1 00:00:00,240 --> 00:00:04,040 All right, we are recording again in the studio after a 2 00:00:04,040 --> 00:00:06,440 while. Yeah, I don't know if we know 3 00:00:06,440 --> 00:00:07,840 how to do it anymore. Yeah. 4 00:00:08,360 --> 00:00:12,280 It took us a while to just set up the the studio again because 5 00:00:12,280 --> 00:00:16,120 guys, I don't know which episode is but over 50 I guess. 6 00:00:16,280 --> 00:00:20,640 Yeah, it's, I think we are about to celebrate our first year 7 00:00:20,640 --> 00:00:23,720 actually, it's something we can. Something like that. 8 00:00:23,760 --> 00:00:26,320 Yeah. That's why today's subject is 9 00:00:26,320 --> 00:00:30,840 actually formal wear, so mainly tuxedo, but we're going to cover 10 00:00:30,840 --> 00:00:35,280 also some tail coats. How it all started and why 11 00:00:35,280 --> 00:00:38,440 tuxedo is not even it wasn't considered a formal wear. 12 00:00:38,800 --> 00:00:40,040 That's funny. Yeah, yeah. 13 00:00:40,040 --> 00:00:42,520 But it's actually a huge topic, I would say. 14 00:00:42,640 --> 00:00:47,600 And we can discuss a bit about this, but there's not so many 15 00:00:47,960 --> 00:00:52,760 formal wear that some most of the men are meant to wear, and 16 00:00:52,760 --> 00:00:54,480 tuxedo might be one of them actually. 17 00:00:54,480 --> 00:00:57,360 Yeah, a lot of guys are wearing tuxedo on their weddings. 18 00:00:57,480 --> 00:00:59,880 I was one of them. Yeah, but I will. 19 00:00:59,880 --> 00:01:02,960 I have something to say. Why? 20 00:01:04,200 --> 00:01:05,440 Where? When? 21 00:01:05,720 --> 00:01:09,080 Where to wear a tuxedo? Where to wear a white tie? 22 00:01:09,080 --> 00:01:13,200 Black tie. A pretty wide subject, actually. 23 00:01:13,280 --> 00:01:17,760 Yeah, yeah, there's a lot of things to cover, but yeah, not 24 00:01:17,760 --> 00:01:21,760 just before jumping into it. I just wanted to. 5 minutes 25 00:01:22,000 --> 00:01:25,360 about our. But also take a minute just to 26 00:01:25,360 --> 00:01:29,200 to because it's a big deal. We have been here for a year and 27 00:01:29,200 --> 00:01:32,160 I think it's the way I feel about it. 28 00:01:32,160 --> 00:01:35,920 I mean, we have been, it's been a lot of work from our side from 29 00:01:36,360 --> 00:01:38,960 the beginning and. From the beginning. 30 00:01:38,960 --> 00:01:44,040 The beginning I had, yeah, it's true that we have done some kind 31 00:01:44,040 --> 00:01:47,400 of retrospectives not so long ago when we're showing how, how 32 00:01:47,400 --> 00:01:49,840 it started, but it's really the the first year that it's. 33 00:01:49,840 --> 00:01:54,000 Worth talking about back to 2016 and guys, it's not that old but 34 00:01:54,360 --> 00:01:54,720 but. Yeah. 35 00:01:54,720 --> 00:01:57,960 For us, it it's, we still look the same, Yeah. 36 00:01:58,160 --> 00:02:02,240 No, we, we, we started in the apartment with audio and here 37 00:02:02,240 --> 00:02:04,680 with with the studio with full setup. 38 00:02:04,920 --> 00:02:08,000 Yeah, we have pictures. We guys, we have a lot of reels. 39 00:02:08,000 --> 00:02:11,720 So if you just don't follow us on Instagram, search yourself 40 00:02:11,720 --> 00:02:14,560 under Score Podcast and Instagram and there you can see 41 00:02:14,560 --> 00:02:17,720 a lot of interviews, interesting interviews from PT Warmer. 42 00:02:17,720 --> 00:02:19,880 Exclusive content. PT warmer, we were at the 43 00:02:19,960 --> 00:02:23,280 menswear fair, not so far away. I think one month. 44 00:02:24,000 --> 00:02:27,920 No, it's, it was, it's January. We're recording it in January 45 00:02:27,920 --> 00:02:31,160 2026, the longest January in the whole world. 46 00:02:31,600 --> 00:02:36,480 But guys, some interesting interviews and there are still 47 00:02:36,480 --> 00:02:40,080 upcoming interviews. We have a lot, loads of 48 00:02:40,080 --> 00:02:43,840 interviews. So our editors, they have full 49 00:02:43,840 --> 00:02:47,320 hands of work. They're working even today. 50 00:02:47,320 --> 00:02:52,000 Even one of our editor, his computer just just broke. 51 00:02:52,000 --> 00:02:53,440 Yeah. Too much editing. 52 00:02:54,320 --> 00:02:56,320 So. Yeah, yeah, there's a lot of 53 00:02:56,320 --> 00:03:00,160 things coming. But I mean, All in all for one 54 00:03:00,160 --> 00:03:05,400 year, I must say if we we take a look back, we have been, I mean, 55 00:03:05,400 --> 00:03:07,840 we have put together a fantastic studio. 56 00:03:08,680 --> 00:03:12,360 I, I think I we can be a bit cocky and say that we probably 57 00:03:12,360 --> 00:03:16,080 have the best studio when it comes to podcast recording. 58 00:03:16,400 --> 00:03:21,400 I mean for our niche at least. And guys, when I wanted to start 59 00:03:21,400 --> 00:03:23,120 this podcast, it was my second podcast. 60 00:03:23,120 --> 00:03:25,960 The first one was in Polish. You can still listen to to to 61 00:03:25,960 --> 00:03:28,920 the podcast Pankron Austello if you're Polish or if you're not 62 00:03:28,920 --> 00:03:33,240 polishing, if you speak Polish, DMEY, you're speaking Polish if 63 00:03:33,240 --> 00:03:37,840 you're not Polish. But the idea was to have the 64 00:03:37,840 --> 00:03:40,440 best menswear podcast in the world. 65 00:03:41,640 --> 00:03:45,240 And I think we're going there and that's why the formal wear 66 00:03:45,240 --> 00:03:49,640 because on at PT we actually had some opportunity to wear formal 67 00:03:49,640 --> 00:03:51,280 wear. I didn't have my tuxedo. 68 00:03:51,320 --> 00:03:52,760 I didn't arrive on time. But I still. 69 00:03:52,760 --> 00:03:54,760 But you had to get some dinner jacket. 70 00:03:54,760 --> 00:03:58,280 Yeah, exactly. And fun fact, you know in UK you 71 00:03:58,280 --> 00:04:00,480 call tuxedo smoking a dinner jacket actually. 72 00:04:00,480 --> 00:04:03,120 And I always were like OK, dinner jacket, but what about 73 00:04:03,200 --> 00:04:04,600 the pants? The trousers. 74 00:04:04,760 --> 00:04:08,840 Yeah, exactly. It's a smoking versus tuxedo. 75 00:04:08,840 --> 00:04:13,960 It's just European versus US way of calling it. 76 00:04:14,240 --> 00:04:17,120 But yeah, we have done a great journey. 77 00:04:17,120 --> 00:04:20,920 We have really established the flow and we have, I mean we are 78 00:04:20,920 --> 00:04:25,240 super used to this exercise not together and we really have our 79 00:04:25,240 --> 00:04:28,000 trademark, you know, we stick out. 80 00:04:28,000 --> 00:04:31,000 So that's been a lot of work during the first year and I 81 00:04:31,000 --> 00:04:34,640 think that the second year will just be peaking going forward. 82 00:04:35,480 --> 00:04:40,080 And guys, it's also your job to just share our podcast, to share 83 00:04:40,080 --> 00:04:45,440 if you have somebody that want to elevate his style. 84 00:04:45,440 --> 00:04:48,280 Yeah, yeah, just send the podcast to him and just comment 85 00:04:48,280 --> 00:04:50,440 and we read all the comments. Yeah, we do. 86 00:04:50,440 --> 00:04:52,800 And also we, we again, we say that all the time, but that's 87 00:04:52,800 --> 00:04:54,640 true. We meet a lot of our people that 88 00:04:54,640 --> 00:04:56,720 are listening to us and they're like, yeah, I'm listening to 89 00:04:56,720 --> 00:04:58,920 everything and like, well, drop a comment like. 90 00:04:58,920 --> 00:05:02,240 A comment. I know you know, Mr. Glass, your 91 00:05:02,240 --> 00:05:05,600 thank you for the comments. Ingrid Swanson as well. 92 00:05:05,600 --> 00:05:09,520 Yeah. And yeah, I didn't reply, but I 93 00:05:09,560 --> 00:05:13,680 read the the message. Those pictures will be developed 94 00:05:13,680 --> 00:05:17,680 from the analog camera. I just need to fill the whole 95 00:05:17,680 --> 00:05:20,760 film with pictures. I I have the camera with me. 96 00:05:20,760 --> 00:05:25,640 It's it wasn't fake. No, no, no, pictures are fake. 97 00:05:25,760 --> 00:05:29,120 The The thing is, we have so much content all together. 98 00:05:29,120 --> 00:05:33,040 Interviews, pictures, podcast, Analog pictures. 99 00:05:33,400 --> 00:05:36,600 But wait, 5 minutes just passed. We need to start. 100 00:05:36,720 --> 00:05:37,120 The Yeah. OK. 101 00:05:37,160 --> 00:05:40,240 Well, just to say that we we always realize that we have so 102 00:05:40,240 --> 00:05:43,680 much that we cannot publish, but we do as much as we can on this. 103 00:05:43,680 --> 00:05:45,440 You mean the naked pictures from Pity? 104 00:05:46,000 --> 00:05:48,240 You said that there were enough rumours like this. 105 00:05:50,280 --> 00:05:53,560 All right, let's start. Let's, let's talk about Tuxedo. 106 00:05:53,560 --> 00:05:54,360 Let's. Be formal. 107 00:05:54,360 --> 00:05:58,160 I, I mean, OK, we, we, we said that we're going to talk about 108 00:05:58,160 --> 00:06:01,560 formal wear. So I mean, the tuxedo men will 109 00:06:01,560 --> 00:06:06,800 not gonna wear white tie long coat in their life because it's, 110 00:06:07,960 --> 00:06:12,240 it's reserved for some royal celebrities, very formal. 111 00:06:13,000 --> 00:06:18,040 So nobody will wear a long coat. So we're gonna just focus on the 112 00:06:18,040 --> 00:06:21,200 tuxedo, which is black tie. It's not guys. 113 00:06:21,400 --> 00:06:23,600 It's not a tie like I'm wearing like that. 114 00:06:23,600 --> 00:06:28,640 It's a black bow tie. I've seen so many tuxedos on the 115 00:06:28,640 --> 00:06:33,480 red carpets on Love is Blind. Brazilian Love is Blind. 116 00:06:33,480 --> 00:06:35,600 Also. Come on. 117 00:06:35,600 --> 00:06:39,400 Tuxedo with with a long with a long tie? 118 00:06:39,640 --> 00:06:42,800 No, it's black bow tie. Yeah, yeah. 119 00:06:43,160 --> 00:06:47,040 So, yeah, first of all, white tie means that the bow tie is 120 00:06:47,040 --> 00:06:48,960 white. You also have a waistcoat that 121 00:06:48,960 --> 00:06:51,880 is white, and you have a long jacket, and that's white tie, 122 00:06:51,880 --> 00:06:54,760 that long coat exactly, almost no one is wearing anymore. 123 00:06:55,040 --> 00:06:57,200 But then you have the black tie, which is the most common. 124 00:06:57,200 --> 00:07:01,040 So black bow tie, the usual black. 125 00:07:01,280 --> 00:07:07,360 Black or very dark midnight blue Navy jacket and trousers. 126 00:07:07,440 --> 00:07:11,240 And all the details that are made of satin finish or it can 127 00:07:11,240 --> 00:07:13,520 be different finish. We we will break that down. 128 00:07:13,880 --> 00:07:16,320 But where it all started? Actually, it started like 129 00:07:17,120 --> 00:07:21,240 everything in UK, but it got popularized in USA. 130 00:07:22,200 --> 00:07:27,080 Yeah. So in the 1000 eighties, it was, 131 00:07:28,240 --> 00:07:33,560 it was designed for Prince of Wales, Edward the 7th. 132 00:07:33,600 --> 00:07:36,240 OK, yeah, exactly. And he thought that the long 133 00:07:36,240 --> 00:07:39,160 coats are so uncomfortable, so he wanted to have some more 134 00:07:39,160 --> 00:07:43,720 casual imagine and and his tailor created a shorter, more 135 00:07:43,720 --> 00:07:46,280 comfortable evening jacket to wear at private dinners. 136 00:07:46,280 --> 00:07:49,680 OK. And then somebody, somebody from 137 00:07:49,680 --> 00:07:55,320 USA just seen it and took to USA, to New York, to Tuxedo 138 00:07:55,320 --> 00:07:57,760 Club. That's why it's called Tuxedo in 139 00:07:57,760 --> 00:07:58,680 USA. Yeah. 140 00:07:59,320 --> 00:08:02,960 Tuxedo Park, a wealthy enclave, like a gentlemen's club in New 141 00:08:02,960 --> 00:08:04,440 York. So it all started there. 142 00:08:04,440 --> 00:08:08,680 So it was shorter than long coats, more relaxed, but still 143 00:08:08,680 --> 00:08:11,520 elegant, still black. And it's black or midnight blue 144 00:08:11,520 --> 00:08:16,960 because, guys, it was designed to wear in fake light, an 145 00:08:16,960 --> 00:08:19,720 artificial light. And it was gas light. 146 00:08:20,160 --> 00:08:24,840 It's not gas lighting, but in gas light so that the fabric 147 00:08:24,840 --> 00:08:28,200 looks good. So guys, it's an evening wear. 148 00:08:28,240 --> 00:08:32,080 Don't wear a tuxedo on your wedding if the wedding isn't 149 00:08:32,200 --> 00:08:34,480 Yeah. And yeah, yeah, yeah. 150 00:08:34,799 --> 00:08:40,919 So I I had on my first wedding and it was at six so it's OK I'm 151 00:08:40,960 --> 00:08:42,720 safe. But The thing is, yeah. 152 00:08:42,720 --> 00:08:46,320 So they are for me to see the way I see that is that. 153 00:08:46,320 --> 00:08:48,280 Yeah. The purpose, the first purpose 154 00:08:48,280 --> 00:08:51,560 is, first of all, to blend in. All the men should look the 155 00:08:51,560 --> 00:08:52,560 same. It's a uniform. 156 00:08:52,880 --> 00:08:55,240 Yeah. And the second purpose is also 157 00:08:55,440 --> 00:08:59,080 to make the woman shine because the women then will wear a much 158 00:08:59,080 --> 00:09:01,120 more extravagant color in their dresses. 159 00:09:01,120 --> 00:09:03,800 So it's a, it's a gentleman way of. 160 00:09:04,720 --> 00:09:06,760 To be in the background. Exactly, to put yourself in the 161 00:09:06,760 --> 00:09:10,440 back and let the other shine and in this case, the ladies that 162 00:09:10,960 --> 00:09:16,120 text company with so it's that's the reason why usually by 163 00:09:16,120 --> 00:09:19,680 default have very dark colors. But then we'll talk about it 164 00:09:19,680 --> 00:09:22,240 later on. There's no lots of pops of 165 00:09:22,240 --> 00:09:24,640 colors coming on, and that's the diner jacket. 166 00:09:24,880 --> 00:09:27,240 And also in the US you call it tuxedo. 167 00:09:27,240 --> 00:09:29,400 In the UK you call it dinner jacket. 168 00:09:29,400 --> 00:09:32,360 You can call it a smoking, but there's also something like 169 00:09:32,360 --> 00:09:38,320 smoking jacket that you take off the jacket that is the same 170 00:09:38,320 --> 00:09:42,520 colour as trousers and you put on the velvet jacket, which is 171 00:09:42,720 --> 00:09:46,320 to smoke in. When gentlemen's went to go and 172 00:09:46,320 --> 00:09:52,320 take a smoke to not smell, to not smell the, the, the 173 00:09:52,320 --> 00:09:57,280 cigarettes or cigars. And then they put on the, the 174 00:09:57,280 --> 00:09:59,680 dinner, the, the tuxedo jacket again. 175 00:09:59,680 --> 00:10:01,880 And it was the full like uniform. 176 00:10:01,880 --> 00:10:03,760 It was just this black or midnight blue. 177 00:10:04,280 --> 00:10:08,480 Yeah, we can actually break down all the elements that compose 178 00:10:08,480 --> 00:10:10,720 the black tie wear. Exactly. 179 00:10:11,240 --> 00:10:15,480 We can start with the jacket. So yeah, quite typically you 180 00:10:15,480 --> 00:10:17,800 need to have something that is quite formal, so your shoulder 181 00:10:17,800 --> 00:10:21,400 will be quite stiff. With a bit of padding you will 182 00:10:21,400 --> 00:10:25,040 have the. Bells will be covered in the 183 00:10:25,040 --> 00:10:26,600 velvet. Absolutely so. 184 00:10:26,640 --> 00:10:31,720 They don't need to be in, for example, white off white jacket 185 00:10:31,720 --> 00:10:35,040 like a tropical tuxedo. Yeah, Yeah, they can be made of 186 00:10:35,040 --> 00:10:38,120 the of the same fabric with diner jacket. 187 00:10:38,120 --> 00:10:40,640 You can play a bit around this, but if you start with the 188 00:10:40,640 --> 00:10:44,480 tuxedo, the lapels are made with a different finish, can be a 189 00:10:44,480 --> 00:10:49,680 silk finish that's we are traditionally not really using 190 00:10:49,680 --> 00:10:52,800 silk anymore. Silk is a very difficult fabric 191 00:10:52,800 --> 00:10:56,320 to to wear. It's quite fragile, it's very 192 00:10:56,320 --> 00:10:58,920 luxurious, but it's, I mean as a. 193 00:10:59,160 --> 00:11:02,400 Right now it's usually cotton. Yeah, it's usually cotton or 194 00:11:02,400 --> 00:11:06,480 it's it's a mix, but something that will be more solid, more 195 00:11:06,480 --> 00:11:10,480 durable. It's just shiny. 196 00:11:10,720 --> 00:11:11,920 Yeah, exactly. I. 197 00:11:12,040 --> 00:11:15,360 Think and buttons are also covered covered with the fabric 198 00:11:15,360 --> 00:11:19,120 with the same fabric and the vents yeah, not vents. 199 00:11:19,640 --> 00:11:21,960 The jet pockets. The finish of the jet pockets 200 00:11:22,320 --> 00:11:24,760 are OK. So yeah, jet pockets, that's 201 00:11:24,760 --> 00:11:31,680 also something you don't wear a tuxedo with flaps or like how 202 00:11:31,680 --> 00:11:34,520 you call it juice. I forgot the the patch pockets. 203 00:11:34,520 --> 00:11:36,600 No. And you guys, if you see a 204 00:11:36,680 --> 00:11:41,960 tuxedo with flaps and for example, with single breasted 205 00:11:41,960 --> 00:11:45,560 with two buttons, then you know that it's just a suit tuxedo 206 00:11:45,560 --> 00:11:47,480 suit. So it's something in between. 207 00:11:47,480 --> 00:11:50,240 It's some kind of cancer monster. 208 00:11:51,240 --> 00:11:55,040 And it's just because it's cheaper for for the for the for 209 00:11:55,040 --> 00:11:56,840 the companies. They don't need to have a 210 00:11:56,840 --> 00:12:00,280 different pattern for tuxedo. So they just use the the the 211 00:12:00,280 --> 00:12:02,560 suit. It's very cheap. 212 00:12:02,560 --> 00:12:06,360 You don't go there because the jacket should be if it's single 213 00:12:06,360 --> 00:12:08,960 breasted, it should be just with one button. 214 00:12:09,720 --> 00:12:13,480 Yeah, if it's there's three ways, there's one button, single 215 00:12:13,480 --> 00:12:14,480 breasted. Exactly. 216 00:12:14,600 --> 00:12:20,640 Double breasted. 6 and on two, yeah, or 6 by 1. 217 00:12:20,640 --> 00:12:25,280 So it's like 6 buttons, but you just button the one button. 218 00:12:25,640 --> 00:12:28,880 Of course it also can be 4 at one. 219 00:12:28,880 --> 00:12:32,400 It can be 4 by 2. There's no specific rules, but 220 00:12:32,400 --> 00:12:35,760 it can be double breasted and it can be shawl lapel. 221 00:12:35,880 --> 00:12:40,440 It's also single breasted shawl lapel the lapels and if it's 222 00:12:40,440 --> 00:12:43,560 single breasted then it needs to be peak lapel. 223 00:12:43,560 --> 00:12:47,320 So the so the gorge is closed. It's not because it's formal. 224 00:12:47,480 --> 00:12:52,760 Notch lapel the gorge when it's open it's it's considered less 225 00:12:52,760 --> 00:12:55,960 formal so it's peak lapel. Single breasted 1 button. 226 00:12:56,160 --> 00:12:59,240 When it's double breasted then it needs to be peak lapel. 227 00:12:59,240 --> 00:13:02,400 Yeah, and I mentioned the Shaw lapel. 228 00:13:02,480 --> 00:13:06,040 I I don't really think a shawl lapel on tuxedo looks really 229 00:13:06,040 --> 00:13:08,040 nice. It can look good on the diner 230 00:13:08,040 --> 00:13:11,480 jacket of course, but outside of diner jacket I think a tuxedo 231 00:13:11,480 --> 00:13:13,680 with shawl lapels. Not a huge fan of that. 232 00:13:14,360 --> 00:13:20,040 But you can also have the wider shawl color when the bottom of 233 00:13:20,040 --> 00:13:22,520 the shawl is. Yeah, it's huge. 234 00:13:22,520 --> 00:13:24,240 But it looks better on the diner jacket now. 235 00:13:24,600 --> 00:13:29,560 I mean, you know, the diner jacket is it's, I like it. 236 00:13:29,560 --> 00:13:32,880 I that's my next. Yeah. 237 00:13:32,880 --> 00:13:37,040 But you already have traditional 1 so then maybe you can explore 238 00:13:37,040 --> 00:13:38,640 on something. A lot of people, they start with 239 00:13:38,640 --> 00:13:42,280 the shawl lapel on tuxedo like. I mean, if it's shawl lapel, I 240 00:13:42,280 --> 00:13:45,200 think it needs to be thicker. Yeah, yeah, because when it's 241 00:13:45,200 --> 00:13:47,960 very thin, then it's just too feminine a bit. 242 00:13:47,960 --> 00:13:50,600 So you have a different finish. We we talked about it. 243 00:13:50,600 --> 00:13:53,160 So the finish on your lapels are going to be the same on the jet 244 00:13:53,160 --> 00:13:58,760 pockets, also on the bottoms. And finally on the bow tie there 245 00:13:58,760 --> 00:14:02,320 are different finish. Some are grow grain slash 246 00:14:02,560 --> 00:14:05,240 autonom, so they have a bit more texture, they're a bit more torn 247 00:14:05,240 --> 00:14:07,560 down, a bit more matte. And then you have the 248 00:14:07,800 --> 00:14:11,440 traditional satin finish, which personally is my favorite I 249 00:14:11,440 --> 00:14:13,440 think is the. And it's also can be velvet, but 250 00:14:13,440 --> 00:14:16,200 then the bow tie is thicker. Yeah. 251 00:14:16,200 --> 00:14:19,440 So you, you cannot have, for example, the knot. 252 00:14:19,840 --> 00:14:23,960 It will be very bigger. And shout out to LA Boutique 253 00:14:23,960 --> 00:14:24,600 Bow. Tie. 254 00:14:24,800 --> 00:14:28,320 Bow tie, Yeah. Who sells? 255 00:14:28,400 --> 00:14:32,760 I think it's one of the, I don't know how many companies actually 256 00:14:32,760 --> 00:14:35,800 sell bespoke or bow ties like that. 257 00:14:35,800 --> 00:14:38,560 If you if you're looking for different bow ties, if you want 258 00:14:38,560 --> 00:14:43,320 to stick out, La Boutique. A boutique bow tie is doing a 259 00:14:43,320 --> 00:14:47,160 fantastic job. He has his own shapes and he's. 260 00:14:47,160 --> 00:14:48,680 Also Michael. Yeah. 261 00:14:49,240 --> 00:14:52,120 Yeah, Michelle. Michelle exactly. 262 00:14:52,360 --> 00:14:55,920 He's French, actually, he's from the same area where is my 263 00:14:55,920 --> 00:14:59,280 family, so we always have a good time talking about that. 264 00:14:59,280 --> 00:15:03,720 He lives in England and in Oslo, so we we talk French, yeah. 265 00:15:04,200 --> 00:15:07,360 Of course. But but yeah, so that's for the 266 00:15:07,360 --> 00:15:09,800 jacket. Then you have the trousers, all 267 00:15:09,800 --> 00:15:11,160 those things, they are quite ruled on. 268 00:15:11,160 --> 00:15:13,400 You cannot really go outside of the box to be honest. 269 00:15:13,640 --> 00:15:18,280 I mean you shouldn't have any pleats, it should be flat. 270 00:15:18,680 --> 00:15:20,280 Oh, really? Yeah, I have one plate. 271 00:15:20,600 --> 00:15:23,240 Yeah, I do have one plate. Also, yeah it it should be flat. 272 00:15:23,520 --> 00:15:26,520 It shouldn't have visible button. 273 00:15:26,960 --> 00:15:31,160 Yeah it should be also flat. I mean it should be the simplest 274 00:15:31,360 --> 00:15:32,080 that it. Can be. 275 00:15:32,080 --> 00:15:33,680 Yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah. No, I get that. 276 00:15:33,800 --> 00:15:37,160 That's no side adjusters. I have side adjusters, but you 277 00:15:37,160 --> 00:15:38,600 cannot see them. Yeah, exactly. 278 00:15:38,600 --> 00:15:41,880 No, no belt. No belt loops. 279 00:15:42,480 --> 00:15:45,360 It's good to know, but you know you are teaching me some stuff 280 00:15:45,360 --> 00:15:48,080 here because I didn't know about the plits for example. 281 00:15:48,800 --> 00:15:52,120 I know it needs to be as minimalistic as possible. 282 00:15:52,120 --> 00:15:54,440 You would never have a turn up for example. 283 00:15:54,880 --> 00:15:59,040 And also for the purpose that you have the the Saturn exactly 284 00:15:59,320 --> 00:16:01,480 on the side that also matching with your. 285 00:16:01,600 --> 00:16:04,840 It's called Gallon, gallon, exactly gallon. 286 00:16:05,560 --> 00:16:09,160 Which is the same and. It visually lengthens the leg, 287 00:16:09,440 --> 00:16:11,760 yeah, So it's good for you all short kings. 288 00:16:12,800 --> 00:16:15,200 Exactly. But yeah, that's true that. 289 00:16:15,360 --> 00:16:18,720 I mean, you can go slightly outside of the box. 290 00:16:18,720 --> 00:16:20,680 I mean, if you have plates, who cares, you know? 291 00:16:21,080 --> 00:16:24,520 You cannot see those plates because because you wear a 292 00:16:24,520 --> 00:16:26,200 camera band. Exactly. 293 00:16:26,280 --> 00:16:27,880 I think it's nicer with the camera band. 294 00:16:28,280 --> 00:16:30,560 You know, you know, guys, what is the in in. 295 00:16:30,680 --> 00:16:34,160 In Poland we actually call it is Spanish belt. 296 00:16:35,040 --> 00:16:38,600 And you know those pleats on camel band, they should be worn 297 00:16:39,480 --> 00:16:40,520 upwards. Yeah. 298 00:16:40,720 --> 00:16:42,880 No, not downwards. You know why? 299 00:16:42,880 --> 00:16:47,640 Because you need to just collect all the crumbs if you eat bread. 300 00:16:48,480 --> 00:16:49,760 No, I'm kidding. I don't know. 301 00:16:49,760 --> 00:16:52,680 I I should know why for? A second I was about to say for 302 00:16:52,680 --> 00:16:55,960 real. Now I I maybe if you if you if 303 00:16:56,000 --> 00:17:00,000 if some coins fell so you can grab them, but it's not this 304 00:17:00,000 --> 00:17:02,680 part of the word that actually would grab coins. 305 00:17:03,120 --> 00:17:06,880 Funny with the Spanish because you know the Torrero. 306 00:17:07,000 --> 00:17:09,079 I think it's because of torreados, yeah. 307 00:17:09,240 --> 00:17:12,400 But torreados are probably also wearing this because it's a 308 00:17:12,400 --> 00:17:15,760 traditional suit or traditional costume that they are wearing, 309 00:17:15,760 --> 00:17:17,240 so it's probably coming from somewhere. 310 00:17:17,240 --> 00:17:18,960 Else But you know why you wear a camera band? 311 00:17:18,960 --> 00:17:22,119 You know, You know what is the triangle of sadness in tuxedo? 312 00:17:22,680 --> 00:17:24,480 Not in tuxedo, I know it in the face, but. 313 00:17:25,160 --> 00:17:27,480 No, but it's it's the. Yeah, yeah, yeah. 314 00:17:27,560 --> 00:17:30,680 It's this white gap when you have a when you have a single 315 00:17:30,680 --> 00:17:32,560 breasted jacket. I said I don't know. 316 00:17:32,560 --> 00:17:34,920 I came up with this triangle of sadness. 317 00:17:35,400 --> 00:17:36,280 Really. I said that. 318 00:17:36,600 --> 00:17:38,920 Oh yeah, but. It's my trademark. 319 00:17:38,920 --> 00:17:43,080 It's it's just the gap when you see the shirt, the white shirt 320 00:17:43,360 --> 00:17:48,320 and everything is black and you see the opening of the jacket 321 00:17:48,320 --> 00:17:53,400 below the button and it's white. It's it's it looks very bad. 322 00:17:53,960 --> 00:17:59,640 And I see it in Hollywood and the people are just wearing even 323 00:17:59,640 --> 00:18:03,960 low waisted trousers. And also camera band is to cover 324 00:18:03,960 --> 00:18:06,320 your shirt. Because when you sit, you have 325 00:18:06,320 --> 00:18:07,840 Aussie. I look sloppy. 326 00:18:07,840 --> 00:18:11,640 Somebody actually commented that I look sloppy, that my tie looks 327 00:18:11,640 --> 00:18:13,240 sloppy. Guys, I'm sitting and the sofa, 328 00:18:14,200 --> 00:18:18,280 the sofa is not so comfortable. And you know, you wear a suit, 329 00:18:18,480 --> 00:18:21,200 you live, you move. And that's what is nice. 330 00:18:21,200 --> 00:18:24,960 And I'm not gonna sit like I'm. I have some kind of stick in my 331 00:18:24,960 --> 00:18:25,720 behind. Yeah. 332 00:18:25,920 --> 00:18:28,680 Yeah, but some people don't understand what it is to wear 333 00:18:28,680 --> 00:18:30,960 suits. It's not to be stiff and it's. 334 00:18:30,960 --> 00:18:32,640 Not relaxed. Exactly. 335 00:18:32,640 --> 00:18:36,600 You can be looking very good and yeah, your garments are gonna 336 00:18:36,600 --> 00:18:38,560 leave, they're gonna crease, you're gonna, it's not gonna 337 00:18:38,560 --> 00:18:39,560 look perfect. And that's. 338 00:18:39,560 --> 00:18:41,320 Felt offended. I'm I'm mad now. 339 00:18:42,320 --> 00:18:44,360 Really, I think that those people, they look too much 340 00:18:44,480 --> 00:18:47,920 Instagram pictures and. Yeah, pictures even. 341 00:18:48,440 --> 00:18:52,000 Also, that's not the reality if you learn Garmin because people 342 00:18:52,000 --> 00:18:55,000 are not wearing suits anymore so they only see suits through 343 00:18:55,000 --> 00:18:57,960 pictures. So they see very top notch 344 00:18:58,280 --> 00:18:59,440 things and they see. Oh, there's a way. 345 00:18:59,440 --> 00:19:02,560 You know why? Also, because most of suits are 346 00:19:02,560 --> 00:19:05,920 just too tight and people actually wearing those tight 347 00:19:05,920 --> 00:19:09,840 suits, they need to stand like a soldier because they cannot sit. 348 00:19:09,840 --> 00:19:11,440 It's gonna crack. It's gonna crack. 349 00:19:11,440 --> 00:19:14,760 It's gonna be uncomfortable. They gonna sweat in those 350 00:19:14,760 --> 00:19:16,000 polyester suits. OK. 351 00:19:16,000 --> 00:19:18,440 But before jumping onto the Hollywood guys because we have a 352 00:19:18,440 --> 00:19:21,760 few stuff to say, yeah, let's finish the the overall look. 353 00:19:21,800 --> 00:19:24,640 So you have. Braces also suspenders. 354 00:19:24,680 --> 00:19:26,560 Yeah, braces. For me it's a top. 355 00:19:26,720 --> 00:19:29,440 I think you should wear braces every time you have the 356 00:19:29,440 --> 00:19:32,120 opportunity. It's so much nicer, it makes 357 00:19:32,120 --> 00:19:33,560 your trousers stand in a nice way. 358 00:19:33,560 --> 00:19:37,360 For me it helps me also because my hip are not completely equal. 359 00:19:37,600 --> 00:19:38,800 You know what? My hip. 360 00:19:39,560 --> 00:19:41,720 What did I? Say, oh this guy, he knows how 361 00:19:41,720 --> 00:19:47,480 to say age. My hip, yeah, I'm trying. 362 00:19:47,480 --> 00:19:52,240 Sometimes my French accent is stepping over, so my hips are 363 00:19:52,240 --> 00:19:55,200 not completely equal. So for me, I have something a 364 00:19:55,200 --> 00:19:58,040 bit looser and I have suspenders. 365 00:19:58,040 --> 00:20:00,760 Makes my trousers fit better. It's more comfortable because I 366 00:20:00,760 --> 00:20:03,200 can have a bit larger waist also. 367 00:20:03,640 --> 00:20:05,400 It's just nicer. It's different. 368 00:20:05,520 --> 00:20:08,720 Yeah, but even like wearing OK, we're not talking about braces. 369 00:20:08,720 --> 00:20:12,280 Maybe that could be another episode, but for me it's nice 370 00:20:12,280 --> 00:20:15,320 accessory about Yeah. Yeah, it's also nice accessory. 371 00:20:15,320 --> 00:20:20,000 And you can wear a shirt like some other shirt without braces, 372 00:20:20,000 --> 00:20:22,360 because imagine western shirt with braces, no? 373 00:20:22,720 --> 00:20:25,080 No, yeah, exactly. It needs to go also with the 374 00:20:26,520 --> 00:20:28,560 with all outfit. It needs to make sense, I would 375 00:20:28,560 --> 00:20:30,720 say. But yeah, so the the shirt. 376 00:20:30,840 --> 00:20:34,640 And those braces also, they need to be white and it's like white 377 00:20:34,640 --> 00:20:38,160 motor I think it's called. The pattern. 378 00:20:38,520 --> 00:20:40,200 Exactly. It's like that. 379 00:20:40,200 --> 00:20:42,520 Like James Bond? Yeah, exactly. 380 00:20:42,600 --> 00:20:45,440 Yeah, yeah. There are specific braces for 381 00:20:45,600 --> 00:20:48,080 for this type of of wear, which has. 382 00:20:48,520 --> 00:20:51,120 There's a little bit of pattern in there. 383 00:20:51,560 --> 00:20:53,640 There's a bit of luster. And you know what? 384 00:20:54,920 --> 00:20:56,840 I'm reading just our bullet points. 385 00:20:57,520 --> 00:21:01,560 And actually, I was right that the camera bands should catch 386 00:21:01,560 --> 00:21:02,840 bread crumbs. Really. 387 00:21:03,760 --> 00:21:07,720 All the dining tradition, That's funny. 388 00:21:08,040 --> 00:21:10,720 So when we make them. You know, gentlemen's, they're 389 00:21:10,720 --> 00:21:14,040 just grabbing the bread crumbs in camera bands to to. 390 00:21:15,200 --> 00:21:17,920 Boys will be boys, so. So, so, so the cleaners, they 391 00:21:17,920 --> 00:21:22,560 don't need to clean that much or maybe because not to waste food. 392 00:21:24,080 --> 00:21:26,720 Not that I mean if you are wearing a tuxedo, usually you 393 00:21:26,760 --> 00:21:28,440 are. You're not going home and 394 00:21:28,920 --> 00:21:32,160 catching the last crumps. That was a nice dinner, but 395 00:21:32,160 --> 00:21:35,040 didn't have enough back then. Yeah, I don't know, but it's 396 00:21:35,040 --> 00:21:38,760 it's just funny that I I was just looking and sorry, sorry. 397 00:21:38,760 --> 00:21:40,960 I've you were talking. That's actually quite 398 00:21:40,960 --> 00:21:42,520 ridiculous. Yeah, it's ridiculous. 399 00:21:42,520 --> 00:21:47,520 But but yeah, the tuxedo shirt. So the tuxedo shirt should be. 400 00:21:47,720 --> 00:21:51,640 It's quite specific, so you have a contrasted chest. 401 00:21:52,120 --> 00:21:55,040 I mean, it's just the the the visible part of the shirt. 402 00:21:55,360 --> 00:21:57,880 So other part of the shirts are not so important. 403 00:21:57,880 --> 00:22:01,440 So it can it it can be made, they can be made from a cheaper 404 00:22:01,440 --> 00:22:03,720 multi fabric. Yeah, they can, yeah. 405 00:22:03,880 --> 00:22:06,760 And because those pleats for example, if you have pleated or 406 00:22:06,760 --> 00:22:07,800 Piquet. Yeah. 407 00:22:08,000 --> 00:22:10,800 Yeah, exactly. It's more it's more expensive 408 00:22:10,800 --> 00:22:14,880 and it's more festive. And so it's just more expensive. 409 00:22:15,480 --> 00:22:18,200 Yeah, but honestly, it's quite rare. 410 00:22:18,440 --> 00:22:22,760 I would shy away from any brands that are making a cheaper fabric 411 00:22:22,760 --> 00:22:25,200 or a different fabric for the rest of the garment than the 412 00:22:25,200 --> 00:22:28,120 whole shirt because nowadays it's not really a good sign. 413 00:22:28,320 --> 00:22:31,560 Yeah, maybe 100 years ago. But it is. 414 00:22:31,720 --> 00:22:33,880 It's how it how it is even right now. 415 00:22:33,880 --> 00:22:36,400 It's the tradition. Yeah, but because the fabric. 416 00:22:36,400 --> 00:22:38,720 Fabric, but the fabric is also very thick. 417 00:22:39,200 --> 00:22:42,200 Here, Yeah, it is so if. If you have the same fabric on, 418 00:22:42,200 --> 00:22:44,680 on sleeves, it's it's, it's gonna, it's not gonna be 419 00:22:44,680 --> 00:22:46,720 comfortable. And if you have those pleats, 420 00:22:46,720 --> 00:22:49,520 for example, I have a shirt with pleats. 421 00:22:49,720 --> 00:22:54,280 Yeah, the way I've, I mean, I've seen it, yeah, the construction, 422 00:22:54,280 --> 00:22:57,840 it's, it's doubled here. You have the, it's made like a 423 00:22:57,840 --> 00:23:00,920 regular shirt and then above it you have another fabric. 424 00:23:00,920 --> 00:23:06,240 So that's the way I've seen it. And and the fabric is. 425 00:23:06,640 --> 00:23:09,560 It's more the way it's splitted unless. 426 00:23:09,560 --> 00:23:11,760 It can be pleated, but it doesn't need to be. 427 00:23:11,760 --> 00:23:14,560 It can be also thick Piquet. Yeah. 428 00:23:14,560 --> 00:23:16,480 Piquet, Yeah, Yeah, exactly. Which is very specific. 429 00:23:16,480 --> 00:23:18,960 It's a bit more old school, I think, with Piquet, which is 430 00:23:18,960 --> 00:23:21,600 quite cool. But yeah, I mean, yeah. 431 00:23:22,320 --> 00:23:25,040 Anyways, it can be made with different fabric cufflinks. 432 00:23:26,040 --> 00:23:28,640 It's an obligation, Yeah. French, French French Cuffs. 433 00:23:28,800 --> 00:23:32,840 Cuffs. Yeah, double round, much better. 434 00:23:32,840 --> 00:23:35,320 So double round French cuffs, those are just different name 435 00:23:35,320 --> 00:23:38,280 for the same thing and the colour and the color. 436 00:23:38,280 --> 00:23:42,040 Classical it can be the the tuxedo color which is like. 437 00:23:42,040 --> 00:23:44,280 Broken flying. I don't like it. 438 00:23:44,640 --> 00:23:45,520 You don't. No, I don't. 439 00:23:45,520 --> 00:23:48,200 You know that that's my outfit. I I purchase it. 440 00:23:48,200 --> 00:23:49,360 I I wanted to. I like the. 441 00:23:49,360 --> 00:23:54,600 More the more traditional, the regular, just longer, longer, 442 00:23:56,440 --> 00:23:59,040 longer color. French or canned color? 443 00:23:59,080 --> 00:24:00,320 A bit longer exactly. They were. 444 00:24:00,320 --> 00:24:01,800 And also buttons. Yeah. 445 00:24:01,840 --> 00:24:04,840 You eat the you. You eat those hot stud stud 446 00:24:04,840 --> 00:24:11,560 buttons like jewelry buttons or you have covered buttons, Yeah. 447 00:24:12,360 --> 00:24:15,800 I have seen some with so traditionally you would have 448 00:24:15,800 --> 00:24:18,760 them black, but I've seen some with the silver. 449 00:24:19,000 --> 00:24:20,720 Exactly. I have seen some with the also 450 00:24:20,720 --> 00:24:22,840 mother of pearls. They look amazing. 451 00:24:22,840 --> 00:24:25,080 It's very beautiful actually, so. 452 00:24:25,560 --> 00:24:27,880 You know what I've seen actually Snap buttons. 453 00:24:28,800 --> 00:24:31,480 They look like stud stud buttons but it's. 454 00:24:31,640 --> 00:24:33,320 It would work. It's a bit of a trick. 455 00:24:33,400 --> 00:24:35,120 Yeah, it is a trick, but it looks good. 456 00:24:35,120 --> 00:24:37,680 It looks cool. It's it's a Pearl also. 457 00:24:38,000 --> 00:24:40,320 Yeah. But I mean, we are talking about 458 00:24:40,320 --> 00:24:42,880 things that are quite advanced because for example at Ptuomo 459 00:24:42,920 --> 00:24:46,920 there are parties that are mixing tuxedo waste and things 460 00:24:46,920 --> 00:24:48,200 like this. And then people can be very 461 00:24:48,200 --> 00:24:50,840 creative around those things. But yeah, if we start from the 462 00:24:50,840 --> 00:24:55,440 basic, usually you would have stuck buttons, nice cuff links. 463 00:24:55,440 --> 00:24:58,640 It's the time to I would by default. 464 00:24:58,640 --> 00:25:01,560 And again we are talking about the default settings. 465 00:25:01,560 --> 00:25:04,560 Then we you will see us doing outside of the box and then you 466 00:25:04,600 --> 00:25:06,400 will come at us. You are not doing like you said. 467 00:25:06,640 --> 00:25:08,640 Yeah, because they are. They are the rules and then we 468 00:25:08,640 --> 00:25:12,720 do whatever we want. Yeah, it's it's like how you 469 00:25:12,720 --> 00:25:16,160 call it formal wear. Create creative formal wear. 470 00:25:16,160 --> 00:25:18,240 Yeah, exactly. You can be a bit more creative, 471 00:25:18,240 --> 00:25:20,400 especially when you were used to wear those things and when you 472 00:25:20,400 --> 00:25:22,000 want to express a bit yourself more. 473 00:25:22,360 --> 00:25:26,000 But by default I would say that your cufflinks shouldn't be too 474 00:25:26,000 --> 00:25:30,560 extravagant. So usually you go for black type 475 00:25:30,560 --> 00:25:37,080 of not Pearl, but jewelry, stones with gold or silver and 476 00:25:37,080 --> 00:25:39,200 jewelry. So not too extravagant, not too 477 00:25:39,200 --> 00:25:42,360 much colourful, usually your trying to be just. 478 00:25:42,640 --> 00:25:45,120 I have issues finding the perfect cuffs. 479 00:25:45,440 --> 00:25:47,800 Yeah, because the one that I like, they're actually pure 480 00:25:47,800 --> 00:25:49,880 gold. Yeah, well, I see the issue 481 00:25:49,920 --> 00:25:51,840 then. It's your bank account the 482 00:25:51,840 --> 00:25:53,680 issue. Now it's just when you develop 483 00:25:53,680 --> 00:25:55,920 good style, everything is so expensive. 484 00:25:56,200 --> 00:25:57,880 Yeah, Yeah. No, that's true. 485 00:25:57,880 --> 00:26:01,080 And actually for a tuxedo, you might want to invest because 486 00:26:01,080 --> 00:26:04,200 it's very fancy. So you're like, OK, I won't wear 487 00:26:04,200 --> 00:26:06,800 it too often, so maybe I don't want to invest too much. 488 00:26:07,160 --> 00:26:09,960 But on the moment you will wear it, you really want to look. 489 00:26:09,960 --> 00:26:14,880 And The thing is also so that I would say that tuxedo jacket 490 00:26:15,480 --> 00:26:19,240 should be a bit slightly 1 centimeter to longer. 491 00:26:19,400 --> 00:26:22,200 Yeah, longer. Yeah, it it gives a very classic 492 00:26:22,240 --> 00:26:23,920 look. Yeah, I think it's very nice. 493 00:26:24,120 --> 00:26:26,240 It's nice to have something that is a bit different from a 494 00:26:26,240 --> 00:26:27,440 typical suit. Yeah, that's true. 495 00:26:28,480 --> 00:26:29,840 And we're talking about the bow tie. 496 00:26:31,120 --> 00:26:35,400 I would say it's by far much better to have a bow tie that 497 00:26:35,400 --> 00:26:37,960 you will tie yourself. Yeah, it just looks better. 498 00:26:39,080 --> 00:26:41,440 You need to learn. Even myself, I'm still one time 499 00:26:41,440 --> 00:26:43,160 on two. I struggle a bit because I'm not 500 00:26:43,160 --> 00:26:44,720 doing. But you know that there there 501 00:26:44,720 --> 00:26:48,120 are bow ties, for example, like from La La Boutique. 502 00:26:48,520 --> 00:26:52,440 They are you can tie them by yourself, but they are pretty 503 00:26:52,440 --> 00:26:54,680 tied. But you can also just leave them 504 00:26:54,680 --> 00:26:59,080 tied and you have this lock. Yeah, that's actually pretty 505 00:26:59,080 --> 00:27:00,800 nice. Yeah, most bow ties are like 506 00:27:00,800 --> 00:27:01,880 this. You do it well. 507 00:27:01,880 --> 00:27:04,680 It's just easier. And then you can unwrap it so. 508 00:27:05,160 --> 00:27:08,360 But it still looks great. Yeah, it it looks much better 509 00:27:08,920 --> 00:27:14,040 than those already tied bow tie. So yeah, self tied bow tie will 510 00:27:14,040 --> 00:27:17,520 always be a better choice if you want to look cool at the end of 511 00:27:17,520 --> 00:27:19,960 the party when everyone is drunk and jumping around. 512 00:27:20,200 --> 00:27:22,960 If you untie it, it lies on the on both side. 513 00:27:23,320 --> 00:27:26,000 That's funny, that's cool. That's a gimmick, I must say. 514 00:27:26,360 --> 00:27:29,560 But but yeah, it's just going to look better and why it's because 515 00:27:29,560 --> 00:27:31,640 then you can adjust it. It has a better puff. 516 00:27:31,800 --> 00:27:33,720 It's. Looks more natural. 517 00:27:33,720 --> 00:27:38,840 It doesn't look so so like ground school Gala. 518 00:27:39,000 --> 00:27:40,720 Yeah, exactly. It doesn't look too perfect 519 00:27:40,720 --> 00:27:43,920 because yeah, we're talking about those guys that are saying 520 00:27:43,920 --> 00:27:45,640 that we don't look too perfect all the time. 521 00:27:46,400 --> 00:27:47,680 That's the point. That's the point. 522 00:27:47,680 --> 00:27:50,240 Exactly. That's where elegance strike. 523 00:27:50,480 --> 00:27:54,880 It's when you are not we. You don't look 10, you just use 524 00:27:54,880 --> 00:27:56,120 your clothes. They can be. 525 00:27:56,240 --> 00:27:58,920 Yourself. Look at King Charles. 526 00:27:58,920 --> 00:28:03,720 He's he's so chill in his clothes. 527 00:28:03,720 --> 00:28:06,280 Yeah, exactly. He's even putting his hand in 528 00:28:06,280 --> 00:28:11,160 the pockets and wearing the same suits for 30 years. 529 00:28:11,280 --> 00:28:15,000 Because a suit, what we forget is that suit is a workwear. 530 00:28:15,080 --> 00:28:17,400 So you are supposed to be able to use the pocket. 531 00:28:17,400 --> 00:28:19,280 You are supposed to be able to live in it. 532 00:28:19,280 --> 00:28:23,280 You know, it's it's not something that that should make 533 00:28:23,280 --> 00:28:25,640 you feel uncomfortable. And if you cannot use it full 534 00:28:25,640 --> 00:28:29,640 potentially to its full potential, it means that but you 535 00:28:29,640 --> 00:28:31,960 are stiff. We are talking about the basic 536 00:28:31,960 --> 00:28:33,960 rules here. And of course you can always, 537 00:28:34,240 --> 00:28:36,400 like you said, be creative and go outside of it. 538 00:28:36,680 --> 00:28:38,600 But it. Could also have a purpose also. 539 00:28:38,800 --> 00:28:42,520 Exactly, and it needs to reflect either an event also yourself, 540 00:28:42,760 --> 00:28:45,520 because we are talking about the we are talking about the 541 00:28:46,080 --> 00:28:50,240 foreshadowing, the red carpets and you have all those Hollywood 542 00:28:50,240 --> 00:28:52,640 stars that don't dress by themselves and you can tell 543 00:28:52,640 --> 00:28:54,920 because it. Looks as you know why that's 544 00:28:54,920 --> 00:28:58,440 also funny? Because actually Hollywood 545 00:28:58,440 --> 00:29:04,720 popularized tuxedo. All those from 1930s to 1960s 546 00:29:04,720 --> 00:29:08,920 Hollywood stars, it met those Hollywood stars, made it iconic 547 00:29:09,480 --> 00:29:14,600 in romantic scenes, dance numbers, high society parties, 548 00:29:15,000 --> 00:29:19,080 golden age of Hollywood. Everyone wanted to wear tuxedo 549 00:29:19,080 --> 00:29:22,480 because it just looks so good. The contrast between white and 550 00:29:22,480 --> 00:29:27,720 black that it looks so manly. It just, it was something 551 00:29:27,720 --> 00:29:30,320 different because, you know, suits were something regular 552 00:29:30,320 --> 00:29:34,120 that people wore, but the tuxedos and it was a different 553 00:29:34,120 --> 00:29:35,200 level. Yeah, it was the. 554 00:29:35,320 --> 00:29:36,600 Time for the big. Drama. 555 00:29:36,600 --> 00:29:39,360 Ultimate symbol of class and sense sophistication. 556 00:29:39,360 --> 00:29:40,240 Yeah, Absolutely. Yeah. 557 00:29:40,440 --> 00:29:43,400 Yeah, yeah. And this is the opportunity for 558 00:29:43,400 --> 00:29:48,440 you to to be your best on all points and on all those scenes, 559 00:29:49,040 --> 00:29:51,480 what they were showing, it was like the the pick of a movie 560 00:29:51,480 --> 00:29:53,640 usually. So you have more drama, but also 561 00:29:53,640 --> 00:29:57,160 you have those people that are so refine and refine in their 562 00:29:57,160 --> 00:29:59,040 way of thinking, in their way of behaving. 563 00:29:59,400 --> 00:30:04,400 And again, it's not about being stiff, it's about having. 564 00:30:04,640 --> 00:30:07,560 Frank Sinatra was not stiff in. His absolutely so far from being 565 00:30:07,560 --> 00:30:09,560 stiff. Not Rick Park, just Rick Park 566 00:30:09,560 --> 00:30:16,760 was a bodybuilder. But it's about, you know, it's. 567 00:30:16,920 --> 00:30:19,920 Cary Grant, Yeah. Cary Grant yeah, fantastic 568 00:30:19,920 --> 00:30:23,960 figure when when you is Cary Grant is not really a body 569 00:30:23,960 --> 00:30:30,320 filter, but when you have when yeah, instead of being stiff if 570 00:30:30,320 --> 00:30:33,480 you have just a basic called savoir vivre in. 571 00:30:33,480 --> 00:30:37,200 French standing also. The basic rule of politeness, 572 00:30:37,200 --> 00:30:40,640 You know, there's one guy that was saying something that was 573 00:30:40,640 --> 00:30:44,680 quite true, that the first time you're invited because of the 574 00:30:44,680 --> 00:30:47,760 way you dress, and the second time you are invited again 575 00:30:47,760 --> 00:30:52,440 because of the way you are. So the way you dress, if you are 576 00:30:52,720 --> 00:30:55,360 in a very fancy tuxedo, you're going to be invited to very 577 00:30:55,360 --> 00:30:57,640 fancy parties. But the fact that you're going 578 00:30:57,640 --> 00:31:00,520 to be, you might be invited again, but the fact that you're 579 00:31:00,520 --> 00:31:02,880 going to blend in, the fact that you're going to actually have 580 00:31:02,880 --> 00:31:07,240 nice conversation with people, leave, have a life moment is 581 00:31:07,240 --> 00:31:10,160 because of the way you are. Yeah, because you, you cannot be 582 00:31:10,160 --> 00:31:12,760 fake in a tuxedo. It's because you're wearing 583 00:31:12,760 --> 00:31:15,000 formal where you you should be still yourself. 584 00:31:15,240 --> 00:31:19,280 You know what we say in Poland that you look good in a tuxedo 585 00:31:19,280 --> 00:31:23,640 in second generation? I think I'm the first generation 586 00:31:23,640 --> 00:31:26,000 actually that wore a tuxedo in my family. 587 00:31:26,040 --> 00:31:29,880 I mean, my dad, I don't think he ever wore a tuxedo. 588 00:31:30,000 --> 00:31:34,280 I don't think he either, but that's a nice subject and we can 589 00:31:34,280 --> 00:31:36,960 talk about it. The occasion toward Tuxedo, 590 00:31:36,960 --> 00:31:39,280 because in France I must say it's. 591 00:31:39,280 --> 00:31:41,080 You need to find. You need to find an occasion. 592 00:31:41,080 --> 00:31:43,600 You need to have a crowd also that is this type of crowd. 593 00:31:43,600 --> 00:31:45,800 You know that in Stockholm, actually, I was invited for a 594 00:31:45,800 --> 00:31:48,680 tuxedo evening. Guys are just wearing tuxedo and 595 00:31:48,680 --> 00:31:51,120 go out and have a drink. Yeah, I think it's cool. 596 00:31:51,280 --> 00:31:53,520 It's much more common. You, you wear a tuxedo. 597 00:31:53,680 --> 00:31:55,480 Yeah. Because, you know, in Poland we 598 00:31:55,480 --> 00:31:58,920 have we had socialism. And in the times of socialism, 599 00:31:58,920 --> 00:32:02,720 you don't wear something that is formal high class because it 600 00:32:02,720 --> 00:32:05,960 should be the the working class. Yeah, just yeah. 601 00:32:05,960 --> 00:32:09,560 No high class. So nobody wore tuxedo smokings. 602 00:32:09,720 --> 00:32:12,280 And here they didn't have it. They still wear it. 603 00:32:12,440 --> 00:32:15,360 And going to the opera, going to a theater, Yeah, yeah, you will 604 00:32:15,360 --> 00:32:17,040 be. You will be overdressed, but who 605 00:32:17,040 --> 00:32:18,800 cares? Now it's much more common than 606 00:32:18,800 --> 00:32:20,640 I. I think it comes from this trait 607 00:32:20,640 --> 00:32:23,720 of Scandinavian people to dress for the occasion, so they are 608 00:32:23,720 --> 00:32:26,640 way less shy to dress up for such an occasion. 609 00:32:26,640 --> 00:32:29,320 I mean in Norway. I mean, it's also, I think it's 610 00:32:29,320 --> 00:32:32,480 a Stockholm thing. It's a Stockholm thing. 611 00:32:32,720 --> 00:32:35,080 I mean, it's not a big country. Of course, it's mainly in 612 00:32:35,080 --> 00:32:37,840 Stockholm that you will have this type of opportunities, but 613 00:32:37,840 --> 00:32:43,040 you have actual events here. When it's, I mean, in France you 614 00:32:43,040 --> 00:32:47,280 have prom, but that's, that might be the first time that you 615 00:32:47,280 --> 00:32:49,640 will be keen to wear a suit. I don't even know if they're 616 00:32:49,640 --> 00:32:52,160 still doing that. France, yeah, I think in Poland 617 00:32:52,160 --> 00:32:54,960 they wear suits. Yeah, yeah, they would never 618 00:32:54,960 --> 00:32:58,680 wear a tuxedo, but I would say is the culture pushing you to 619 00:32:58,680 --> 00:33:02,520 wear a suit anyways? In Norway they have shot on the 620 00:33:02,520 --> 00:33:06,880 Mai and the 17th of May, which is a very big day for them. 621 00:33:07,400 --> 00:33:11,840 All women are dressed in traditional clothes and they 622 00:33:11,840 --> 00:33:14,440 have jewellery from the grandmother, great grandmother 623 00:33:14,440 --> 00:33:19,600 etcetera from generation to generation and and the boys are 624 00:33:19,600 --> 00:33:22,440 wearing sometimes traditional but sometimes suit. 625 00:33:22,640 --> 00:33:26,920 Usually those are the first suit and the more adult people they 626 00:33:26,920 --> 00:33:30,200 can be wearing tuxedos not outside in the streets but when 627 00:33:30,200 --> 00:33:31,920 they are parties in the evening and so on. 628 00:33:32,360 --> 00:33:36,200 So they are more keen to dress up, generally speaking, to have 629 00:33:36,200 --> 00:33:38,840 like tuxedos party. I mean, we're also living in a 630 00:33:38,840 --> 00:33:41,640 bubble, we must say. So it's, it's more likely for us 631 00:33:41,640 --> 00:33:45,640 to work to see those anyway then for the common people, which is 632 00:33:45,640 --> 00:33:47,920 a shame. But on the other hand, I feel 633 00:33:48,200 --> 00:33:50,800 I'm always a bit cringe when some people are really forcing 634 00:33:50,800 --> 00:33:52,760 it. You know, those guys that are 635 00:33:52,760 --> 00:33:55,640 living a bit like, oh, it was so much better before. 636 00:33:55,640 --> 00:33:57,760 They are 20 years old. They don't know how it was 637 00:33:57,760 --> 00:34:01,440 before. And they, you can tell that they 638 00:34:01,440 --> 00:34:05,080 are doing cosplay. And I'm a bit cringed by this, 639 00:34:05,080 --> 00:34:07,040 you know, I'm like. Right now, white tie. 640 00:34:07,040 --> 00:34:09,480 I feel like it's cosplay. Yeah, exactly. 641 00:34:09,480 --> 00:34:13,719 There's a seen line in between being elegant and being 642 00:34:13,719 --> 00:34:16,800 appropriate in the way of being elegant, wearing a nice black 643 00:34:16,800 --> 00:34:19,080 tie and then being a bit cosplaying. 644 00:34:19,239 --> 00:34:21,400 Reproducing. I mean, it can be nice for a 645 00:34:21,400 --> 00:34:25,239 moment to reproduce the old time valves type of. 646 00:34:25,639 --> 00:34:27,760 I see a lot of people doing that and there's a lot of content 647 00:34:27,760 --> 00:34:31,760 showing like, oh, I could be, I could be in the bar or I could 648 00:34:31,760 --> 00:34:35,080 be in the nightclub, but I prefer being here and then they 649 00:34:35,080 --> 00:34:37,639 are dressing like Princess and kings and all. 650 00:34:37,639 --> 00:34:41,159 They are not. I think we also forgot about 651 00:34:41,880 --> 00:34:43,880 footwear. Yeah, yeah, yeah. 652 00:34:43,880 --> 00:34:45,679 No, yeah. We can go back to. 653 00:34:46,040 --> 00:34:50,800 So it was a hot take, Yeah. And then we can go back to calm 654 00:34:50,800 --> 00:34:53,159 things down on the and. What can you wear? 655 00:34:53,280 --> 00:34:55,520 You like both? You like Oprah pumps like 656 00:34:55,719 --> 00:34:57,880 ballerina? You actually somebody asked me, 657 00:34:58,280 --> 00:35:01,080 are you wearing masculine ballerinas? 658 00:35:01,080 --> 00:35:02,840 No, it's guys. It's Oprah palms. 659 00:35:02,920 --> 00:35:08,560 They're small shoes like the patent leather with a bow tie. 660 00:35:08,840 --> 00:35:12,440 That's the most classical actually food to wear for men to 661 00:35:12,440 --> 00:35:14,640 wear that is still available today. 662 00:35:15,440 --> 00:35:18,080 I'm I wore medic fist. Very. 663 00:35:18,080 --> 00:35:19,520 Nice. Very affordable. 664 00:35:19,680 --> 00:35:22,560 I'm not with. Silk with silk socks. 665 00:35:22,560 --> 00:35:24,360 Socks. Yeah, yeah, silk socks. 666 00:35:24,680 --> 00:35:30,000 That's that's for sure. I'm not a big fan of the patent 667 00:35:31,280 --> 00:35:34,160 loafer like this. But I think it looks better than 668 00:35:34,160 --> 00:35:37,200 patent Oxford. Yeah, that's for sure. 669 00:35:37,200 --> 00:35:43,080 But I would I would go velvet. I think really I like something 670 00:35:43,080 --> 00:35:44,760 like Belgian loafers. Yeah, exactly. 671 00:35:44,760 --> 00:35:46,680 Or like slippers, it's also nice for summer. 672 00:35:46,960 --> 00:35:49,160 I, I prefer a bit this look, to be honest. 673 00:35:50,000 --> 00:35:53,160 But yeah, the Oxford patent leather is a bit too much. 674 00:35:53,160 --> 00:35:55,960 A bit too. Oxford can be if you guys you 675 00:35:55,960 --> 00:35:59,800 have black oxfords. Oxfords would work just just the 676 00:35:59,800 --> 00:36:02,880 mirror shine the capital. I would add this, it looks more 677 00:36:02,880 --> 00:36:04,520 formal. Absolutely, Absolutely. 678 00:36:04,560 --> 00:36:07,720 But no derbies, no Derby patent leather. 679 00:36:07,720 --> 00:36:10,840 This is something I don't know. A lot of people wear patent 680 00:36:10,840 --> 00:36:14,160 Derby shoes with open lacing. No, no it's not that. 681 00:36:14,520 --> 00:36:18,800 Or like monk shoes, no. What about, for example? 682 00:36:18,800 --> 00:36:21,520 It's not formal. This is, Yeah. 683 00:36:21,600 --> 00:36:24,000 It's still pattern. No, it's polished. 684 00:36:24,160 --> 00:36:29,960 It's polished and it's there is a very specific food. 685 00:36:30,000 --> 00:36:31,840 It needs to be very light. Exactly. 686 00:36:31,840 --> 00:36:33,560 It needs to be light. You need to be elegant. 687 00:36:33,560 --> 00:36:37,640 You are not. You're not going to fight there. 688 00:36:38,280 --> 00:36:39,880 You're not going to walk too much. 689 00:36:40,200 --> 00:36:43,240 It's to look comfortable, to look slick and clean. 690 00:36:43,440 --> 00:36:45,800 And hole cut would work as well. Oxfords. 691 00:36:46,160 --> 00:36:48,680 Yeah, yeah, yeah, true. Yeah. 692 00:36:48,960 --> 00:36:53,160 I like this velvet thing because I feel it's a bit more torn 693 00:36:53,160 --> 00:36:55,880 down. Also the patent leather, I 694 00:36:55,880 --> 00:36:58,640 always have a bit of hinge with that. 695 00:36:58,680 --> 00:37:01,840 I feel like it's a nice leather and you patent it. 696 00:37:01,840 --> 00:37:06,920 So it's you're a bit destroying it, so to speak, you know, so 697 00:37:06,920 --> 00:37:09,520 I'm always a bit skeptical about, I mean, that's the way it 698 00:37:09,520 --> 00:37:12,640 should look, but I'm just speaking my heart right now. 699 00:37:13,960 --> 00:37:16,440 That's why I would go velvet. And I think also it's a bit more 700 00:37:16,440 --> 00:37:19,360 comfortable. How do you feel? 701 00:37:19,480 --> 00:37:21,320 Do you feel comfortable in in yours? 702 00:37:21,560 --> 00:37:24,640 Yeah, they looked good because they were very simple, so the 703 00:37:24,640 --> 00:37:28,320 trousers draped very well. Yeah, yeah, yeah, you need. 704 00:37:28,520 --> 00:37:31,400 For me, I think it looks so much better when you have a very nice 705 00:37:31,440 --> 00:37:34,600 opening in your hand. So then you will have something 706 00:37:34,600 --> 00:37:38,360 that will cover will go down. On your almost cover the shoes. 707 00:37:38,480 --> 00:37:40,560 That's that's so much more. Beautiful, not slim fit 708 00:37:40,560 --> 00:37:42,120 trousers. Because then you look like 709 00:37:42,880 --> 00:37:46,040 Castani man. And I don't know how is Castani 710 00:37:47,040 --> 00:37:51,560 is, you know, the the thing that you in the atom in the atom when 711 00:37:51,560 --> 00:37:54,920 you when when it falls from trees, you know those brown 712 00:37:54,920 --> 00:37:56,440 ones. Yeah, like. 713 00:37:56,440 --> 00:38:00,080 You know when in ground school you did this, Those, those 714 00:38:00,240 --> 00:38:03,720 people, persons like figures from Castaica? 715 00:38:03,880 --> 00:38:08,720 How is it Castani in French? Do you know Sarah? 716 00:38:09,200 --> 00:38:14,720 Castani Manon. We need to have more people in 717 00:38:14,800 --> 00:38:16,760 our public. Translators. 718 00:38:16,760 --> 00:38:20,520 And you do you know? Yeah, we have some help here. 719 00:38:20,840 --> 00:38:24,280 Yeah, but also I think we covered all of it. 720 00:38:25,320 --> 00:38:28,280 Yeah. And something you shouldn't wear 721 00:38:28,280 --> 00:38:31,560 a watch with a tuxedo. It's like a rule. 722 00:38:31,640 --> 00:38:33,200 Yeah, you should wear a pocket watch. 723 00:38:33,200 --> 00:38:36,720 But guys, I would say that you can wear a watch, just a 724 00:38:36,720 --> 00:38:39,880 classical very small watch. It's something like Cartier Tank 725 00:38:40,360 --> 00:38:45,400 would work on a leather strap, Not a steel, not like James 726 00:38:45,400 --> 00:38:48,040 Bond, not Omegas. He's he. 727 00:38:48,040 --> 00:38:51,600 He looks good in smoke, in tuxedos, but his watch is, you 728 00:38:51,600 --> 00:38:53,440 know, guys, he's sponsored by Omega. 729 00:38:53,520 --> 00:38:56,680 Yeah, that's the job. Yeah, so he needs to wear it. 730 00:38:57,360 --> 00:39:00,360 He needs to be very simple, watch very clean and very small. 731 00:39:00,760 --> 00:39:05,120 That That's the tuxedo. But there is the and we have 732 00:39:05,120 --> 00:39:07,440 been talking a lot about expressing yourself and going a 733 00:39:07,440 --> 00:39:10,720 bit outside of the box. And diner jackets come in then 734 00:39:11,120 --> 00:39:15,240 because diner jacket will really bring colors, texture. 735 00:39:15,240 --> 00:39:19,480 That's the subject for next episode because we have 40 736 00:39:19,480 --> 00:39:20,880 minutes, guys. Yeah, yeah. 737 00:39:20,880 --> 00:39:25,280 And we need to keep it short. So next episode will be then a 738 00:39:25,280 --> 00:39:27,240 jacket. Yeah, Yeah, we have a lot to 739 00:39:27,280 --> 00:39:29,640 tell, Yeah. And also a fun fact that you, 740 00:39:29,720 --> 00:39:33,880 you know, guys, when it all started, Tuxedo was considered 741 00:39:33,880 --> 00:39:37,200 very rebellious, was it? OK, Yeah, that's funny. 742 00:39:37,280 --> 00:39:39,320 Very. Comfortable, laid back. 743 00:39:39,560 --> 00:39:42,600 Yeah, yeah, Too casual. Imagine too casual. 744 00:39:42,600 --> 00:39:45,120 Now guys are like, oh, tuxedo. No, no, no. 745 00:39:45,400 --> 00:39:46,880 Where can I wear it? Yeah. 746 00:39:47,360 --> 00:39:50,560 But the, I mean, for me, if we were to finish, I would say 747 00:39:51,280 --> 00:39:53,800 invest in a nice tuxedo, even if it's second hand. 748 00:39:53,840 --> 00:39:57,200 Actually, it could be even better if it's a gone end. 749 00:39:57,640 --> 00:40:00,680 And you will, you might think I will never have occasion to wear 750 00:40:00,680 --> 00:40:01,760 it. Yeah, create your own. 751 00:40:02,000 --> 00:40:06,120 Yeah, create your own occasions, I would say and enjoy wearing it 752 00:40:06,520 --> 00:40:08,960 and don't think it's going to be too much because when you are in 753 00:40:08,960 --> 00:40:11,840 this moment where everyone is wearing a tuxedo, it's the other 754 00:40:11,840 --> 00:40:13,480 way around. You feel I could have go fully 755 00:40:13,480 --> 00:40:15,880 in because now I'm feeling very comfortable in this ground with 756 00:40:15,880 --> 00:40:17,080 it. So enjoy it. 757 00:40:17,080 --> 00:40:20,920 So with this sentence, that's the end of the episode about 758 00:40:20,920 --> 00:40:25,200 very casual wear a tuxedo exactly. 759 00:40:25,320 --> 00:40:33,520 Follow DMS. If you own any form of tuxedo DMS, show us. 760 00:40:33,520 --> 00:40:35,200 Show us the picture of your tuxedo. 761 00:40:35,200 --> 00:40:38,400 We want to see you in a tuxedo. Absolutely. 762 00:40:38,440 --> 00:40:40,520 Share your impression on everything. 763 00:40:40,520 --> 00:40:42,800 Share your impression on the first year of the podcast. 764 00:40:42,800 --> 00:40:45,880 We would be very keen actually to hear what you think about our 765 00:40:45,880 --> 00:40:47,760 journey so far because you are really part of it. 766 00:40:47,960 --> 00:40:50,560 Yeah, and here you see you later guys. 767 00:40:50,560 --> 00:40:51,680 Ciao. Ciao guys.