Welcome for the 4th part of this follow.
Follow the episode on Orkutish. Yeah.
And are you some kind of a musician today with the
sunglasses in the studio? Like what is going?
On I don't want you to See my game so you can see that the
tiredness level is increasing and the goofiness as well.
Yeah, today, today we're gonna talk about classic menswear and
that is is dead. Is it so We're gonna, we're
gonna be a bit controversial then.
Yeah, I mean, a lot of people are are just wearing menswear
wrong, I guess. Yeah, but what you are saying is
like in between two thing is that they are wearing it wrong.
So that might be an answer of it's dead.
Why It's dead? Because it's not worn.
Properly. And why is?
Why is it? And is it so nice when it's worn
properly? Because a lot of guys when they
are wearing like very stiff by the rule, very classic menswear,
sometimes it feels like they never go out.
And have they ever met a girl before?
Yeah, but also a lot of people wear menswear because they need
to, because it's a kind, some kind of uniform.
And even it wasn't like it was like that in the past.
We had all those rules, but now the rules are not they not don't
apply anymore. But that's why we invented the
style, because you can have a uniform and steal by just a
better cut or a better fabric or pattern that is a bit different,
have styles so you can show yourself through this uniform.
But a lot of people just use some someone else's style.
They don't have their own, they just copy something.
Into the. Which is not bad because that
actually in the beginning you should copy and then you find
your own style. That's exactly what I was about
to bounce back on. I was about to say, yeah, but a
lot of the style that I like now and then I really made myself
and people would say, Oh yeah, that's the way he dresses.
The Jordan style is actually things that I have seen on.
Other people. This is Jordan style.
Yolando. Style, Yolando.
But who is wearing this casual outfit today?
Better. You have this striped Hawker
T-shirt. Yeah, I have Field Jacket and
Henley. And I have some green trousers
with the ripstop fabric I have. It's more like my style because
it's also military. Exactly so military that would.
Actually work pretty well. It's a different kind of green
because mine is a green greyish. Yeah, and green is hard to wear,
but with this type of colour, very faded tones, Yeah,
desaturated, that's much easier. And these ones, they work if you
go military. So military, since it's a peace
in itself that has a lot of strength, much easier to put it
in the wardrobe and and look cool.
I also have the green socks. Hello guys.
The green socks that goes with their military socks.
Also they are from the Italian army actually surplus.
And today we are talking about that Mansfield is there, but
also that is not that will like I spoiled a bit, but we are
talking about Hockerty because Hockerty has also something that
is for everyone. We have the casual stuff, we
have formal, we have casual suits, we have also filled
jackets, we have Henleys. So you can combine because.
A lot of casual. Yeah, exactly.
Yeah. So you can find everything.
And I don't think it it, it's that because it's just worn a
lot of guys they're just wearing the those suits for Instagram.
Yeah, taking pictures showing up and then do changing to
something casual I am wearing. At home.
Are you wearing a suit at home? Because me, as soon as yeah, as
I, I. Wear boxers at home.
Yeah, exactly. As soon as I go out, I think as
I go home home, I'm either naked or I'm wearing Yeah, but we're.
Talking in real life because a lot of guys they're just, you
know, ironing the suits and then they just show on the Instagram
and then they just changing to some something else.
I I don't wear. Cosplaying.
Cosplaying, exactly. I love wearing suits, but I love
to wear it as an arm or outside. It's an outside garment which
represents myself outside and that's something that I love
about. Also, it's something that you
want to wear, not that you're forced.
To no exactly I no absolutely. Even guys, if you're forced to
wear a suit, just wear a nice suit.
Exactly, but it doesn't. Need to be something.
I'm working with they're forced to wear to wear suits, but they
are making their suits very special.
Then they have special fabrics, they have their own style and
then it doesn't feel like they are.
They embraced it the the fact that they are forced to wear a
suit to make it their own style and to really be intentional in
what they are wearing. Yeah, if you, if you, if you
need to wear a suit, just make some nice details in at Hockerty
you have this 3D Configurator. You can choose some wider
lapels, some some nicer fabrics, even some premium fabrics, some
patterns. You can add some.
Add some casual casual stuff that you can even wear a suit
without a tie, without a shirt. You can you can wear with
sneakers. You you can choose even shoes at
Hockerty. It's just it's just nowadays, if
you're not forced to wear a suit, it's still nice to wear a
suit, but to make it still intentional, that's the word
again and find your own style. Find something that you're
comfortable with. And we always say that even the
the cheapest made to measure like Cockerty is very affordable
that you looks much better because it's tailored to your
body than something off the rack.
Yeah. But I would say that talking
about his men's were dead. I would say that for me, I would
feel uncomfortable be living in a small village and being the
only guy wearing a suit. And I think some guys, it works
for them to push their personality and be a bit
extravagant like this, going against the flow of the
environment. And me, I prefer to adapt to my
environment. And I feel like if I want to
dress like this, I'd need to be in an environment that works
with this. So I changed my environment to
be able to wear what I like to wear.
And I like this idea that I can adapt to the person in front of
me. So that's why I think it's nice
for everyone to have different levels of of from casual to more
formal. So different level of clothes
that you're wearing and also adapted to your activity.
If you are doing a certain activity, especially a sport
activity, well, you need to dress accordingly, you know.
There there was a guy on Instagram he owns Made to
Measure brand. He's actually Swedish.
Yeah, he did the high rocks in full suit.
OK, Yeah, yeah, you don't always have fun, but for me it's.
And his pulse, his heart rate was way too high.
Well, because of the suit maybe. Yeah, I mean, it was
overheating. And I'm like why?
Maybe it wasn't comfortable how the suit will look on the fence
he. Sweats a lot.
Yeah, but it's not meant for that.
It's not comfortable. Just wear something.
No, but when I'm going to the gym, I'm wearing all the size
T-shirts and sportswear I'm never going to show up with.
Even sometimes I'm seeing those guys trying to wear a bit like
old school, like gym wear, you know, like. 80s and 90s.
Yeah, but even from before, like from the 70s or 60s with those
very heavy cottons and I'm like, it's so it's actually very
uncomfortable. Yeah, comfortable, but they are
not breathable. I'm wearing shorts.
But also also there there are a lot of guys that are hiding
their insecurities behind the suit.
And if you need to wear a suit to hide it, maybe it's I don't
know, is it a good idea? I mean if you are more confident
wearing a suit, I. Would say that you you.
Bring you bring such a lot of ice on you.
Also wearing a suit. But also that and we can go a
bit deeper. You're less approachable in a
suit, I would say. Yeah, but those people, they,
they since they are full of insecurities they don't want,
they are not approachable by default.
And so that's the armour, but that's a pushing back armour.
But I think that also a a suit, you take less risk when you have
more construction in a suit. So the more constructed is you
suit, the more it's going to have its own shape.
And then the more you're going to look a bit stiff and formal.
But also the more the less you have chances that it looks so
bad, the more you are going and constructed, the more it's a bit
laid back, but the more then you need to be careful in the way it
fits for it to fit nicely on you.
But then also the more informal you go, the less, I guess
classic you are in the sense stiff classic, we're talking
because, yeah, actually if we talk about because Neapolitan
style is considered very classic and it's extremely
unconstructed. Yeah, but still with the
Neapolitan shoulder they are, you still have those roped
shoulders. So you still have something that
is still quite masculine, I would say.
But if we are talking about something more modern, you have
like really completely disconstructed without any
padding and so on. It's more advanced and then you
need to be more careful on the way it's going to fit.
So you need to be more on point and maybe a bit more advanced in
your knowledge on power suit. Yeah, it's also when when you
guys want to order your maybe first or maybe one of the first
suits, it's it's easier to find a perfect fit with when the
fabric is thicker. But also, yeah, I mean, Hokerty
gives you this opportunity to test a lot of things.
You can see on the on the on the website how it will look like,
but also you you will get something that is quite
affordable. So if you're not going to be, if
you are not going to order some suit that you thought that maybe
it will be your style and you're not, it's not no, then it it's
not going to cost you that much. Exactly.
But well, interesting question. How classic would you say OCOTY
is then in your opinion? I mean, it depends, because even
casual stuff, it's pretty classical.
Yeah. You have field jacket.
It's a, it's a, it's a, it's a thing that has his his place in
menswear. Yeah.
So you, you don't have any like weird stuff.
You have stuff that are. Staples.
Yeah, exactly. You have trench coats, you have
coats, You have again, shirts, Henleys, you have some, some
some maybe more extravagant fabrics, some of them.
But still it's it's it's, it's made that, for example, somebody
that is new to menswear can find.
It will work, yeah, exactly. And I would say I agree totally.
I think that on this aspect they are they are very classic.
So they really help you building very classic pieces.
I would say, however, that in the cuts they are much more
modern. So if you want something that is
a bit more classic, and when I'm talking more classic, for
example, I arise a bit more space in the garment, this is
something that you need to specify.
You need to reach out to them, and you need to measure garments
that you own to open up a bit to say very specifically in.
Which space it's possible guys that that that you just see it's
not by by default in the in the Configurator.
It maybe it should be guys, Hokerty, Guys, if you're
listening to us, just make this because, you know, high rise,
high rise trousers. They're popular.
It's nothing that is extravagant right now, it's mainstream, so
maybe some update will come. It's, it's, it's becoming, but
I, I would say even if it's niche, it's a niche that is big
enough for them to actually propose it.
I mean more easily accessible because it is accessible.
They can do it. And so I think it's it can be
nice evolution to bring this possibility to people right
away. I must say that to their
defence, I understand why they don't necessarily do it right
away is because finding the right spot for a high rise is a
bit more demanding. It requires also for the
customer to know a bit better where.
You cannot change it afterwards. Afterwards you cannot change it,
so it requires. From customers to you can, but
it's a lot of. For what it is.
It's not worth. It better having it done right
from the start and for you as a customer it's only to measure
the from the crotch to the waist and from the seat also the
crotch but on the back on the seat because the pieces are
don't have the same length. Yeah, exactly.
Depends how. For example, if you have some
exact more prominent behind or your spine is a bit more, you
have more curved. So it's doable for you guys and
then you can go towards something more classic.
But for me, I would say that I don't.
If classic is dead, then it's it's for a reason.
Everything needs to evolve. So I think Mansfield.
Is menswear death? Yeah, exactly.
No, menswear is not dead at all. But I think that menswear is
much more plural. There's much more variety
nowadays on what style you can wear.
You don't just have casual St. wear and full suit.
No, no. You have a lot of different
Shades of Grey. Yeah, you can.
You can have field jackets, you can have white trousers, you can
have even slim trousers, for example, for like more rock
style. Yeah, yeah, you can have
everything. So I would say that classical
menswear garments are back in mainstream right now.
You know, loafers, you know where you have those white
trousers, high rise trousers. A lot of brands, like mainstream
brands, have it in their. Offer.
I think it's more an inspiration and I think that you can take,
if you are not completely a classic guy, you can still take
a piece here and there and sometimes add it to your to your
outfit. And just having on one outfit a
piece like this, just having some loafers, it will elevate
the old look and it will go with the old look.
Just wearing high rise trousers and wear your usual clothes
around it and you will see that just a single piece will already
elevate. Your just adding for example to
denim and AT shirt some cool penny loafers for example with
white apron that you can order. You can customise at Hockerty.
It will elevate your style. Something like, I don't know,
Michael Jackson would wear. And Michael Jackson is back on
trend now that there's the movies.
Yeah, exactly the the premiere was.
They're gonna receive a lot of wear, the configuration of shoes
and what's going on. Yeah, yeah, yeah.
But yeah. And the, the, the shoes are
Spanish made. So, so, so you get a lot of
quality for, for, for for good, good money.
Yeah. And yeah, like, I mean, menswear
is not that it's, it's, it's going good.
There are a lot of brands like that.
And Hokerty is one of one of the brands that we we had the
opportunity to to test and we we tested something from more
formal attire. You had the CIS soccer.
I had also CIS soccer. Yeah, classic menswear from 90s
thirties is dead because we're 100 years after that.
So that's the difference. There are some brands still
showing. Yeah, stuff like there are
people that are for. It's for some, for some it's
very niche. Exactly.
It's very niche and it's for me, to be honest.
I will be frank and a bit harsh. Like my environment where I grew
up, I, I were making this joke all the time because I've said
way too many times that I grew up in a harsh environment.
So now it's became a joke. I would say that for me, I find
as strange, accept them, it's fine.
But the guys that are wearing like in the 30s nowadays as the
girls that are wearing K pop stuff in the street, for me, I
look at them the same way. They are disguised, you know?
Yeah, exactly. Like those strange girls or guys
that are wearing like K pop stuff that are super weird.
I mean, it's cool. I mean, it's fashion.
It's it's, it's something to play with.
Yeah, exactly. For me, they are like going
super expressive fashion in worst case, because that's not
really relevant anymore, but inspiring yourself from this.
So I've seen guys that are from, yeah, they're starting from a
base that is more classic from the menswear that gets
inspiration from the 30s, but also from very modern things.
And it looks very cool. It's just on the fabric, on the
cuts, on the colours. Yeah.
Then they would wear things that are much more outside of the
box, much more. Maybe K Pop.
But what would be your crazy outfit that you could order?
Have you, have you, have you tried something?
When you were ordering from Hockerty, what was your?
What was your? I mean for me.
Do you have some something that you wanted to order?
Yeah, but for me it was really this CS sucker because I've
never worn like a very classic CS sucker with stripes like
this. It's a stronger pattern.
It's something that is supposedly classic, but also
when you're wearing it, it's a bit more out there.
So I wouldn't not necessarily have invested that much money
for a suit like this that I would wear very occasionally.
Yeah. But in this case I did it with
this one because the price was quite low and.
Also the the same high order it also Siyusaka.
That's funny because we were not talking about that.
Yeah, exactly. But accidentally we we have been
matching because to CS soccer but also not the same striping
so. I would, yeah, that's good
because it would be funny if we had the same, but also I would
like to see more soccer actually at Hockerty.
Yeah, I think they could do more.
And also the same tone of colours, you know, like tonal
colours. Not only not only white stripes
with different. Yeah, they have.
I think they have also white and brown C soccer.
Yeah, it's also cool. But you also had the white and
green. Yeah, yeah, I had yeah, it's, it
was the same, just different colour.
Yeah. And it, it was really cool.
Yeah. I I.
Like it, it is very cool and but maybe some tone on tone maybe
like full colour like midnight blue.
It would be a way for people to be a bit more formal and try
this fabric, which is. Because it's still.
Non formal because of the texture of suit soccer, but that
the colour is not so visible that it's no that it's so bright
and light and and maybe controversial for a lot of
people like ice cream guy. Yeah, that's but I would like to
see more pastel colours. Pastel.
Yeah, like pastel, but like a suit.
Full suit, yeah. Full suit, yeah.
Yeah. Like a.
Because it was, I think they have red or orange, but it was
too bright. I wanted to have something like
that because I don't think, I mean I have very weird suits
like pink suit and stuff, but I would like to have red suit but
maybe a bit toned down. I'm going actually for a red
jacket for PT. Yeah, yeah, stay tuned for this
one. That's interesting.
But you know, also the thing that I always wanted to try
those loafers with white, white apron.
I wanna, I, I think I'm gonna, I'm gonna try this.
By colour, yeah, exactly. Yeah, that actually they have
been a bit more out these days. I've seen more guys wearing them
and it can look very nice. We have a few friends that are
wearing them, thinking about Derek.
Yeah, Savio also is wearing them a lot.
So we have a few friends that that wear them and I, I mean
they managed to wear it very casually, actually.
I would like to try also more casual, like 5 pockets trousers,
maybe make them a bit wider. That would that, that's, that
would be actually a custom order from Hockerty because then you
need to reach out. But I also have other trousers
that could work well as a as a, as a pattern for, for, to order
it. Yeah, because it's just, you
know, you cannot have to less, too much trouser, too many
trousers. And I would say crazy thing that
I would be curious to try is to make a suit but with Asian
colour. Yeah, they have it, Yeah.
Yeah, full suit like this could be actually quite cool, Yeah.
But what fabric I? Would maybe linen?
Linen, but even like black or like tobacco.
Definitely black. I would definitely.
That would you want to be Steven Seagal?
Yeah. But you know he's.
Cancelled. I'm Steven Seagal.
He's cancelled. He he was up like man, you know,
we're not gonna cover those controversial.
I was that close. You'd say something very
controversial that need to be beeped, but.
Yeah. But you know, Manswear is not
dead because we are talking about Manswear, this whole
podcast about Manswear and it's the best podcast on the on the
market. If you wonder if it's dead, it's
to prove that it's not dead. It's not dead.
We are, we are very much alive here talking about about we, we,
we are so passionate, nerdy, nerdy about manswear that we
even have our own podcast. So guys, but what are your
struggles with the menswear? Do you think that it's it's dead
that you think that you need to, for example, talk that the talk
of the friends are talking. What are you, what are you
wearing today? What is it like, for example,
colleagues at work? Is it still is it still
controversial that a guy is interested in fashion?
I. Yeah, but that's I.
Don't think are we interested in fashion or we are we just like
I. Think we we have.
Nice clothes. I think we want to have style.
We want to stand out and we want to bring something more than we
want to stand out. I don't really want to stand
out. I want, I don't want to stick
out from the crowd necessarily or not in that sense, not in a
visual sense. But it's more that I want to
bring something, you know, I want to bring something a bit
different. I want to inspire people.
I want to be cool. It's like when I was at school,
I want I, I was like trying to find a nice sneaker that no one
else would have and that everyone will say, wow, those
are cool. And you can, you can now you can
customise it at Hokerty. Yeah, exactly.
But that's the follow up on this.
It's like when I was a teen, I wanted the cool sneakers.
You have guys in every level, in every environment from the
ghettos, you have guys that want the cool shoes, you know, steel.
But we're doing the same, but in our environment.
In our environment, it's not the cool shoes anymore.
It's like, yeah, these cool trousers, these cool belts and
these cool outfits, so. Yeah, it's made for you for for
you especially. Yeah, we want to bring something
on the table. I think we just want to bring
more. I think it's people that I'm
passionate about things and anything that is related to your
own life is just they have more life in them.
They are like they want to bring something on the table and
that's good. Everyone needs that, those
people around themselves. But also I think that Mentor is
not only for people that are interested in fashion that are
spending a lot of time because for example, if you go on on the
on the Hockerty website or a lot of other brands, you have a lot
of examples how to wear it. Yeah.
So you just you, you, you just choose something that is already
there. Yeah, exactly.
Customise maybe some stuff that OK, you like this or that and
like at Turnip or without and, and you're done.
And you can have and you can have clothes for from Monday to
Friday and Saturday to Sunday. Yeah, yeah, exactly.
You, you can build your world wardrobe on this.
Yeah. I would say that for people that
are not so into menswear, actually it's interesting
because you have things that are comfortable that will be dressed
to your side. So it's going to be much better
and much more durable and you're gonna look much better in them.
But also you are not so much into clothes, so you don't wanna
put too much money into it. So then you're the good person
for what Orchid is proposing. It's cheaper and still the made
to your needs I would say. So for that, that's super
interesting to try it. And just still you look just
well put together. Yeah, exactly.
And that's, I mean, that's a base.
I would say, and it's not controversial, those clothes are
just made how they should be. Yeah, no, exactly.
So no, again, a certain type of menswear is dead because it's
like every culture, I think a culture.
It just evolved. It evolved exactly.
Otherwise it dies. So it would be dead if it
couldn't have evolved. But you can tell that the suit
from nowadays you can have very. And we are still talking about
classic. We are not going as far as
saying you should wear modern shoes that are too tight or made
with spandex or whatever. Yeah, you know, like.
In in 90s people thought that in 2026 men will will wear like
cosmic suits, you know? But you've probably seen this
guy that is wearing like a latex suits like a shirt latex and
everyone's everything is in latex, yeah.
But it's a it's a king. I think so, yeah.
But it's not, we're not going to cover this part of menswear.
Not today, at least. So that's not our point.
But we are still on classic. But what we think is classic and
what is timeless is proportion. And I would say that in the 30s
there was trends, in the 40s there was trends.
So every 10 years there was trends in the way people were
wearing their clothes. And what is actually a worthless
someone, what is actually a classic is to stay
proportionate. And if you go to the bespoke
Catalia, this is something that they they will make you
understand. They more or less are always
looking the same because disregarding the time, they are
always trying to make something that will be comfortable wearing
that will be proportionate based on your body lines also and
proportions is something that will always work.
In 10,000 years, being proportionate will still
visually be pleasing for the for the.
Ice Yeah, there are some trends also.
Maybe two big pants, 2 high rise or something.
Big blood belts also. Yeah, we have seen it all.
Yeah. But right now I think it's
everything is quite balanced. Yeah, yeah, it is.
You will always see people like pushing a bit.
Maybe those trousers are maybe maybe too too white.
Yeah, but they are also coming in context.
They are much more casual, so going a bit more out in a casual
outfit and still OK. It's very wide, but also you're
a bigger guy, so compared to your body it doesn't feel crazy.
It's not like those super skinny guys that are wearing those type
of trousers. Then it feels a bit like that's
a trend that's not really proportionate.
So proportions are important. So if you if you maintain the
rules of classic menswear, then it means that classic menswear
is not dead because we are still following the basic rules of
aesthetic proportions and so on. And also Hokerty gives you this
opportunity that you can try many stuff, a lot of options.
Yeah, everything online, you don't need to go anywhere.
And it's affordable. It's affordable.
I think everyone can afford this.
And I I would love everyone that could afford this and try it by
themselves. We were talking about this
outside. SO OCOTY leaves us very free to
say whatever we want. And and if we are talking about
OCOTY again, it's because we believe that it's good in in its
context. So what they are providing for
their price is very good. And I think that for and we have
been identifying along those different podcast who it is I
create for. And and I would say that in this
context, it's very good and it's very interesting.
And you can push them a bit further.
You can ask them different design option that maybe you
cannot see from the website. It's going to be an extra cost,
but you can even push it a bit further to make it more classic
and something that you will be pleased wearing longer.
But we were talking about this earlier, if I take the first
suit I was wearing, which was a Zara suit, yeah.
And I was so proud to wear it. Yeah, it was very bad compared
to this Orkut suit that is around the same price and I.
I think yeah, the price right now the.
Price is the same, yeah. And, and it's yet much better
garment in terms of fabric cut, design options and just yeah,
classicalness it, it is a much better than the one that I wore
like 20 years ago when I was trying my first suits.
Yeah, that's a great summary of those 4 episodes, actually.
Yeah. So it's nice, like guys just
play with fashion. Yeah, Affordable fashion for the
beginners, yeah, but also for somebody that wanna just try
something different. Yeah, absolutely.
You can go a bit more advance and the quality will be good.
They have a good team behind themselves.
They you should not expect something crazy.
It's still you can have suit in between €250 and 350, so in that
range which is very cheap. So don't expect a big bespoke
suit, but you can expect to well put together suit with the
decent fabrics and decent cuts which is not.
Ordered comfortably from your coach.
Yeah, from home. So for that they are definitely
in the entrance level, some of the best proposition in the
market and we can vouch for that at least.
Yeah, and I think from your couch, not from your coach.
Yeah, your coach. You need to ask me feel.
Great, you need to ask your coach, but you can.
You can order from your couch. With your coach.
Exactly or even from any other? So far, yeah.
Be careful. We're gonna be cancelled if we
keep going that line. OK guys, so I hope that you like
those four 4 episodes. Give leave us a comment how you
like Hockerty and what garment you're gonna order and what
outfit was the best. Exactly what did you prefer from
those 4 episode? What outfits that we were
wearing was the best? I think I I started to like this
field jacket even more. It yeah, it just looks, it just
looks much more expensive that it was.
Yeah. And that's cool.
That's a good time. And it's.
Dinner and yeah, yeah, I like it.
Yeah, I think it's gonna edge in a nice way actually.
Very fresh. OK, guys.
See you. Later.
See you in the next one. Ciao guys.