All right, we are recording again in the studio after a
while. Yeah, I don't know if we know
how to do it anymore. Yeah.
It took us a while to just set up the the studio again because
guys, I don't know which episode is but over 50 I guess.
Yeah, it's, I think we are about to celebrate our first year
actually, it's something we can. Something like that.
Yeah. That's why today's subject is
actually formal wear, so mainly tuxedo, but we're going to cover
also some tail coats. How it all started and why
tuxedo is not even it wasn't considered a formal wear.
That's funny. Yeah, yeah.
But it's actually a huge topic, I would say.
And we can discuss a bit about this, but there's not so many
formal wear that some most of the men are meant to wear, and
tuxedo might be one of them actually.
Yeah, a lot of guys are wearing tuxedo on their weddings.
I was one of them. Yeah, but I will.
I have something to say. Why?
Where? When?
Where to wear a tuxedo? Where to wear a white tie?
Black tie. A pretty wide subject, actually.
Yeah, yeah, there's a lot of things to cover, but yeah, not
just before jumping into it. I just wanted to. 5 minutes
about our. But also take a minute just to
to because it's a big deal. We have been here for a year and
I think it's the way I feel about it.
I mean, we have been, it's been a lot of work from our side from
the beginning and. From the beginning.
The beginning I had, yeah, it's true that we have done some kind
of retrospectives not so long ago when we're showing how, how
it started, but it's really the the first year that it's.
Worth talking about back to 2016 and guys, it's not that old but
but. Yeah.
For us, it it's, we still look the same, Yeah.
No, we, we, we started in the apartment with audio and here
with with the studio with full setup.
Yeah, we have pictures. We guys, we have a lot of reels.
So if you just don't follow us on Instagram, search yourself
under Score Podcast and Instagram and there you can see
a lot of interviews, interesting interviews from PT Warmer.
Exclusive content. PT warmer, we were at the
menswear fair, not so far away. I think one month.
No, it's, it was, it's January. We're recording it in January
2026, the longest January in the whole world.
But guys, some interesting interviews and there are still
upcoming interviews. We have a lot, loads of
interviews. So our editors, they have full
hands of work. They're working even today.
Even one of our editor, his computer just just broke.
Yeah. Too much editing.
So. Yeah, yeah, there's a lot of
things coming. But I mean, All in all for one
year, I must say if we we take a look back, we have been, I mean,
we have put together a fantastic studio.
I, I think I we can be a bit cocky and say that we probably
have the best studio when it comes to podcast recording.
I mean for our niche at least. And guys, when I wanted to start
this podcast, it was my second podcast.
The first one was in Polish. You can still listen to to to
the podcast Pankron Austello if you're Polish or if you're not
polishing, if you speak Polish, DMEY, you're speaking Polish if
you're not Polish. But the idea was to have the
best menswear podcast in the world.
And I think we're going there and that's why the formal wear
because on at PT we actually had some opportunity to wear formal
wear. I didn't have my tuxedo.
I didn't arrive on time. But I still.
But you had to get some dinner jacket.
Yeah, exactly. And fun fact, you know in UK you
call tuxedo smoking a dinner jacket actually.
And I always were like OK, dinner jacket, but what about
the pants? The trousers.
Yeah, exactly. It's a smoking versus tuxedo.
It's just European versus US way of calling it.
But yeah, we have done a great journey.
We have really established the flow and we have, I mean we are
super used to this exercise not together and we really have our
trademark, you know, we stick out.
So that's been a lot of work during the first year and I
think that the second year will just be peaking going forward.
And guys, it's also your job to just share our podcast, to share
if you have somebody that want to elevate his style.
Yeah, yeah, just send the podcast to him and just comment
and we read all the comments. Yeah, we do.
And also we, we again, we say that all the time, but that's
true. We meet a lot of our people that
are listening to us and they're like, yeah, I'm listening to
everything and like, well, drop a comment like.
A comment. I know you know, Mr. Glass, your
thank you for the comments. Ingrid Swanson as well.
Yeah. And yeah, I didn't reply, but I
read the the message. Those pictures will be developed
from the analog camera. I just need to fill the whole
film with pictures. I I have the camera with me.
It's it wasn't fake. No, no, no, pictures are fake.
The The thing is, we have so much content all together.
Interviews, pictures, podcast, Analog pictures.
But wait, 5 minutes just passed. We need to start.
The Yeah. OK.
Well, just to say that we we always realize that we have so
much that we cannot publish, but we do as much as we can on this.
You mean the naked pictures from Pity?
You said that there were enough rumours like this.
All right, let's start. Let's, let's talk about Tuxedo.
Let's. Be formal.
I, I mean, OK, we, we, we said that we're going to talk about
formal wear. So I mean, the tuxedo men will
not gonna wear white tie long coat in their life because it's,
it's reserved for some royal celebrities, very formal.
So nobody will wear a long coat. So we're gonna just focus on the
tuxedo, which is black tie. It's not guys.
It's not a tie like I'm wearing like that.
It's a black bow tie. I've seen so many tuxedos on the
red carpets on Love is Blind. Brazilian Love is Blind.
Also. Come on.
Tuxedo with with a long with a long tie?
No, it's black bow tie. Yeah, yeah.
So, yeah, first of all, white tie means that the bow tie is
white. You also have a waistcoat that
is white, and you have a long jacket, and that's white tie,
that long coat exactly, almost no one is wearing anymore.
But then you have the black tie, which is the most common.
So black bow tie, the usual black.
Black or very dark midnight blue Navy jacket and trousers.
And all the details that are made of satin finish or it can
be different finish. We we will break that down.
But where it all started? Actually, it started like
everything in UK, but it got popularized in USA.
Yeah. So in the 1000 eighties, it was,
it was designed for Prince of Wales, Edward the 7th.
OK, yeah, exactly. And he thought that the long
coats are so uncomfortable, so he wanted to have some more
casual imagine and and his tailor created a shorter, more
comfortable evening jacket to wear at private dinners.
OK. And then somebody, somebody from
USA just seen it and took to USA, to New York, to Tuxedo
Club. That's why it's called Tuxedo in
USA. Yeah.
Tuxedo Park, a wealthy enclave, like a gentlemen's club in New
York. So it all started there.
So it was shorter than long coats, more relaxed, but still
elegant, still black. And it's black or midnight blue
because, guys, it was designed to wear in fake light, an
artificial light. And it was gas light.
It's not gas lighting, but in gas light so that the fabric
looks good. So guys, it's an evening wear.
Don't wear a tuxedo on your wedding if the wedding isn't
Yeah. And yeah, yeah, yeah.
So I I had on my first wedding and it was at six so it's OK I'm
safe. But The thing is, yeah.
So they are for me to see the way I see that is that.
Yeah. The purpose, the first purpose
is, first of all, to blend in. All the men should look the
same. It's a uniform.
Yeah. And the second purpose is also
to make the woman shine because the women then will wear a much
more extravagant color in their dresses.
So it's a, it's a gentleman way of.
To be in the background. Exactly, to put yourself in the
back and let the other shine and in this case, the ladies that
text company with so it's that's the reason why usually by
default have very dark colors. But then we'll talk about it
later on. There's no lots of pops of
colors coming on, and that's the diner jacket.
And also in the US you call it tuxedo.
In the UK you call it dinner jacket.
You can call it a smoking, but there's also something like
smoking jacket that you take off the jacket that is the same
colour as trousers and you put on the velvet jacket, which is
to smoke in. When gentlemen's went to go and
take a smoke to not smell, to not smell the, the, the
cigarettes or cigars. And then they put on the, the
dinner, the, the tuxedo jacket again.
And it was the full like uniform.
It was just this black or midnight blue.
Yeah, we can actually break down all the elements that compose
the black tie wear. Exactly.
We can start with the jacket. So yeah, quite typically you
need to have something that is quite formal, so your shoulder
will be quite stiff. With a bit of padding you will
have the. Bells will be covered in the
velvet. Absolutely so.
They don't need to be in, for example, white off white jacket
like a tropical tuxedo. Yeah, Yeah, they can be made of
the of the same fabric with diner jacket.
You can play a bit around this, but if you start with the
tuxedo, the lapels are made with a different finish, can be a
silk finish that's we are traditionally not really using
silk anymore. Silk is a very difficult fabric
to to wear. It's quite fragile, it's very
luxurious, but it's, I mean as a.
Right now it's usually cotton. Yeah, it's usually cotton or
it's it's a mix, but something that will be more solid, more
durable. It's just shiny.
Yeah, exactly. I.
Think and buttons are also covered covered with the fabric
with the same fabric and the vents yeah, not vents.
The jet pockets. The finish of the jet pockets
are OK. So yeah, jet pockets, that's
also something you don't wear a tuxedo with flaps or like how
you call it juice. I forgot the the patch pockets.
No. And you guys, if you see a
tuxedo with flaps and for example, with single breasted
with two buttons, then you know that it's just a suit tuxedo
suit. So it's something in between.
It's some kind of cancer monster.
And it's just because it's cheaper for for the for the for
the companies. They don't need to have a
different pattern for tuxedo. So they just use the the the
suit. It's very cheap.
You don't go there because the jacket should be if it's single
breasted, it should be just with one button.
Yeah, if it's there's three ways, there's one button, single
breasted. Exactly.
Double breasted. 6 and on two, yeah, or 6 by 1.
So it's like 6 buttons, but you just button the one button.
Of course it also can be 4 at one.
It can be 4 by 2. There's no specific rules, but
it can be double breasted and it can be shawl lapel.
It's also single breasted shawl lapel the lapels and if it's
single breasted then it needs to be peak lapel.
So the so the gorge is closed. It's not because it's formal.
Notch lapel the gorge when it's open it's it's considered less
formal so it's peak lapel. Single breasted 1 button.
When it's double breasted then it needs to be peak lapel.
Yeah, and I mentioned the Shaw lapel.
I I don't really think a shawl lapel on tuxedo looks really
nice. It can look good on the diner
jacket of course, but outside of diner jacket I think a tuxedo
with shawl lapels. Not a huge fan of that.
But you can also have the wider shawl color when the bottom of
the shawl is. Yeah, it's huge.
But it looks better on the diner jacket now.
I mean, you know, the diner jacket is it's, I like it.
I that's my next. Yeah.
But you already have traditional 1 so then maybe you can explore
on something. A lot of people, they start with
the shawl lapel on tuxedo like. I mean, if it's shawl lapel, I
think it needs to be thicker. Yeah, yeah, because when it's
very thin, then it's just too feminine a bit.
So you have a different finish. We we talked about it.
So the finish on your lapels are going to be the same on the jet
pockets, also on the bottoms. And finally on the bow tie there
are different finish. Some are grow grain slash
autonom, so they have a bit more texture, they're a bit more torn
down, a bit more matte. And then you have the
traditional satin finish, which personally is my favorite I
think is the. And it's also can be velvet, but
then the bow tie is thicker. Yeah.
So you, you cannot have, for example, the knot.
It will be very bigger. And shout out to LA Boutique
Bow. Tie.
Bow tie, Yeah. Who sells?
I think it's one of the, I don't know how many companies actually
sell bespoke or bow ties like that.
If you if you're looking for different bow ties, if you want
to stick out, La Boutique. A boutique bow tie is doing a
fantastic job. He has his own shapes and he's.
Also Michael. Yeah.
Yeah, Michelle. Michelle exactly.
He's French, actually, he's from the same area where is my
family, so we always have a good time talking about that.
He lives in England and in Oslo, so we we talk French, yeah.
Of course. But but yeah, so that's for the
jacket. Then you have the trousers, all
those things, they are quite ruled on.
You cannot really go outside of the box to be honest.
I mean you shouldn't have any pleats, it should be flat.
Oh, really? Yeah, I have one plate.
Yeah, I do have one plate. Also, yeah it it should be flat.
It shouldn't have visible button.
Yeah it should be also flat. I mean it should be the simplest
that it. Can be.
Yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah. No, I get that.
That's no side adjusters. I have side adjusters, but you
cannot see them. Yeah, exactly.
No, no belt. No belt loops.
It's good to know, but you know you are teaching me some stuff
here because I didn't know about the plits for example.
I know it needs to be as minimalistic as possible.
You would never have a turn up for example.
And also for the purpose that you have the the Saturn exactly
on the side that also matching with your.
It's called Gallon, gallon, exactly gallon.
Which is the same and. It visually lengthens the leg,
yeah, So it's good for you all short kings.
Exactly. But yeah, that's true that.
I mean, you can go slightly outside of the box.
I mean, if you have plates, who cares, you know?
You cannot see those plates because because you wear a
camera band. Exactly.
I think it's nicer with the camera band.
You know, you know, guys, what is the in in.
In Poland we actually call it is Spanish belt.
And you know those pleats on camel band, they should be worn
upwards. Yeah.
No, not downwards. You know why?
Because you need to just collect all the crumbs if you eat bread.
No, I'm kidding. I don't know.
I I should know why for? A second I was about to say for
real. Now I I maybe if you if you if
if some coins fell so you can grab them, but it's not this
part of the word that actually would grab coins.
Funny with the Spanish because you know the Torrero.
I think it's because of torreados, yeah.
But torreados are probably also wearing this because it's a
traditional suit or traditional costume that they are wearing,
so it's probably coming from somewhere.
Else But you know why you wear a camera band?
You know, You know what is the triangle of sadness in tuxedo?
Not in tuxedo, I know it in the face, but.
No, but it's it's the. Yeah, yeah, yeah.
It's this white gap when you have a when you have a single
breasted jacket. I said I don't know.
I came up with this triangle of sadness.
Really. I said that.
Oh yeah, but. It's my trademark.
It's it's just the gap when you see the shirt, the white shirt
and everything is black and you see the opening of the jacket
below the button and it's white. It's it's it looks very bad.
And I see it in Hollywood and the people are just wearing even
low waisted trousers. And also camera band is to cover
your shirt. Because when you sit, you have
Aussie. I look sloppy.
Somebody actually commented that I look sloppy, that my tie looks
sloppy. Guys, I'm sitting and the sofa,
the sofa is not so comfortable. And you know, you wear a suit,
you live, you move. And that's what is nice.
And I'm not gonna sit like I'm. I have some kind of stick in my
behind. Yeah.
Yeah, but some people don't understand what it is to wear
suits. It's not to be stiff and it's.
Not relaxed. Exactly.
You can be looking very good and yeah, your garments are gonna
leave, they're gonna crease, you're gonna, it's not gonna
look perfect. And that's.
Felt offended. I'm I'm mad now.
Really, I think that those people, they look too much
Instagram pictures and. Yeah, pictures even.
Also, that's not the reality if you learn Garmin because people
are not wearing suits anymore so they only see suits through
pictures. So they see very top notch
things and they see. Oh, there's a way.
You know why? Also, because most of suits are
just too tight and people actually wearing those tight
suits, they need to stand like a soldier because they cannot sit.
It's gonna crack. It's gonna crack.
It's gonna be uncomfortable. They gonna sweat in those
polyester suits. OK.
But before jumping onto the Hollywood guys because we have a
few stuff to say, yeah, let's finish the the overall look.
So you have. Braces also suspenders.
Yeah, braces. For me it's a top.
I think you should wear braces every time you have the
opportunity. It's so much nicer, it makes
your trousers stand in a nice way.
For me it helps me also because my hip are not completely equal.
You know what? My hip.
What did I? Say, oh this guy, he knows how
to say age. My hip, yeah, I'm trying.
Sometimes my French accent is stepping over, so my hips are
not completely equal. So for me, I have something a
bit looser and I have suspenders.
Makes my trousers fit better. It's more comfortable because I
can have a bit larger waist also.
It's just nicer. It's different.
Yeah, but even like wearing OK, we're not talking about braces.
Maybe that could be another episode, but for me it's nice
accessory about Yeah. Yeah, it's also nice accessory.
And you can wear a shirt like some other shirt without braces,
because imagine western shirt with braces, no?
No, yeah, exactly. It needs to go also with the
with all outfit. It needs to make sense, I would
say. But yeah, so the the shirt.
And those braces also, they need to be white and it's like white
motor I think it's called. The pattern.
Exactly. It's like that.
Like James Bond? Yeah, exactly.
Yeah, yeah. There are specific braces for
for this type of of wear, which has.
There's a little bit of pattern in there.
There's a bit of luster. And you know what?
I'm reading just our bullet points.
And actually, I was right that the camera bands should catch
bread crumbs. Really.
All the dining tradition, That's funny.
So when we make them. You know, gentlemen's, they're
just grabbing the bread crumbs in camera bands to to.
Boys will be boys, so. So, so, so the cleaners, they
don't need to clean that much or maybe because not to waste food.
Not that I mean if you are wearing a tuxedo, usually you
are. You're not going home and
catching the last crumps. That was a nice dinner, but
didn't have enough back then. Yeah, I don't know, but it's
it's just funny that I I was just looking and sorry, sorry.
I've you were talking. That's actually quite
ridiculous. Yeah, it's ridiculous.
But but yeah, the tuxedo shirt. So the tuxedo shirt should be.
It's quite specific, so you have a contrasted chest.
I mean, it's just the the the visible part of the shirt.
So other part of the shirts are not so important.
So it can it it can be made, they can be made from a cheaper
multi fabric. Yeah, they can, yeah.
And because those pleats for example, if you have pleated or
Piquet. Yeah.
Yeah, exactly. It's more it's more expensive
and it's more festive. And so it's just more expensive.
Yeah, but honestly, it's quite rare.
I would shy away from any brands that are making a cheaper fabric
or a different fabric for the rest of the garment than the
whole shirt because nowadays it's not really a good sign.
Yeah, maybe 100 years ago. But it is.
It's how it how it is even right now.
It's the tradition. Yeah, but because the fabric.
Fabric, but the fabric is also very thick.
Here, Yeah, it is so if. If you have the same fabric on,
on sleeves, it's it's, it's gonna, it's not gonna be
comfortable. And if you have those pleats,
for example, I have a shirt with pleats.
Yeah, the way I've, I mean, I've seen it, yeah, the construction,
it's, it's doubled here. You have the, it's made like a
regular shirt and then above it you have another fabric.
So that's the way I've seen it. And and the fabric is.
It's more the way it's splitted unless.
It can be pleated, but it doesn't need to be.
It can be also thick Piquet. Yeah.
Piquet, Yeah, Yeah, exactly. Which is very specific.
It's a bit more old school, I think, with Piquet, which is
quite cool. But yeah, I mean, yeah.
Anyways, it can be made with different fabric cufflinks.
It's an obligation, Yeah. French, French French Cuffs.
Cuffs. Yeah, double round, much better.
So double round French cuffs, those are just different name
for the same thing and the colour and the color.
Classical it can be the the tuxedo color which is like.
Broken flying. I don't like it.
You don't. No, I don't.
You know that that's my outfit. I I purchase it.
I I wanted to. I like the.
More the more traditional, the regular, just longer, longer,
longer color. French or canned color?
A bit longer exactly. They were.
And also buttons. Yeah.
You eat the you. You eat those hot stud stud
buttons like jewelry buttons or you have covered buttons, Yeah.
I have seen some with so traditionally you would have
them black, but I've seen some with the silver.
Exactly. I have seen some with the also
mother of pearls. They look amazing.
It's very beautiful actually, so.
You know what I've seen actually Snap buttons.
They look like stud stud buttons but it's.
It would work. It's a bit of a trick.
Yeah, it is a trick, but it looks good.
It looks cool. It's it's a Pearl also.
Yeah. But I mean, we are talking about
things that are quite advanced because for example at Ptuomo
there are parties that are mixing tuxedo waste and things
like this. And then people can be very
creative around those things. But yeah, if we start from the
basic, usually you would have stuck buttons, nice cuff links.
It's the time to I would by default.
And again we are talking about the default settings.
Then we you will see us doing outside of the box and then you
will come at us. You are not doing like you said.
Yeah, because they are. They are the rules and then we
do whatever we want. Yeah, it's it's like how you
call it formal wear. Create creative formal wear.
Yeah, exactly. You can be a bit more creative,
especially when you were used to wear those things and when you
want to express a bit yourself more.
But by default I would say that your cufflinks shouldn't be too
extravagant. So usually you go for black type
of not Pearl, but jewelry, stones with gold or silver and
jewelry. So not too extravagant, not too
much colourful, usually your trying to be just.
I have issues finding the perfect cuffs.
Yeah, because the one that I like, they're actually pure
gold. Yeah, well, I see the issue
then. It's your bank account the
issue. Now it's just when you develop
good style, everything is so expensive.
Yeah, Yeah. No, that's true.
And actually for a tuxedo, you might want to invest because
it's very fancy. So you're like, OK, I won't wear
it too often, so maybe I don't want to invest too much.
But on the moment you will wear it, you really want to look.
And The thing is also so that I would say that tuxedo jacket
should be a bit slightly 1 centimeter to longer.
Yeah, longer. Yeah, it it gives a very classic
look. Yeah, I think it's very nice.
It's nice to have something that is a bit different from a
typical suit. Yeah, that's true.
And we're talking about the bow tie.
I would say it's by far much better to have a bow tie that
you will tie yourself. Yeah, it just looks better.
You need to learn. Even myself, I'm still one time
on two. I struggle a bit because I'm not
doing. But you know that there there
are bow ties, for example, like from La La Boutique.
They are you can tie them by yourself, but they are pretty
tied. But you can also just leave them
tied and you have this lock. Yeah, that's actually pretty
nice. Yeah, most bow ties are like
this. You do it well.
It's just easier. And then you can unwrap it so.
But it still looks great. Yeah, it it looks much better
than those already tied bow tie. So yeah, self tied bow tie will
always be a better choice if you want to look cool at the end of
the party when everyone is drunk and jumping around.
If you untie it, it lies on the on both side.
That's funny, that's cool. That's a gimmick, I must say.
But but yeah, it's just going to look better and why it's because
then you can adjust it. It has a better puff.
It's. Looks more natural.
It doesn't look so so like ground school Gala.
Yeah, exactly. It doesn't look too perfect
because yeah, we're talking about those guys that are saying
that we don't look too perfect all the time.
That's the point. That's the point.
Exactly. That's where elegance strike.
It's when you are not we. You don't look 10, you just use
your clothes. They can be.
Yourself. Look at King Charles.
He's he's so chill in his clothes.
Yeah, exactly. He's even putting his hand in
the pockets and wearing the same suits for 30 years.
Because a suit, what we forget is that suit is a workwear.
So you are supposed to be able to use the pocket.
You are supposed to be able to live in it.
You know, it's it's not something that that should make
you feel uncomfortable. And if you cannot use it full
potentially to its full potential, it means that but you
are stiff. We are talking about the basic
rules here. And of course you can always,
like you said, be creative and go outside of it.
But it. Could also have a purpose also.
Exactly, and it needs to reflect either an event also yourself,
because we are talking about the we are talking about the
foreshadowing, the red carpets and you have all those Hollywood
stars that don't dress by themselves and you can tell
because it. Looks as you know why that's
also funny? Because actually Hollywood
popularized tuxedo. All those from 1930s to 1960s
Hollywood stars, it met those Hollywood stars, made it iconic
in romantic scenes, dance numbers, high society parties,
golden age of Hollywood. Everyone wanted to wear tuxedo
because it just looks so good. The contrast between white and
black that it looks so manly. It just, it was something
different because, you know, suits were something regular
that people wore, but the tuxedos and it was a different
level. Yeah, it was the.
Time for the big. Drama.
Ultimate symbol of class and sense sophistication.
Yeah, Absolutely. Yeah.
Yeah, yeah. And this is the opportunity for
you to to be your best on all points and on all those scenes,
what they were showing, it was like the the pick of a movie
usually. So you have more drama, but also
you have those people that are so refine and refine in their
way of thinking, in their way of behaving.
And again, it's not about being stiff, it's about having.
Frank Sinatra was not stiff in. His absolutely so far from being
stiff. Not Rick Park, just Rick Park
was a bodybuilder. But it's about, you know, it's.
Cary Grant, Yeah. Cary Grant yeah, fantastic
figure when when you is Cary Grant is not really a body
filter, but when you have when yeah, instead of being stiff if
you have just a basic called savoir vivre in.
French standing also. The basic rule of politeness,
You know, there's one guy that was saying something that was
quite true, that the first time you're invited because of the
way you dress, and the second time you are invited again
because of the way you are. So the way you dress, if you are
in a very fancy tuxedo, you're going to be invited to very
fancy parties. But the fact that you're going
to be, you might be invited again, but the fact that you're
going to blend in, the fact that you're going to actually have
nice conversation with people, leave, have a life moment is
because of the way you are. Yeah, because you, you cannot be
fake in a tuxedo. It's because you're wearing
formal where you you should be still yourself.
You know what we say in Poland that you look good in a tuxedo
in second generation? I think I'm the first generation
actually that wore a tuxedo in my family.
I mean, my dad, I don't think he ever wore a tuxedo.
I don't think he either, but that's a nice subject and we can
talk about it. The occasion toward Tuxedo,
because in France I must say it's.
You need to find. You need to find an occasion.
You need to have a crowd also that is this type of crowd.
You know that in Stockholm, actually, I was invited for a
tuxedo evening. Guys are just wearing tuxedo and
go out and have a drink. Yeah, I think it's cool.
It's much more common. You, you wear a tuxedo.
Yeah. Because, you know, in Poland we
have we had socialism. And in the times of socialism,
you don't wear something that is formal high class because it
should be the the working class. Yeah, just yeah.
No high class. So nobody wore tuxedo smokings.
And here they didn't have it. They still wear it.
And going to the opera, going to a theater, Yeah, yeah, you will
be. You will be overdressed, but who
cares? Now it's much more common than
I. I think it comes from this trait
of Scandinavian people to dress for the occasion, so they are
way less shy to dress up for such an occasion.
I mean in Norway. I mean, it's also, I think it's
a Stockholm thing. It's a Stockholm thing.
I mean, it's not a big country. Of course, it's mainly in
Stockholm that you will have this type of opportunities, but
you have actual events here. When it's, I mean, in France you
have prom, but that's, that might be the first time that you
will be keen to wear a suit. I don't even know if they're
still doing that. France, yeah, I think in Poland
they wear suits. Yeah, yeah, they would never
wear a tuxedo, but I would say is the culture pushing you to
wear a suit anyways? In Norway they have shot on the
Mai and the 17th of May, which is a very big day for them.
All women are dressed in traditional clothes and they
have jewellery from the grandmother, great grandmother
etcetera from generation to generation and and the boys are
wearing sometimes traditional but sometimes suit.
Usually those are the first suit and the more adult people they
can be wearing tuxedos not outside in the streets but when
they are parties in the evening and so on.
So they are more keen to dress up, generally speaking, to have
like tuxedos party. I mean, we're also living in a
bubble, we must say. So it's, it's more likely for us
to work to see those anyway then for the common people, which is
a shame. But on the other hand, I feel
I'm always a bit cringe when some people are really forcing
it. You know, those guys that are
living a bit like, oh, it was so much better before.
They are 20 years old. They don't know how it was
before. And they, you can tell that they
are doing cosplay. And I'm a bit cringed by this,
you know, I'm like. Right now, white tie.
I feel like it's cosplay. Yeah, exactly.
There's a seen line in between being elegant and being
appropriate in the way of being elegant, wearing a nice black
tie and then being a bit cosplaying.
Reproducing. I mean, it can be nice for a
moment to reproduce the old time valves type of.
I see a lot of people doing that and there's a lot of content
showing like, oh, I could be, I could be in the bar or I could
be in the nightclub, but I prefer being here and then they
are dressing like Princess and kings and all.
They are not. I think we also forgot about
footwear. Yeah, yeah, yeah.
No, yeah. We can go back to.
So it was a hot take, Yeah. And then we can go back to calm
things down on the and. What can you wear?
You like both? You like Oprah pumps like
ballerina? You actually somebody asked me,
are you wearing masculine ballerinas?
No, it's guys. It's Oprah palms.
They're small shoes like the patent leather with a bow tie.
That's the most classical actually food to wear for men to
wear that is still available today.
I'm I wore medic fist. Very.
Nice. Very affordable.
I'm not with. Silk with silk socks.
Socks. Yeah, yeah, silk socks.
That's that's for sure. I'm not a big fan of the patent
loafer like this. But I think it looks better than
patent Oxford. Yeah, that's for sure.
But I would I would go velvet. I think really I like something
like Belgian loafers. Yeah, exactly.
Or like slippers, it's also nice for summer.
I, I prefer a bit this look, to be honest.
But yeah, the Oxford patent leather is a bit too much.
A bit too. Oxford can be if you guys you
have black oxfords. Oxfords would work just just the
mirror shine the capital. I would add this, it looks more
formal. Absolutely, Absolutely.
But no derbies, no Derby patent leather.
This is something I don't know. A lot of people wear patent
Derby shoes with open lacing. No, no it's not that.
Or like monk shoes, no. What about, for example?
It's not formal. This is, Yeah.
It's still pattern. No, it's polished.
It's polished and it's there is a very specific food.
It needs to be very light. Exactly.
It needs to be light. You need to be elegant.
You are not. You're not going to fight there.
You're not going to walk too much.
It's to look comfortable, to look slick and clean.
And hole cut would work as well. Oxfords.
Yeah, yeah, yeah, true. Yeah.
I like this velvet thing because I feel it's a bit more torn
down. Also the patent leather, I
always have a bit of hinge with that.
I feel like it's a nice leather and you patent it.
So it's you're a bit destroying it, so to speak, you know, so
I'm always a bit skeptical about, I mean, that's the way it
should look, but I'm just speaking my heart right now.
That's why I would go velvet. And I think also it's a bit more
comfortable. How do you feel?
Do you feel comfortable in in yours?
Yeah, they looked good because they were very simple, so the
trousers draped very well. Yeah, yeah, yeah, you need.
For me, I think it looks so much better when you have a very nice
opening in your hand. So then you will have something
that will cover will go down. On your almost cover the shoes.
That's that's so much more. Beautiful, not slim fit
trousers. Because then you look like
Castani man. And I don't know how is Castani
is, you know, the the thing that you in the atom in the atom when
you when when it falls from trees, you know those brown
ones. Yeah, like.
You know when in ground school you did this, Those, those
people, persons like figures from Castaica?
How is it Castani in French? Do you know Sarah?
Castani Manon. We need to have more people in
our public. Translators.
And you do you know? Yeah, we have some help here.
Yeah, but also I think we covered all of it.
Yeah. And something you shouldn't wear
a watch with a tuxedo. It's like a rule.
Yeah, you should wear a pocket watch.
But guys, I would say that you can wear a watch, just a
classical very small watch. It's something like Cartier Tank
would work on a leather strap, Not a steel, not like James
Bond, not Omegas. He's he.
He looks good in smoke, in tuxedos, but his watch is, you
know, guys, he's sponsored by Omega.
Yeah, that's the job. Yeah, so he needs to wear it.
He needs to be very simple, watch very clean and very small.
That That's the tuxedo. But there is the and we have
been talking a lot about expressing yourself and going a
bit outside of the box. And diner jackets come in then
because diner jacket will really bring colors, texture.
That's the subject for next episode because we have 40
minutes, guys. Yeah, yeah.
And we need to keep it short. So next episode will be then a
jacket. Yeah, Yeah, we have a lot to
tell, Yeah. And also a fun fact that you,
you know, guys, when it all started, Tuxedo was considered
very rebellious, was it? OK, Yeah, that's funny.
Very. Comfortable, laid back.
Yeah, yeah, Too casual. Imagine too casual.
Now guys are like, oh, tuxedo. No, no, no.
Where can I wear it? Yeah.
But the, I mean, for me, if we were to finish, I would say
invest in a nice tuxedo, even if it's second hand.
Actually, it could be even better if it's a gone end.
And you will, you might think I will never have occasion to wear
it. Yeah, create your own.
Yeah, create your own occasions, I would say and enjoy wearing it
and don't think it's going to be too much because when you are in
this moment where everyone is wearing a tuxedo, it's the other
way around. You feel I could have go fully
in because now I'm feeling very comfortable in this ground with
it. So enjoy it.
So with this sentence, that's the end of the episode about
very casual wear a tuxedo exactly.
Follow DMS. If you own any form of tuxedo DMS, show us.
Show us the picture of your tuxedo.
We want to see you in a tuxedo. Absolutely.
Share your impression on everything.
Share your impression on the first year of the podcast.
We would be very keen actually to hear what you think about our
journey so far because you are really part of it.
Yeah, and here you see you later guys.
Ciao. Ciao guys.