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Hello everyone. 
I'm Diane Grissell, also known 

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by some of you as Silver 
Disbedience. 

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This is the Silver Disbedience 
Perception Dynamics podcast. 

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And again, I am so excited we 
are producing these shows in 

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collaboration with Manhattan 
Center. 

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We're in TV 2 right now where a 
lot of really wonderful artists 

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have worked, recorded, 
practiced, so it is so much fun 

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to be in this. 
I feel the good mojo and the 

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juju as we start every one of 
these episodes and today this is

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going to be really fascinating. 
We I met Sue Phillips a while 

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ago, and she is one of the 
world's most established iconic 

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fragrance experts. 
She created fragrances for 

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Tiffany's, for Diane von 
Furstenberg, for Burberry, and 

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we have her here today. 
And we're going to be talking 

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about the tie in between 
fragrance and our identities. 

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So, Sue, thank you so much for 
joining. 

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Thank you so much for having me.
It's so lovely to be here. 

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Great studio and you look 
terrific and thank you for 

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having me. 
Thank you, and I smell good too,

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thanks to a scent you just gave 
me and I'm honored to be 

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wearing. 
Very happy you like it. 

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So Sue, how we need to start 
somewhere at the beginning. 

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How does somebody become so 
aligned with scent to make this 

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your entire career and passion? 
Well, it really was all 

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serendipitous. 
I didn't have anything in my 

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sort of career mind focused to 
be in fragrance. 

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In fact, I was a singer and an 
actress in South Africa. 

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But my mother was an amazing 
artist and a homemaker, A 

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pianist and musician and an 
incredible entertainer. 

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And so I grew up with a lot of 
multi sensory experiences, which

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I didn't even know at the time. 
It was just automatic. 

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You know, you came home, you 
practice the piano, you went, 

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you know, watch your mom cooking
or baking. 

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Then she had these beautiful 
parties. 

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And then I would go into her 
studio and I see her painting 

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and doing calligraphy. 
So art, music, food was always 

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part of my, you know, focus. 
And what happened was when I 

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came to America, because I had 
auditioned for a theatrical 

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position at RADA, Royal Academy 
of Dramatic Art, because I grew 

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up as a singer and an actress. 
And sadly they didn't accept me 

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because they were about, I don't
know, 1500 applicants for maybe 

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10 positions. 
So I came to New York. 

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My brother was living here by 
this stage I'd seen New York. 

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I'd fallen in love with it and I
decided to emigrate and come 

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here. 
So I went to an immigration 

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attorney and he said what do you
do? 

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I said I'm a singer and actress.
He said forget that we have 

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20,000 out of work singers and 
we don't need another one. 

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And but he actually offered me a
position. 

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He hired me to be his office 
assistant and manager and he 

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said he would process my green 
card. 

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So at night I'd go singing and 
acting. 

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During the day I'd work in his 
office and at the end of the 

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year I got my green card and I 
had three job offers from a 

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through a headhunter. 1 was in 
banking, definitely not for me. 

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One was in fashion, and I didn't
know much about fashion at that 

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time because we were actually 
ostracized from the rest of the 

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world because of the South 
African politics. 

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The third job offer was to work 
at Elizabeth Arden. 

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And I said, aha, fragrance, 
cosmetics, it aligned with all 

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the things that I loved. 
Art, music, food were just a 

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wonderful sort of confluence of 
all the things that I loved. 

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And that's how I started in the 
cosmetic industry. 

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I was the national training 
director for Elizabeth Arden. 

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I had to learn about fragrance. 
They told me I had to go to 

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Macy's. 
They positioned me there as an 

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quote intern where I learned 
about how to talk to the 

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customer, how to relate to the 
customer, what fragrances they 

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would like. 
So it was really, you know, 

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one-on-one and on the job 
training and I landed up 

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eventually travelling around the
the country doing fragrance 

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seminars and training seminars 
for Elizabeth Arden's 

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fragrances. 
And then they promoted me to 

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marketing and product 
development. 

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Then Lancome hired me as 
marketing director for fragrance

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and men's skin care. 
And then finally Tiffany hired 

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me as executive vice president 
and I created and launched the 

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first Tiffany perfume. 
So it, it's remarkable. 

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It goes on after that, but that 
was that's sort of the beginning

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of it. 
You know what this I I've never 

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been able to remember the book, 
but did you ever read the Harold

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Robbins book where he it's about
the perfume, the. 

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Jitterbug, I have it. 
What was what? 

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Which one was it? 
It's called the Jitterbug. 

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Yeah, and Oh my gosh, it was 
such insight into what goes in 

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to perfume and how huge the 
industry you is. 

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You don't think about it and 
then all of a sudden you'll be 

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reading about some celebrity, 
maybe it's Nikki Hilton or 

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something like that and you'll 
or Paris Hilton more so. 

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And you'll see the amount of 
money she makes broken down, but

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it's primarily from her perfume.
Oh, absolutely. 

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See, licensing is such a huge 
thing. 

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It's such a huge part of 
building a brand. 

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Most designers and most 
celebrities will then license 

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their name to big conglomerates 
and big companies to do 

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fragrance because fragrance is a
much lower price point than of a

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couture designer or a 
celebrity's personal appearance.

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So for maybe 150 or 200 or $300,
you can buy into the DNA the 

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brand of either a celebrity or a
a fashion designer as opposed to

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a $5000 couture dress. 
But you can say I'm wearing 

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Paris or I'm wearing Chanel or 
I'm wearing whatever. 

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So you get that wonderful sort 
of cross marketing opinion and 

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and focus because you're wearing
the the design or the 

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celebrities brand fragrance as 
opposed to wearing, you know, 

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Chanel outfit for thousands of 
dollars. 

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And you reminded me of a very 
funny story since you mentioned 

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Chanel and how you can buy into 
a brand when our daughter was 

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probably 12 or 13, whenever 
Abercrombie was at its super all

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time high and every, you know, 
preteen and teen wanted to wear 

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Abercrombie clothes and be just 
like the models in those ads. 

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I remember going into the stores
and you wanted to gag because 

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the perfume was shooting out of 
everything. 

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And not only did you want to gag
while you were there, then you 

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of course your child wanted to 
own a bottle of that perfume. 

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And I remember going out and 
saying, OK, if you want to wear 

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perfume, I bought her a bottle 
of Chanel #5 OK. 

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And she's like, mom, I can't 
wear this. 

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Everyone says I smell like their
grandmother anyway. 

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Well, that's yes, on both. 
On the both subjects, 

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Abercrombie and Fitch was one of
the forerunners of scent 

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marketing or scent branding in 
stores. 

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So when in Las Vegas, you know, 
to try and overcome the smoke 

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odours because in casinos 
everybody was smoking. 

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And in fact, I worked with the 
company and I landed up working 

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and doing fragrances for them. 
They wanted to ameliorate the 

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smoke odors in these casinos. 
So they put in an air 

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conditioning system and somebody
had the bright idea, why do we 

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put in a fresh scent? 
So they put in a lemon scent. 

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And what happened was through 
the air conditioning system, the

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HVAC system, it would diffuse 
the scent of the citrus or the 

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lemon, whatever it was. 
And it stimulated people. 

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It woke people up. 
It gave a very nice aroma in the

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casinos and that was the 
forerunner of scent marketing in

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all these casinos throughout Las
Vegas and basically throughout 

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the world. 
And many companies also create 

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these fragrance aroma, they 
diffuse it in these HVA systems 

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and so on to also reflect the 
brand essence. 

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You know, is it a corporation? 
Is it a fun place? 

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Is it in Florida with its light 
and citrusy? 

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Or is it a very beautiful Okie 
mall, classical building or or 

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room with wood panelled, oak 
panelled, you know, so it would 

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be a different fragrance. 
So that was sort of the 

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forerunner of scent marketing 
and branding. 

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The comment that your daughter 
made I hear all the time. 

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So that's an interesting story. 
When Chanel, when Coco Chanel 

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wanted to create her fragrance, 
this was in the 19, early, very 

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early 1920s, she was of becoming
a couture designer and she 

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realized that fragrance would be
a really great extension of her 

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brand of a fashion brand. 
She went to a very famous 

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perfumer called Ernest Bo BEAUX 
and she said, Monsieur, I want 

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to make a fragrance for the 
women I'm closing. 

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I want to make something fresh 
and feminine in very modern. 

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And at that time, everything in 
the fragrance industry was very 

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high quality, natural 
ingredients. 

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And he was concocting formulas 
with a new molecule which was 

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called aldehyde or aldehyde, a 
combination of al from alcohol 

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and dehydrogenated carbon zone. 
So that became the word 

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aldehydic. 
And aldehydic was a formula that

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was a molecule, but he infused 
it with some naturals. 

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So it was a very powdery Monica 
molecule. 

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And he infused with some rose 
and Jasmine and so on. 

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And he concocted this formula. 
So when she came to see him, he 

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showed her all the different 
fragrances, and she smelled the 

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first, second, third, fourth. 
Suddenly the fifth one, she 

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said, oh, La La si magnifi gets 
so different. 

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And it was this aldehyde 
formula, this molecule that was 

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so different in the 1920s 
because everything in the 1920s 

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was heavy and spicy and really 
dark. 

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And this suddenly was powdery 
and different. 

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But what happened was it became 
so popular. 

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Oh, So what happened was he went
back to she said, you know, 

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Jalam, I love it. 
He went back to his lab and he 

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said to his assistant Jacques, 
what did you do? 

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You put too much Elder Hidicon. 
See formula. 

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It's a mistake. 
Guess what? 

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The most profitable mistake in 
perfume history, but at that 

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time. 
Because as soon as you said 

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powdery, I can picture in that 
sense, no matter where I am, I 

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could walk down 5th Ave. or you 
know W 34th St. and say that 

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person has on Chanel #5. 
But what happened? 

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Another thing that makes Rose a 
little bit kind of old fashioned

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is because our mothers and 
grandmothers used to have a face

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powder that was also scented 
with rose. 

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And so when you put on the face 
powder and, and your children or

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whatever our mothers and 
grandmothers wore that we would 

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kiss the grandmother or the 
mother hello. 

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And the first thing you would 
think of is Oh, old lady, 

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because that was the you see, 
scent and memory are so 

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connected. 
So it's it's so tragic because I

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think rose is magnificent. 
There are rose powdery notes, 

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which can be a little old 
fashioned. 

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The Alder hit. 
It definitely has that Chanel 

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vibe. 
But I'm telling everybody, give 

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florals a chance. 
Give rose and I made you a 

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floral fragrance which has a lot
of beautiful rose, rose, 

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Jasmine, gardenia, frangipani, 
lilia, the valley and and 

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cyclamen. 
Because to me, you have that 

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beautiful sort of sense of 
femininity, and to me, that's 

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what flowers are about. 
Well, it's interesting you say 

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give the Rose, Give the Rose a 
try. 

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Lancome just sent me the most 
stunning gift, and I've done 

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some different campaigns with 
them. 

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And at first it was a book. 
I couldn't figure out why this 

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was so heavy. 
There was this book hidden of 

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all different rose gardens 
throughout the world. 

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But it is 15 or 20 little tiny 
samples of their new rose line 

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that they are launching. 
So rose is the base, OK. 

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And they add Musk to this or 
Rosemary to this or Fern to 

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this. 
It just smells delicious. 

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Each 10 Bravo. 
I worked at Lancome. 

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I know you mentioned that. 
And at that time I was helping 

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to develop the well. 
I was working on the original 

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fragrance that they used and 
they had what's called Maggie 

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Noir. 
Black magic and it was a heavy 

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shipra which was dark and 
Patchouli and Marcy like when? 

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Opium was launched. 
It was. 

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That's kind of, yes. 
It was a little more Patchouli 

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though, and very sophisticated, 
very European and not really 

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popular with Americans. 
But you know, as being miss, 

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They used to call me Miss Maji 
because I was out there pumping 

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and promoting and, you know, 
really positioning Maji noise, 

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the fragrance. 
And then I helped to start to 

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work on Tazor, which was the new
fragrant. 

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And then I never launched it 
because Tiffany hired me. 

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So I was whisked away from 
Lancome, but it's lovely that 

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Lancome was coming because that 
was actually the heritage. 

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You know, their logo is a rose, 
so it's great that they're 

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promoting a rose fragrance. 
One of my other favorite Lancome

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campaigns I ever did was La 
Villa Spell, yes, and that, and 

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I had never smelled that before.
But oh, that's just a delightful

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1. 
But it's funny too. 

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You talk about since being, you 
know, put into things. 

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I think probably 1 of the only 
reasons I consistently go by 

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Chanel blush is there is some, I
don't know which of their 

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perfumes is infused in that 
blush, but as soon as I put it 

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on my face, I'm smiling. 
I just what is that connection 

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between scent and how we feel? 
It is absolutely critical and it

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is absolutely, you know, that is
the hallmark of fragrance 

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00:14:36,920 --> 00:14:43,000
because our our olfactory 
system, our olfactory is totally

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connected to our limbic system, 
to the brain. 

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So when you smell something, 
this aroma goes straight to the 

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00:14:50,960 --> 00:14:54,040
limbic system and it triggers a 
memory or emotion. 

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00:14:54,440 --> 00:14:59,000
And So what you smell at the 
time will remind you of what 

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you're seeing or thinking or 
experiencing at the time. 

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And scent and memory are so 
aligned and so triggered that, 

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00:15:06,760 --> 00:15:09,960
you know, you can not see 
somebody or hear or think of 

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00:15:09,960 --> 00:15:13,680
somebody, but you can maybe 
smell something that will take 

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00:15:13,680 --> 00:15:17,720
you right back to when you're 
maybe high school or grade 5 or 

249
00:15:17,720 --> 00:15:22,520
whatever, because it's such a 
powerful, powerful connection. 

250
00:15:23,360 --> 00:15:25,000
And. 
I always think of the first 

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00:15:25,000 --> 00:15:29,080
woman I babysat for any time I 
smell Clinique aromatics. 

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00:15:29,400 --> 00:15:34,200
It's like Wendy. 
You see, I mean, you see in your

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00:15:34,280 --> 00:15:38,160
that that's a prime example. 
The other thing that is so 

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00:15:38,160 --> 00:15:41,400
critical about fragrance is that
it's tied into our sense of 

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00:15:41,400 --> 00:15:45,280
taste. 
So this thing right here can go 

256
00:15:45,280 --> 00:15:47,600
up to the memory and down to the
taste. 

257
00:15:47,600 --> 00:15:51,720
And so scent and memory, taste 
and smell are very connected. 

258
00:15:52,400 --> 00:15:54,800
And there's the. 
Division when it comes with 

259
00:15:54,800 --> 00:15:57,720
perfumes then. 
Well, it's perfume, So what 

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00:15:57,720 --> 00:16:01,920
you're smelling on the perfume 
will trigger a memory and will 

261
00:16:01,920 --> 00:16:05,960
help you think about something 
that from maybe from the past or

262
00:16:05,960 --> 00:16:10,080
it will give you that feeling of
happiness and, and confidence 

263
00:16:10,080 --> 00:16:12,480
that you know you're smelling. 
You just said when you wear 

264
00:16:12,480 --> 00:16:16,560
that, that rose blush, it makes 
you feel happy and confident 

265
00:16:16,920 --> 00:16:20,640
because there's something in 
that formula that has a scent or

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00:16:20,640 --> 00:16:23,560
an aroma that gives you that 
feeling of, you know, the 

267
00:16:23,960 --> 00:16:26,040
dopamine that really makes you 
feel good. 

268
00:16:27,000 --> 00:16:30,120
And what happened during COVID 
was something really tragic. 

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00:16:30,600 --> 00:16:36,560
People lost their sense of smell
because that was one of the the 

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00:16:36,560 --> 00:16:41,560
problems during COVID, the 
disorder that the olfactory bulb

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00:16:42,320 --> 00:16:45,240
couldn't smell and it, it went 
it also to the taste, you 

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00:16:45,240 --> 00:16:50,400
couldn't taste. 
So during COVID, many people who

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never even thought about their 
sense of smell, you know, having

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00:16:53,200 --> 00:16:55,320
a cup of coffee in the morning 
and smelling that wonderful 

275
00:16:55,320 --> 00:16:58,280
coffee aroma, suddenly they 
didn't smell the aroma. 

276
00:16:58,920 --> 00:17:01,040
What's going on here? 
They didn't realize it. 

277
00:17:01,400 --> 00:17:04,599
It was one of the symptoms of 
COVID anosmia. 

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00:17:05,160 --> 00:17:08,640
And millions of people 
throughout the world, throughout

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00:17:08,640 --> 00:17:11,599
the ages have lost their sense 
of smell, but they don't think 

280
00:17:11,599 --> 00:17:15,400
about it because it's nothing 
that we are taught from the 

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00:17:15,400 --> 00:17:18,760
second we're born, we align with
our mothers because of that 

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00:17:19,040 --> 00:17:24,280
aroma, olfactory connection. 
And suddenly millions of people 

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00:17:24,280 --> 00:17:27,760
were affected by anosmia and 
they realized they couldn't 

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00:17:27,760 --> 00:17:31,480
smell and they couldn't taste. 
And so people really went into a

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00:17:31,480 --> 00:17:38,000
huge depression because think 
about this, everything to do 

286
00:17:38,080 --> 00:17:40,640
with socialization revolves 
around food. 

287
00:17:40,920 --> 00:17:43,640
It's made for lunch, for 
breakfast, for dinner, you know,

288
00:17:43,640 --> 00:17:46,680
parties, occasions, 
anniversaries, it's all got a 

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00:17:46,680 --> 00:17:50,920
food and, and wine and smell 
connection. 

290
00:17:51,400 --> 00:17:55,080
Suddenly you can't smell, you 
can't taste. 

291
00:17:55,840 --> 00:17:58,320
People got depressed, they 
didn't want to go out there and 

292
00:17:58,320 --> 00:18:04,120
people literally and. 
So there's a big scent and mood 

293
00:18:04,120 --> 00:18:07,240
connection completely. 
Oh scent How? 

294
00:18:08,360 --> 00:18:11,200
How? 
Because assuming we can smell, 

295
00:18:11,200 --> 00:18:15,800
yes, where does that mood come 
in? 

296
00:18:15,800 --> 00:18:19,880
Could certain cells smells make 
us feel less happy than others? 

297
00:18:19,880 --> 00:18:23,040
Absolutely. 
And it also goes to trigger a 

298
00:18:23,040 --> 00:18:24,720
memory. 
So let's let's talk about 

299
00:18:24,720 --> 00:18:27,480
vanilla. 
So everybody, most people love 

300
00:18:27,480 --> 00:18:30,200
vanilla because it makes you 
feel happy. 

301
00:18:30,200 --> 00:18:32,880
And that's something, you know, 
vanilla cookies, vanilla ice 

302
00:18:32,880 --> 00:18:35,960
cream, vanilla lollipops. 
You know, when your mom, when 

303
00:18:35,960 --> 00:18:39,720
you fell, you maybe to make you 
feel better, you got vanilla 

304
00:18:39,720 --> 00:18:42,560
lollipop or vanilla ice cream. 
So that made you feel better. 

305
00:18:42,680 --> 00:18:47,480
But the converse is what happens
if you really broke something 

306
00:18:47,520 --> 00:18:50,960
and you fell and you couldn't 
walk for six months and then 

307
00:18:50,960 --> 00:18:53,840
suddenly your mom or the nurse 
gives you something vanilla and 

308
00:18:53,840 --> 00:18:56,400
you're saying, oh, this reminds 
you of when I fell. 

309
00:18:56,800 --> 00:18:58,560
So you see, the converse is 
true. 

310
00:18:58,840 --> 00:19:01,440
It's a vanilla, which is a 
wonderful aroma. 

311
00:19:01,680 --> 00:19:05,680
An ingredient can trigger bad 
memories or good memories. 

312
00:19:05,680 --> 00:19:10,680
And it's it doesn't doesn't mean
it doesn't really rely on what 

313
00:19:11,120 --> 00:19:13,600
fragrance or scent or ingredient
it is. 

314
00:19:14,000 --> 00:19:17,360
It is a connection to the 
experience, to the memory, to 

315
00:19:17,360 --> 00:19:21,600
the activity at the time. 
So you have worked and advised a

316
00:19:21,600 --> 00:19:24,960
lot of. 
Companies, when they are 

317
00:19:24,960 --> 00:19:27,800
launching a perfume, when 
they're thinking about creating 

318
00:19:27,800 --> 00:19:32,000
a scent, how do you help them 
avoid that quagmire of all those

319
00:19:32,000 --> 00:19:34,080
negative memories? 
What's does it? 

320
00:19:34,080 --> 00:19:38,240
Is it a blend of things so one 
is not more overpowering? 

321
00:19:39,240 --> 00:19:43,280
First of all, it's understanding
what the brand ethos is. 

322
00:19:44,160 --> 00:19:51,720
You know, a fragrance for a 
rocking a rock star, or you know

323
00:19:51,720 --> 00:19:55,600
somebody who's a, you know, 20. 
Justin Bieber. 

324
00:19:55,720 --> 00:19:57,440
Justin Bieber. 
He's got a scent. 

325
00:19:57,480 --> 00:20:00,240
Right. 
That would not work well for 

326
00:20:00,520 --> 00:20:06,080
somebody who's a classic, maybe 
pianist or an architect because 

327
00:20:06,120 --> 00:20:10,920
or a brand or a company that has
maybe an older demographic. 

328
00:20:11,400 --> 00:20:15,960
So everything that I do revolves
around the brand ethos. 

329
00:20:15,960 --> 00:20:17,960
What is it, what who's the 
demographic? 

330
00:20:17,960 --> 00:20:20,200
Where is their, who's their 
audience base? 

331
00:20:20,200 --> 00:20:22,080
Who's where, who are they 
selling to? 

332
00:20:22,440 --> 00:20:25,840
What is the advertising of the 
tagline? 

333
00:20:26,640 --> 00:20:30,320
If it has a young vibe, then it 
should be something light and 

334
00:20:30,320 --> 00:20:33,360
bright and citrusy, not heavy 
and dark. 

335
00:20:33,360 --> 00:20:39,040
And so I equate different 
ingredients with a different 

336
00:20:39,040 --> 00:20:42,920
demographic and a different 
sensitivity and sensibility. 

337
00:20:44,120 --> 00:20:50,120
Somebody who's somebody who's, 
you know, very, let's say as a 

338
00:20:50,120 --> 00:20:53,880
woman who's very sophisticated, 
who's wearing Chanel, who's 

339
00:20:53,880 --> 00:20:58,840
wearing, you know, and it also 
depends on her age. 

340
00:20:59,440 --> 00:21:06,600
So there are certain fragrances 
that will embellish and reflect 

341
00:21:07,120 --> 00:21:11,160
that demographic, that vibe, 
that brand, and there are others

342
00:21:11,160 --> 00:21:14,360
that will be a total disconnect.
Does that also have to do with 

343
00:21:14,360 --> 00:21:18,200
hormones, like hormones that 
might be more prevalent in 

344
00:21:18,200 --> 00:21:22,400
someone younger, you know, 
connecting with that scent 

345
00:21:22,520 --> 00:21:26,200
versus someone who's older? 
Well, I think, I think 

346
00:21:26,280 --> 00:21:31,080
definitely has to do with age, 
possibly hormones. 

347
00:21:31,080 --> 00:21:35,040
I, I'm not a scientist, so I 
don't really can go and talk 

348
00:21:35,040 --> 00:21:39,720
about that, But you know, we 
hormones will also give you a 

349
00:21:39,720 --> 00:21:44,120
sense of either feeling 
confident and happy or it'll 

350
00:21:44,120 --> 00:21:48,200
start to get you crazy and get 
you, you know, agitated 

351
00:21:48,520 --> 00:21:51,040
depending on where you are 
searching for women and where 

352
00:21:51,040 --> 00:21:55,600
they are in their cycle. 
But I don't think it has. 

353
00:21:57,440 --> 00:22:00,400
I I'm not sure about fragrance 
with hormones, but I know 

354
00:22:00,400 --> 00:22:03,160
fragrance and memory and 
connecting your brand essence is

355
00:22:03,400 --> 00:22:09,520
something that people look for. 
And when you, when you think of,

356
00:22:09,520 --> 00:22:14,840
let's say the scent, the Dior 
scent that Johnny Depp 

357
00:22:15,760 --> 00:22:23,240
advertises versus yeah, okay, do
you, where do you think the 

358
00:22:23,240 --> 00:22:28,640
marketing is versus the scent 
that makes, let's say a guy will

359
00:22:28,640 --> 00:22:32,360
bring guys into this discussion,
makes a guy say I'm going to be 

360
00:22:32,520 --> 00:22:36,560
cooler, sexy or this or that? 
The minute I put that on, how 

361
00:22:36,560 --> 00:22:40,080
much do you think is the 
advertising versus the cent or 

362
00:22:40,080 --> 00:22:43,080
is it just the whole thing 
versus Johnny Depp, you know? 

363
00:22:43,680 --> 00:22:47,640
Well, I think also certain 
companies want to align 

364
00:22:47,640 --> 00:22:50,280
themselves with certain 
celebrities for the marquee 

365
00:22:50,280 --> 00:22:54,280
value. 
Now, truthfully, you know, Au 

366
00:22:54,280 --> 00:22:57,280
Sauvage is a classic deal men's 
fragrance. 

367
00:22:57,280 --> 00:23:00,400
It's got citrus notes, it's got 
some spicy notes. 

368
00:23:00,960 --> 00:23:06,720
It's a sophisticated fragrance 
that was always for basically 

369
00:23:06,720 --> 00:23:09,840
young men. 
It has a citrus brightness and 

370
00:23:09,840 --> 00:23:14,720
it has a youth element to it. 
Here comes Johnny Depp, who's 

371
00:23:14,720 --> 00:23:18,000
totally the antithesis of that. 
He's not youthful. 

372
00:23:18,000 --> 00:23:20,680
He's not, you know, a citrus 
vibe. 

373
00:23:20,680 --> 00:23:23,880
He's he can be a little dark. 
He can be a little, you know, 

374
00:23:23,880 --> 00:23:26,160
the Pirates of Caribbean and all
these things, these. 

375
00:23:26,760 --> 00:23:29,960
But he's a name. 
And I think he did the blue He 

376
00:23:30,080 --> 00:23:33,960
he also did, yeah, something 
blue, I think blue Chanel. 

377
00:23:35,080 --> 00:23:40,320
So there are companies that will
tie into a celebrity for the 

378
00:23:40,320 --> 00:23:44,040
marquee value. 
And it has nothing to do with 

379
00:23:44,040 --> 00:23:47,760
the fragrance. 
To me, that's not such a good 

380
00:23:47,760 --> 00:23:50,640
idea. 
I mean, I think America is 

381
00:23:50,680 --> 00:23:52,880
totally obsessed with 
celebrities. 

382
00:23:53,480 --> 00:24:00,400
And sometimes the celebrity 
connotation and partnership and 

383
00:24:00,400 --> 00:24:04,520
branding works, and sometimes it
doesn't at all. 

384
00:24:04,960 --> 00:24:08,600
I would agree with that. 
I mean, I will say there, I'm 

385
00:24:08,600 --> 00:24:11,880
sure there's, this is maybe it's
terrible for me to say, but 

386
00:24:12,520 --> 00:24:15,440
where we have blunt 
conversations here, I'm sure 

387
00:24:15,440 --> 00:24:18,520
there are some celebrity that if
I knew they were advertising in 

388
00:24:18,520 --> 00:24:25,040
particular perfume or fragrance,
it would be the last one I would

389
00:24:25,040 --> 00:24:29,160
want to be known to say with. 
So it's very interesting talk 

390
00:24:29,600 --> 00:24:32,160
talking about that marketing and
the the risk there. 

391
00:24:32,440 --> 00:24:37,040
Yeah, and, and some celebrities 
are so, you know, besotted about

392
00:24:37,440 --> 00:24:42,480
the money and the royalties that
it might be hard to turn down. 

393
00:24:42,480 --> 00:24:45,640
But you know, in that in those 
instances, I think that they're 

394
00:24:45,640 --> 00:24:51,240
selling out or the companies are
selling out to a celebrity 

395
00:24:51,240 --> 00:24:55,280
because celebrities also have to
protect their brand image. 

396
00:24:58,040 --> 00:25:03,000
I remember years ago when Cher 
launched her fragrance, I think 

397
00:25:03,000 --> 00:25:05,120
it was called Unforgotten or 
and. 

398
00:25:05,520 --> 00:25:09,040
Something like that. 
And you know, everything about 

399
00:25:09,040 --> 00:25:10,720
it was awful. 
They launched it. 

400
00:25:11,560 --> 00:25:15,000
They launched it in a very 
select tight distribution. 

401
00:25:15,320 --> 00:25:20,400
You know, Cher was a worldwide 
celebrity and, and an artist and

402
00:25:20,400 --> 00:25:22,960
a brilliant actress and, you 
know, not to take anything away 

403
00:25:22,960 --> 00:25:28,520
from her, but her notoriety and 
her fanbase was, you know, all 

404
00:25:28,520 --> 00:25:31,480
over the world. 
And the company launched it in a

405
00:25:31,480 --> 00:25:38,600
very select distribution. 
And the, you know, I, I got that

406
00:25:38,600 --> 00:25:42,400
the cap fell off the cut, the 
fragrance discoloured the, the 

407
00:25:42,400 --> 00:25:45,320
bottle. 
And so everything about it was 

408
00:25:45,920 --> 00:25:50,000
forgettable. 
And I, and I, I'm sorry 

409
00:25:50,000 --> 00:25:53,280
everybody, but I think but the 
fragrance is called Unforgotten 

410
00:25:53,280 --> 00:25:57,000
or Miss or something like that. 
And people didn't like it. 

411
00:25:57,000 --> 00:26:01,400
You know, I'll tell you, Lady 
Gaga, when she launched her 

412
00:26:01,400 --> 00:26:06,840
first fragrance and it was all 
the ingredients were all really 

413
00:26:06,840 --> 00:26:11,800
awful, blood, sperm. 
And she came up with this bottle

414
00:26:11,800 --> 00:26:15,320
and they launched it at Macy's. 
And it was a huge flop because, 

415
00:26:15,800 --> 00:26:21,000
you know, Lady Gaga is such a 
brilliant personality and the 

416
00:26:21,000 --> 00:26:25,480
talent, but she went a little 
wild or they went a little wild 

417
00:26:25,480 --> 00:26:28,680
in terms of the fragrance, and 
it didn't, it didn't connect to 

418
00:26:28,680 --> 00:26:31,680
the audience at all. 
So there can be some mistakes. 

419
00:26:31,680 --> 00:26:34,480
I didn't understand that when 
I'm like that is so dark. 

420
00:26:34,480 --> 00:26:38,640
You have you have such a pop 
club, fun audience. 

421
00:26:38,640 --> 00:26:40,120
People like to dance to your 
music. 

422
00:26:40,120 --> 00:26:44,360
Why are you going into the over 
the over the edge Satanism 

423
00:26:44,360 --> 00:26:45,960
almost. 
It was very bizarre. 

424
00:26:46,840 --> 00:26:53,200
What does what do the scent we 
choose say about us as people? 

425
00:26:53,200 --> 00:26:56,760
Do certain personalities 
gravitate towards certain sense?

426
00:26:56,760 --> 00:27:00,560
What have you learned from what 
you've done customizing Sense 

427
00:27:00,560 --> 00:27:03,040
for people? 
So I created 18 different 

428
00:27:03,040 --> 00:27:06,120
fragrance blends and I take 
people on a fragrance journey. 

429
00:27:06,120 --> 00:27:09,080
First of all, I invite them to 
take the Cent quiz, which people

430
00:27:09,080 --> 00:27:12,360
can take online too, on my 
website, suephillips.com, 

431
00:27:13,000 --> 00:27:16,000
because there are so many 
different ingredients and so 

432
00:27:16,000 --> 00:27:18,120
many fragrance families that 
it's confusing. 

433
00:27:18,120 --> 00:27:22,600
So I narrowed it down to four 
fresh, floral, woodsy, spicy. 

434
00:27:22,600 --> 00:27:24,480
It's so easy to even think about
that. 

435
00:27:24,800 --> 00:27:27,480
But when they take the scent 
quiz or they go online and take 

436
00:27:27,480 --> 00:27:31,400
the scent quiz, there are, 
especially when they meet with 

437
00:27:31,400 --> 00:27:35,200
me, I go through all eighteens. 
So they go on a fragrance 

438
00:27:35,200 --> 00:27:39,040
journey and as they're smelling 
and they're putting the one to 

439
00:27:39,040 --> 00:27:42,040
the left that they like, the one
in the middle that they may not 

440
00:27:42,040 --> 00:27:44,280
like, or the one to the right, 
which they definitely don't 

441
00:27:44,280 --> 00:27:47,000
like, we narrow it down to what 
they like. 

442
00:27:47,000 --> 00:27:51,200
I would say that young people 
definitely like light, bright 

443
00:27:51,200 --> 00:27:53,920
fragrances. 
In fact, I always give the 

444
00:27:53,920 --> 00:27:57,480
analogy that Americans love 
fresh and clean. 

445
00:27:58,080 --> 00:28:01,280
Everything you know that on our 
grocery shelves is lemon Pledge 

446
00:28:01,280 --> 00:28:05,120
citrus bright clean. 
That's sort of the, the, the 

447
00:28:05,120 --> 00:28:09,000
vibe and the mentality that 
Americans have to be clean and 

448
00:28:09,000 --> 00:28:12,320
bright and they shower three 
times a day because that's our 

449
00:28:12,320 --> 00:28:17,120
DNA here. 
Europeans love florals and 

450
00:28:17,320 --> 00:28:21,680
English like lavender. 
The South Americans love spicy. 

451
00:28:22,440 --> 00:28:24,880
The Japanese don't wear 
fragrance, but they give it as 

452
00:28:24,880 --> 00:28:26,240
gifts. 
And in the Middle East, 

453
00:28:26,240 --> 00:28:30,520
everything is ood, heavy ood and
incense. 

454
00:28:31,080 --> 00:28:35,880
And so there are different, you 
know, cultural preference, just 

455
00:28:35,880 --> 00:28:38,920
the way there is food. 
You know, certain cultures love 

456
00:28:38,920 --> 00:28:41,320
a certain, I mean, you go to 
India and everything is very 

457
00:28:41,320 --> 00:28:44,200
spicy. 
You go to France and everything 

458
00:28:44,200 --> 00:28:49,080
is just, you know, so creamy and
and and very tasty, not very 

459
00:28:49,080 --> 00:28:51,720
spicy. 
You go to the Middle East and 

460
00:28:51,720 --> 00:28:57,760
everything is in the sort of 
spicy, aromatic balsamic, 

461
00:28:59,800 --> 00:29:01,880
balsamic and vanilla's and so 
on. 

462
00:29:02,320 --> 00:29:06,040
So there is something to be said
about cultural differences in 

463
00:29:06,040 --> 00:29:11,200
food, in music and in fragrance.
That is fascinating. 

464
00:29:11,960 --> 00:29:15,520
See what you learn here. 
Yes, I'm learning a lot from 

465
00:29:15,520 --> 00:29:18,120
you. 
My guest is Sue Phillips, and we

466
00:29:18,120 --> 00:29:22,600
are talking about sense, and she
is a foremost expert on this 

467
00:29:22,600 --> 00:29:25,480
topic in the world. 
So I hope you're really paying 

468
00:29:25,480 --> 00:29:27,160
attention here because there's a
lot to learn. 

469
00:29:28,000 --> 00:29:29,720
Now. 
I have a OK, you have a book. 

470
00:29:29,720 --> 00:29:33,080
Here during the COVID, When 
COVID happened, I had to shut 

471
00:29:33,080 --> 00:29:35,480
down my boutique and business 
came to us halt. 

472
00:29:36,000 --> 00:29:39,320
And I'd love, I love writing and
I'd written so many articles 

473
00:29:39,320 --> 00:29:41,160
about fragrance for different 
publications. 

474
00:29:41,160 --> 00:29:44,880
And finally I said to myself, 
well, self, there's no business.

475
00:29:44,880 --> 00:29:46,080
You may as well do what you 
love. 

476
00:29:46,320 --> 00:29:51,160
So I wrote a book called the 
power of Perfume and it's, it's 

477
00:29:51,200 --> 00:29:53,760
you know, it's got a lot of 
different chapters of different.

478
00:29:53,760 --> 00:29:57,080
It's not a very heavy tone. 
It's very informative, 

479
00:29:57,080 --> 00:30:00,800
educational and fun reading. 
And the reason I did it is 

480
00:30:00,800 --> 00:30:05,840
because I wanted to get the 
message out that fragrance is so

481
00:30:05,840 --> 00:30:08,800
magical and so powerful because 
of all the things we've talked 

482
00:30:08,800 --> 00:30:10,480
about. 
It connect your sense of smell 

483
00:30:10,480 --> 00:30:12,960
and sense of taste, memory and 
emotion. 

484
00:30:13,600 --> 00:30:17,760
And it makes you, when you wear 
a fragrance that you love and 

485
00:30:17,760 --> 00:30:22,760
that reflects who you are, which
is probably a custom fragrance, 

486
00:30:23,360 --> 00:30:26,160
and people compliment you on it 
and they say, Oh my God, you 

487
00:30:26,160 --> 00:30:28,280
smell beautiful. 
What does that make you do? 

488
00:30:28,280 --> 00:30:30,880
It makes you sit up straight. 
It makes you smile. 

489
00:30:30,880 --> 00:30:34,240
It makes you feel confident and 
it makes you feel special 

490
00:30:34,240 --> 00:30:36,400
because guess what? 
There's nobody else in the world

491
00:30:36,400 --> 00:30:37,960
that has that fragrance except 
you. 

492
00:30:38,880 --> 00:30:43,160
So that's sort of what I love. 
And there's a lot of truth in 

493
00:30:43,160 --> 00:30:47,120
what you just said because 
there, I can't think of the 

494
00:30:47,120 --> 00:30:48,960
place. 
It's downtown where you can go 

495
00:30:48,960 --> 00:30:55,480
and have a custom perfume made. 
And I was one time I met this 

496
00:30:55,480 --> 00:30:57,160
woman. 
I'm like, Oh my gosh, you smell 

497
00:30:57,160 --> 00:30:58,720
so good. 
I just love that scent. 

498
00:30:59,160 --> 00:31:01,800
So that Christmas my husband 
said, well, you know, he's 

499
00:31:01,800 --> 00:31:03,600
always looking for things for 
Christmas. 

500
00:31:03,600 --> 00:31:05,680
I said, listen, forget all that 
other stuff you're thinking 

501
00:31:05,680 --> 00:31:07,520
about. 
I just want this particular 

502
00:31:07,880 --> 00:31:11,960
bottle of perfume. 
And let me tell you, it does not

503
00:31:11,960 --> 00:31:16,160
smell like that on me. 
I cannot wear it nicely. 

504
00:31:16,680 --> 00:31:19,200
So that in itself is an 
interesting. 

505
00:31:20,080 --> 00:31:24,880
Because what you were smelling 
on her reflected well with her 

506
00:31:24,880 --> 00:31:30,000
body chemistry and her DNA and 
what when it came to you, it 

507
00:31:30,000 --> 00:31:32,360
didn't reflect who you are. 
It was different. 

508
00:31:32,960 --> 00:31:36,640
People don't know that, you 
know, So we are all sort of 

509
00:31:38,600 --> 00:31:42,520
besotted with different 
fragrances by different 

510
00:31:42,520 --> 00:31:45,400
celebrities and designers and 
the hottest new fragrance you 

511
00:31:45,400 --> 00:31:48,800
want, but the hottest new 
fragrance might not suit your 

512
00:31:48,800 --> 00:31:52,560
body chemistry. 
And that is one of the reasons 

513
00:31:52,560 --> 00:31:57,640
that I've been able to really 
talk to people and help people 

514
00:31:57,640 --> 00:32:01,960
and create beautiful perfumes 
and get their responses and 

515
00:32:01,960 --> 00:32:05,440
their reviews when they create, 
when they wear a fragrance that 

516
00:32:05,440 --> 00:32:09,200
has been created especially for 
them, they. 

517
00:32:09,400 --> 00:32:11,880
Are do this for people and 
create custom. 

518
00:32:11,880 --> 00:32:16,920
Sense yes, both in person when 
you come to my boutique and we 

519
00:32:16,920 --> 00:32:19,840
do, I give you the same 
personality quiz and go through 

520
00:32:19,840 --> 00:32:24,200
the quiz and then we go through 
old 18 blends and based on your 

521
00:32:24,200 --> 00:32:29,440
reaction, I see if a person's 
eyes light up, if they smile or 

522
00:32:29,440 --> 00:32:32,440
if they frown. 
It's all just do with their 

523
00:32:32,440 --> 00:32:37,040
facial expressions and their 
their connection with the 

524
00:32:37,040 --> 00:32:39,960
fragrance that they're smelling.
So it's very psychological on 

525
00:32:39,960 --> 00:32:41,520
some level. 
Very psychological and it's, 

526
00:32:41,640 --> 00:32:46,000
it's so palpable because I can 
see in somebody's facial 

527
00:32:46,000 --> 00:32:48,920
expression exactly what's going 
on in the mind. 

528
00:32:49,240 --> 00:32:50,400
I love it. 
I hate it. 

529
00:32:50,440 --> 00:32:51,960
I think it's good. 
I'm not sure. 

530
00:32:51,960 --> 00:32:55,400
Yes, I love it. 
This reminds me of so it's A and

531
00:32:55,400 --> 00:32:58,640
then at the end they narrow it 
down to 3 or 4 blends. 

532
00:32:58,640 --> 00:33:02,440
I call them blends and they 
create something that is 

533
00:33:02,560 --> 00:33:05,880
amazing. 
And what's fascinating for me is

534
00:33:05,880 --> 00:33:10,360
that I'm able to do this with 
people I don't know, I've never 

535
00:33:10,360 --> 00:33:12,480
met. 
It's just they take the send 

536
00:33:12,480 --> 00:33:16,720
quiz online and they tell me, 
oh, I like, you know, Au Sauvage

537
00:33:16,720 --> 00:33:19,000
or I like Chanel or I like 
something else. 

538
00:33:19,440 --> 00:33:22,400
But, and many fragrances have 
been discontinued. 

539
00:33:22,400 --> 00:33:24,480
So they are desperate for their 
fragrance. 

540
00:33:24,480 --> 00:33:27,440
And then I go and research what 
their fragrance was that has 

541
00:33:27,440 --> 00:33:30,160
been discontinued. 
And I see what the breakdown of 

542
00:33:30,160 --> 00:33:33,280
the notes are. 
And then I look at the ascent 

543
00:33:33,280 --> 00:33:36,080
results and I'm able to come up 
with something. 

544
00:33:36,080 --> 00:33:38,240
I, I was blown away the other 
day. 

545
00:33:38,840 --> 00:33:40,920
I had created this fragrance for
this gentleman. 

546
00:33:40,920 --> 00:33:42,560
He didn't know me. 
He found me. 

547
00:33:42,560 --> 00:33:45,440
He said basically I found you 
online. 

548
00:33:45,440 --> 00:33:49,520
I've been searching, searching, 
searching for ages for this, my 

549
00:33:49,520 --> 00:33:52,280
perfect sense. 
And he told me what he liked too

550
00:33:52,280 --> 00:33:59,160
very, you know, very, you know, 
not really modern popular 

551
00:33:59,160 --> 00:34:01,560
fragrances, but very sort of 
obscure. 

552
00:34:02,600 --> 00:34:06,280
And I saw his scent results and 
I saw the fragrances. 

553
00:34:06,280 --> 00:34:08,440
I looked them up. 
I was able to find that one was 

554
00:34:08,440 --> 00:34:14,239
leathery and one was very sort 
of, well, maybe I'll say woodsy.

555
00:34:15,560 --> 00:34:18,280
But I created something for him 
which was very complex. 

556
00:34:18,280 --> 00:34:21,199
And then he wrote to me before I
sent it, he said, can you make 

557
00:34:21,199 --> 00:34:24,080
me a larger size bottle? 
So that was great. 

558
00:34:24,080 --> 00:34:26,320
He wanted a larger size without 
even smelling it. 

559
00:34:26,760 --> 00:34:29,800
I sent it to him. 
It never got to him because 

560
00:34:30,920 --> 00:34:34,159
somebody from the building saw 
the package, whatever it was, 

561
00:34:34,159 --> 00:34:35,679
and stole it. 
So he wrote back. 

562
00:34:35,679 --> 00:34:38,080
He said, I said, did you, did 
you get the send? 

563
00:34:38,080 --> 00:34:40,760
He said, no, I didn't. 
I said, OK, He said, I want to 

564
00:34:41,120 --> 00:34:42,880
get it again. 
I said, OK, I'll make it for 

565
00:34:42,880 --> 00:34:46,360
you. 
So this time I sent to Tim the 

566
00:34:46,360 --> 00:34:50,120
different package, different 
shipping and so on. 

567
00:34:51,360 --> 00:34:56,400
And he wrote to me the day that 
he got it, he said, I am blown 

568
00:34:56,400 --> 00:34:58,800
away. 
It is absolutely what I want. 

569
00:34:58,920 --> 00:35:02,400
Everything about is magnificent.
And then two days later, he 

570
00:35:02,400 --> 00:35:04,440
wrote to me. 
He said I've already had four 

571
00:35:04,440 --> 00:35:07,920
compliments from people. 
So now he wants to really help 

572
00:35:08,000 --> 00:35:11,000
build my brand. 
But when I hear comments like 

573
00:35:11,000 --> 00:35:14,520
that, when I've been able to 
create something so different 

574
00:35:14,520 --> 00:35:18,800
and so complex and so meaningful
for the client, it just makes me

575
00:35:19,080 --> 00:35:23,560
so thrilled and happy. 
That is such a wonderful story. 

576
00:35:23,560 --> 00:35:26,200
I want to talk to you about 
perfume etiquette. 

577
00:35:26,400 --> 00:35:28,520
Yes. 
Oh, OK. 

578
00:35:29,720 --> 00:35:31,400
I have a feeling you know where 
I'm going. 

579
00:35:31,560 --> 00:35:37,560
There are people that put on so 
much perfume and Cologne, and 

580
00:35:37,640 --> 00:35:40,720
I'm a hugger. 
I always love to hug people, but

581
00:35:40,720 --> 00:35:42,960
I really don't want to smell 
like them for the rest of the 

582
00:35:42,960 --> 00:35:45,880
day, especially if it's a 
terrible scent and then I'm 

583
00:35:45,880 --> 00:35:48,560
gagging or my eyes are starting 
to water. 

584
00:35:49,320 --> 00:35:53,400
What is perfume etiquette? 
And first of all, let's start 

585
00:35:53,400 --> 00:35:55,560
with where should we apply 
perfume? 

586
00:35:55,600 --> 00:35:59,760
Perfect. 
So I always tell the story that 

587
00:35:59,880 --> 00:36:02,880
perfumers have been creating 
fragrances and perfumes for 

588
00:36:02,880 --> 00:36:07,560
centuries, but people don't 
really know where to wear. 

589
00:36:07,560 --> 00:36:11,760
So the original sort of perfume 
etiquette, or where you wear 

590
00:36:11,760 --> 00:36:16,280
perfume, was to create it and 
put it in all your pulse points.

591
00:36:16,280 --> 00:36:19,880
So where are the pulse points? 
At the ankles, women used to 

592
00:36:19,880 --> 00:36:23,280
wear long flowing skirts. 
They would apply to the ankles 

593
00:36:23,640 --> 00:36:27,000
and the swishing of the skirts 
would make the fragrance lift up

594
00:36:28,640 --> 00:36:35,880
behind the knees, in between the
thighs, in the bazoom area, at 

595
00:36:35,880 --> 00:36:39,600
the pulse points and wherever 
you want to be kissed. 

596
00:36:40,680 --> 00:36:43,040
And so the perfumers used to say
this. 

597
00:36:43,040 --> 00:36:45,040
So he said, what does the 
Americans do? 

598
00:36:45,040 --> 00:36:47,480
Do a schwitzia and a schwitzia, 
who does? 

599
00:36:47,480 --> 00:36:52,320
They attacked the birds and the 
clouds because fragrance rises. 

600
00:36:52,880 --> 00:36:55,600
So one of the things that I 
always believe in, the 

601
00:36:55,800 --> 00:36:59,680
fragrances should be put on the 
pulse points, not on the hair, 

602
00:37:00,080 --> 00:37:02,760
not on the back of the neck, 
because you can't smell it, and 

603
00:37:02,760 --> 00:37:06,320
not on clothes. 
But many people spray fragrance 

604
00:37:06,320 --> 00:37:07,880
on clothes. 
First of all, it'll damage your 

605
00:37:07,880 --> 00:37:10,720
clothes. 
If you have anything light, it 

606
00:37:10,720 --> 00:37:14,040
might stay in your clothes. 
Some of the fragrance and 

607
00:37:14,040 --> 00:37:17,880
chemicals might affect the 
materials if you're wearing. 

608
00:37:17,880 --> 00:37:20,920
Depending on what kind of 
fabric, it could be a polyester,

609
00:37:20,920 --> 00:37:23,640
or it could be rayon, or it 
could be something else and 

610
00:37:23,800 --> 00:37:28,040
it'll distort the fragrance. 
And it's not a good idea to wear

611
00:37:28,040 --> 00:37:30,320
fragrance and clothes because 
you might wear one fragrance 

612
00:37:30,320 --> 00:37:34,480
today, something tomorrow or the
next day, and then the previous 

613
00:37:34,480 --> 00:37:36,600
fragrance lingers on your 
outfit, which is not a good 

614
00:37:36,600 --> 00:37:38,800
thing. 
Fragrance is meant to be worn on

615
00:37:39,040 --> 00:37:45,440
cold, cool, unscented skin. 
So when you come out of the 

616
00:37:45,440 --> 00:37:49,720
shower or the bath, what you do 
is you can always use an 

617
00:37:49,720 --> 00:37:53,520
unscented body lotion. 
Unscented and then you could 

618
00:37:53,520 --> 00:37:58,280
apply your fragrance to your 
pulse points and on your areas 

619
00:37:59,080 --> 00:38:03,640
and that will warm skin. 
I, I said cool, I meant warm 

620
00:38:03,640 --> 00:38:06,400
skin. 
So the warmth of your skin will 

621
00:38:06,400 --> 00:38:09,800
help diffuse the fragrance and 
it will be a beautiful 

622
00:38:09,800 --> 00:38:11,840
fragrance. 
I do agree with you. 

623
00:38:11,840 --> 00:38:16,200
Many people spray too much 
fragrance on their clothes, on 

624
00:38:16,200 --> 00:38:18,200
their hair. 
And so when you're kissing them,

625
00:38:18,200 --> 00:38:21,520
you, you know, the lingering 
fragrance will transport to you.

626
00:38:22,280 --> 00:38:24,720
And, you know, you said it's a 
bad fragrance. 

627
00:38:24,720 --> 00:38:25,960
Well, it's a bad fragrance for 
you. 

628
00:38:25,960 --> 00:38:27,600
They think it's a fabulous 
fragrance. 

629
00:38:27,600 --> 00:38:29,480
So you see there again, you 
don't know. 

630
00:38:29,960 --> 00:38:33,520
So people should really wear the
fragrance for themselves on 

631
00:38:33,520 --> 00:38:38,680
their skin and not try and 
reflect and, you know, encourage

632
00:38:38,680 --> 00:38:40,720
everybody else to wear the same 
fragrance because it's not going

633
00:38:40,720 --> 00:38:42,440
to be the same. 
It's not going to smell the 

634
00:38:42,440 --> 00:38:44,000
same. 
You know, you mentioned 

635
00:38:44,000 --> 00:38:44,880
something. 
Interesting. 

636
00:38:44,880 --> 00:38:46,880
Don't put it on your clothes 
because you might wear a 

637
00:38:46,880 --> 00:38:50,520
different fragrance to you. 
If you were going to guess how 

638
00:38:50,520 --> 00:38:55,560
many people who enjoy perfume or
fragrances, how many do you 

639
00:38:55,560 --> 00:38:59,400
think of different types the 
average person might own? 

640
00:38:59,400 --> 00:39:00,800
Do they? 
Do they rotate? 

641
00:39:00,800 --> 00:39:03,440
Or do people define a signature 
for themselves? 

642
00:39:03,760 --> 00:39:05,680
Many people define. 
A signature. 

643
00:39:05,840 --> 00:39:09,560
And then when the signature 
fragrance has been discontinued 

644
00:39:09,560 --> 00:39:11,440
and they're searching, 
searching, searching for 

645
00:39:11,440 --> 00:39:16,120
something new, they become, you 
know, trying to, you know, like 

646
00:39:16,240 --> 00:39:18,840
Hercule Parrot trying to find 
the right fragrance. 

647
00:39:19,360 --> 00:39:21,640
And sometimes they'll, they'll 
try different figures. 

648
00:39:21,640 --> 00:39:24,080
I'll go to the store, they'll 
try different fragrances and 

649
00:39:24,080 --> 00:39:31,920
they'll judge the reaction. 
Many people love their own 

650
00:39:31,920 --> 00:39:36,320
signature scent, but many people
also want to have a fragrance, a

651
00:39:36,320 --> 00:39:38,480
different fragrance for a 
different mood or a different 

652
00:39:38,480 --> 00:39:41,800
occasion. 
So you know you wouldn't wear 

653
00:39:41,800 --> 00:39:46,480
the same fragrance to an outdoor
sporting activity that you then 

654
00:39:46,480 --> 00:39:49,000
you would to a black tie fancy 
dinner party. 

655
00:39:49,720 --> 00:39:52,680
So if you if you, that's a very 
interesting point. 

656
00:39:52,680 --> 00:39:54,480
How? 
Would you, if you were advising 

657
00:39:54,480 --> 00:39:57,080
someone, how would you advise 
them to think differently for 

658
00:39:57,080 --> 00:40:00,920
that black tie event versus the 
afternoon the same the? 

659
00:40:01,080 --> 00:40:04,160
Same as you're wearing different
clothes, you would never wear 

660
00:40:04,160 --> 00:40:07,520
the same outfit that you're 
wearing at a black tie for a 

661
00:40:07,520 --> 00:40:10,320
polo match. 
As much as you love that black 

662
00:40:10,320 --> 00:40:15,680
tie outfit, that's inappropriate
for an outdoor tennis, golfing, 

663
00:40:15,880 --> 00:40:20,000
polo match. 
So certain fragrances would be 

664
00:40:20,400 --> 00:40:25,080
not appropriate. 
Now, if you have your own custom

665
00:40:25,080 --> 00:40:28,960
scent and it's been created for 
you and it really reflects who 

666
00:40:28,960 --> 00:40:31,600
you are, it has nothing to do 
with the activity. 

667
00:40:31,600 --> 00:40:35,000
It has to do with you. 
So then you could wear that 

668
00:40:35,000 --> 00:40:38,960
fragrance to anyone, any place 
because it becomes your 

669
00:40:38,960 --> 00:40:42,160
signature. 
So I know it's a little bit of a

670
00:40:42,160 --> 00:40:46,840
dichotomy, but it makes sense. 
But if you know if you. 

671
00:40:46,840 --> 00:40:51,320
Have if you have a fragrance 
that has been created for you 

672
00:40:51,320 --> 00:40:54,960
and you love it and it reflects 
who you are and you want to own 

673
00:40:54,960 --> 00:40:58,440
it and celebrate yourself, you 
could wear it wherever because 

674
00:40:58,480 --> 00:41:00,080
it's not going to be a 
disconnect. 

675
00:41:00,400 --> 00:41:04,120
Whereas if you wear something 
very heavy and very spicy and 

676
00:41:04,120 --> 00:41:09,640
very, you know, dark and and 
complex to a black tie dinner, 

677
00:41:09,720 --> 00:41:13,280
which is not your fragrance, and
you wear that same fragrance to 

678
00:41:13,360 --> 00:41:15,920
an outdoor polo match, it's a 
disconnect. 

679
00:41:17,400 --> 00:41:18,800
You know, I'm curious. 
You talked. 

680
00:41:18,800 --> 00:41:22,120
About different it, well, I want
to ask you a question first. 

681
00:41:22,120 --> 00:41:25,240
Fragrance, scent, perfume, 
Cologne. 

682
00:41:25,840 --> 00:41:27,080
Is there a difference between 
them all? 

683
00:41:28,520 --> 00:41:29,920
What is the? 
What are what are those 

684
00:41:30,040 --> 00:41:31,200
differences? 
The difference is the 

685
00:41:31,200 --> 00:41:34,680
concentration. 
So perfume is the most 

686
00:41:34,680 --> 00:41:37,960
concentrated. 
If you think of a bottle, an 

687
00:41:37,960 --> 00:41:42,200
empty bottle. 
So you have 30% of your actual 

688
00:41:42,200 --> 00:41:47,120
perfume concentration, the 
perfume ingredient and that's 

689
00:41:47,120 --> 00:41:49,520
all you're allowed around that 
percentage. 

690
00:41:49,520 --> 00:41:53,680
The FDA and ocean, all these 
regulatory bodies have 

691
00:41:53,680 --> 00:41:56,680
determined that this is the 
measurement. 

692
00:41:57,160 --> 00:42:02,040
And then you add the alcohol, 
denatured alcohol and different 

693
00:42:02,040 --> 00:42:06,440
kinds of water so that. 
So perfume is a liquid. 

694
00:42:06,760 --> 00:42:08,680
It's different than essential 
oils. 

695
00:42:08,680 --> 00:42:12,680
Essential oils has a consistency
of say like olive oil, very 

696
00:42:12,680 --> 00:42:16,280
heavy, very occlusive. 
It doesn't really penetrate into

697
00:42:16,280 --> 00:42:17,880
your skin. 
It stays on the top and you have

698
00:42:17,880 --> 00:42:21,240
to rub it in to really let it 
absorb. 

699
00:42:21,520 --> 00:42:25,280
So perfume is the most 
concentrated, it's the highest 

700
00:42:25,680 --> 00:42:28,720
level, it's the the strongest 
version. 

701
00:42:29,120 --> 00:42:32,720
The more you dilute it with 
denatured alcohol and water, it 

702
00:42:32,720 --> 00:42:36,480
becomes ode perfume, which 
literally means water of 

703
00:42:36,480 --> 00:42:41,240
perfume, then ode toilette and 
then Cologne, ode Cologne. 

704
00:42:42,040 --> 00:42:43,960
So it's just a matter of 
concentrate. 

705
00:42:43,960 --> 00:42:47,080
It has nothing to do with 
perfume is for women and Cologne

706
00:42:47,080 --> 00:42:50,720
is for men. 
It became a generic term for 

707
00:42:50,840 --> 00:42:54,480
women's fragrances, perfume and 
Cologne for men. 

708
00:42:54,480 --> 00:42:59,560
But actually men can wear 
perfume, women can wear Cologne.

709
00:42:59,560 --> 00:43:03,040
It's just a question of the 
strength and the concentration 

710
00:43:03,040 --> 00:43:05,320
that was that was a great. 
Educational point. 

711
00:43:05,320 --> 00:43:07,760
So much of this is in my book 
too. 

712
00:43:08,200 --> 00:43:09,560
What do you have here? 
You have a. 

713
00:43:09,560 --> 00:43:13,200
Variety of items sitting in 
front of you so I just bought 

714
00:43:13,200 --> 00:43:15,920
some of. 
These atomizers that we use, I 

715
00:43:15,920 --> 00:43:22,080
love to use sort of interesting 
refillable products. 

716
00:43:22,080 --> 00:43:26,800
So these are I, I call them 
twist and swivel. 

717
00:43:27,120 --> 00:43:34,680
You twist, you open it up and 
then there is a bottle in here. 

718
00:43:34,880 --> 00:43:38,440
So there's look at that and. 
So you would be able to refill 

719
00:43:38,440 --> 00:43:42,360
the bottle exactly. 
So you take it off, you're 

720
00:43:42,360 --> 00:43:44,720
untwisted. 
See, I, I really love 

721
00:43:44,720 --> 00:43:47,520
sustainability. 
I, I hate throwing away 

722
00:43:47,520 --> 00:43:52,600
beautiful bottles. 
And so this becomes very nice 

723
00:43:52,600 --> 00:43:56,000
and then I have smaller sizes, 
which is fun too. 

724
00:43:56,120 --> 00:44:00,600
They twist and swivel and I, I 
made one for you, which is in 

725
00:44:00,600 --> 00:44:03,720
the Rose gold. 
And then I have this art, this 

726
00:44:03,720 --> 00:44:06,760
packaging and I love again, 
sister. 

727
00:44:06,760 --> 00:44:09,160
So this is a little sash satin 
sachet. 

728
00:44:09,160 --> 00:44:12,000
I descended in gold, purple and 
black. 

729
00:44:12,360 --> 00:44:19,160
Most men love the black brushed 
atomizer with the black sachet 

730
00:44:19,520 --> 00:44:23,320
and then women happen to love 
the gold and black and looks. 

731
00:44:23,400 --> 00:44:29,040
This looks very Chanel in the 
gold and then the Rose gold can 

732
00:44:29,040 --> 00:44:35,800
come with purple or so. 
So these are really sort of my 

733
00:44:35,800 --> 00:44:40,600
version of sustainability so 
that you don't have to throw 

734
00:44:40,600 --> 00:44:42,280
them away. 
You can always refill them and 

735
00:44:42,280 --> 00:44:45,920
get refills, which I think is 
nice because people love these 

736
00:44:45,920 --> 00:44:49,160
they, they sit in this, you 
know, carry them in your 

737
00:44:49,160 --> 00:44:53,360
handbag, your purse or a 
gentleman's pocket and they're 

738
00:44:53,360 --> 00:44:54,840
fun. 
You can travel with them. 

739
00:44:55,120 --> 00:44:58,200
The largest 1 is only 20ML, just
under an ounce. 

740
00:44:58,200 --> 00:45:04,160
So it's perfectly safe to travel
with it on, on the planes, you 

741
00:45:04,160 --> 00:45:07,280
know, we mentioned. 
You mentioned Coco Chanel, 

742
00:45:07,280 --> 00:45:10,400
starting with Chanel #5 and that
powdery scent. 

743
00:45:10,440 --> 00:45:15,720
I'm curious over the decades we 
talked about countries having 

744
00:45:15,720 --> 00:45:21,720
their own kind of unique scent 
or vibe or go to that the masses

745
00:45:21,720 --> 00:45:26,480
seem to prefer regionally decade
wise does. 

746
00:45:27,560 --> 00:45:30,440
Does desire for certain? 
Sense change over the decade? 

747
00:45:30,440 --> 00:45:33,640
Absolutely it's. 
In my book, again fragrance 

748
00:45:33,640 --> 00:45:37,600
through the decades. 
So you think about in the 1920s 

749
00:45:38,200 --> 00:45:45,600
or 1910, actually 1904 Coke 
Cote, Francois Cote was a real 

750
00:45:45,600 --> 00:45:49,320
human being. 
He was a perfumer and he created

751
00:45:49,320 --> 00:45:55,960
a fragrance called Chipra 
CHYPRES, which really comes from

752
00:45:55,960 --> 00:46:01,760
the, the place called Cyprus. 
And when he went there, he, he, 

753
00:46:01,880 --> 00:46:06,160
he experienced this 
overwhelming, heavy, deep, 

754
00:46:06,240 --> 00:46:11,760
mossy, Patchouli, leathery type.
And he made a fragrance in 1904 

755
00:46:11,760 --> 00:46:14,720
called Coty. 
So that was the fragrance in 

756
00:46:14,720 --> 00:46:18,480
1904. 
In 1910 there was a fragrance 

757
00:46:18,480 --> 00:46:24,480
called Valdenois by Shalimar, I 
think. 

758
00:46:25,000 --> 00:46:27,960
And then there was Chanel #5 in 
1920. 

759
00:46:28,280 --> 00:46:32,560
In the 30s, there were all kinds
of different fragrances in the 

760
00:46:32,560 --> 00:46:36,960
40s and 50s. 
So in America suddenly came and 

761
00:46:36,960 --> 00:46:41,000
there were a lot of European 
fragrances in the 60's, the 

762
00:46:41,000 --> 00:46:46,400
first sort of American designer 
fragrances, Norman Norell and. 

763
00:46:46,400 --> 00:46:48,680
He created. 
A fragrance called Norell 

764
00:46:48,680 --> 00:46:54,640
NORELL, which is a beautiful, 
also very heavy green fragrance.

765
00:46:55,240 --> 00:47:00,520
Then came the and then came the 
70s. 

766
00:47:00,520 --> 00:47:04,200
Remember Revlon created a 
fragrance called Charlie. 

767
00:47:04,200 --> 00:47:06,360
Oh yes. 
You know she my next door 

768
00:47:06,360 --> 00:47:09,240
neighbor wore it all the time. 
You know the the model. 

769
00:47:10,200 --> 00:47:11,920
Whoever the model caller, 
Charlie. 

770
00:47:11,920 --> 00:47:13,680
Yeah. 
Was that Sybil Shepherd? 

771
00:47:13,680 --> 00:47:17,560
No, it was not her that. 
Lauren Hutton. 

772
00:47:17,640 --> 00:47:20,280
Lauren Hutton. 
And she would stride. 

773
00:47:20,280 --> 00:47:21,840
Down. 
It was the start of sort of 

774
00:47:21,840 --> 00:47:25,120
women's Lib and independence. 
And she wasn't in a dress, she 

775
00:47:25,120 --> 00:47:27,600
was in a pantsuit. 
Yeah, it's right in her 50s. 

776
00:47:27,920 --> 00:47:30,840
So this was 70s. 
In the 80s, it was the first 

777
00:47:30,840 --> 00:47:34,160
sort of celebrity fragrance. 
Remember Miss Elizabeth Taylor? 

778
00:47:34,160 --> 00:47:37,280
She came up with passion. 
See, I'm remembering my 

779
00:47:37,280 --> 00:47:40,960
fragrance history in the 90s. 
So in the 80s everything was 

780
00:47:40,960 --> 00:47:45,840
totally excess luxuries, 
extravagance, over the top, big 

781
00:47:45,840 --> 00:47:51,040
shoulder pads. 
Remember the the the TV series 

782
00:47:51,520 --> 00:47:54,120
Dynasty Exactly. 
As soon as you said shoulder 

783
00:47:54,120 --> 00:47:58,960
pads exactly exactly. 
So the 90s was a total reversal 

784
00:47:58,960 --> 00:48:02,280
and those two stars. 
Was it Linda Evans and Joan 

785
00:48:02,280 --> 00:48:04,240
Collins? 
Both had their own perfumes? 

786
00:48:04,280 --> 00:48:07,480
Eventually, yes. 
Then in the 90s, things 

787
00:48:07,480 --> 00:48:13,400
reversed. 
Things became very, very watery 

788
00:48:13,400 --> 00:48:17,800
and very, you know, lighter in 
the 2000 was going back to the 

789
00:48:17,800 --> 00:48:19,840
millennial. 
People wanted to go back because

790
00:48:19,840 --> 00:48:22,200
it was a whole new century and a
whole new thing. 

791
00:48:22,200 --> 00:48:25,600
So they went back to the 
classics, the Shalimars, the art

792
00:48:25,600 --> 00:48:31,400
page, and so and then in 2010 a 
whole new thing emerged and the 

793
00:48:31,400 --> 00:48:33,360
many celebrities and designer 
fragrances. 

794
00:48:33,360 --> 00:48:36,600
But this is sort of where 
customization came to be. 

795
00:48:36,960 --> 00:48:40,120
People were tired of sort of 
aligning with celebrities and 

796
00:48:40,120 --> 00:48:43,760
designers for the disconnect. 
And so customization became 

797
00:48:43,760 --> 00:48:45,560
really important. 
And that's sort of when I 

798
00:48:45,560 --> 00:48:49,120
started in 2012 my custom 
fragrance business. 

799
00:48:49,680 --> 00:48:52,600
And so I can take you through 
fragrance through the decades 

800
00:48:52,600 --> 00:48:55,080
and, you know, it's still 
customization. 

801
00:48:55,080 --> 00:48:58,360
And now it's really about 
personalization. 

802
00:48:58,360 --> 00:49:00,880
Exactly, exactly. 
Oh my gosh. 

803
00:49:00,880 --> 00:49:03,880
Sue Phillips. 
I could keep talking to you for 

804
00:49:03,920 --> 00:49:06,160
hours, but we're at the end of 
this show. 

805
00:49:06,400 --> 00:49:10,560
If you were going to give 
someone less parting words on 

806
00:49:11,080 --> 00:49:13,720
personalizing your scent, what 
would you say? 

807
00:49:14,680 --> 00:49:18,600
I would say. 
Don't fall into the trap of 

808
00:49:18,600 --> 00:49:20,560
wanting what everybody else 
wants. 

809
00:49:21,080 --> 00:49:25,600
Reflect who you are, be 
passionate, be confident, and 

810
00:49:25,600 --> 00:49:30,760
know that your persona is going 
to be what attracts people to 

811
00:49:30,760 --> 00:49:34,160
you, not the fragrance that 
25,000,000 other people are 

812
00:49:34,160 --> 00:49:39,720
wearing. 
So personalization, being 

813
00:49:39,720 --> 00:49:42,680
confident and reflecting your 
individuality and your 

814
00:49:42,680 --> 00:49:45,240
personality is important. 
Why wear what everybody else 

815
00:49:45,240 --> 00:49:48,800
wears? 
Because perfume is the signature

816
00:49:48,800 --> 00:49:52,320
of your soul. 
That is 1. 

817
00:49:52,320 --> 00:49:55,640
Great wrap up. 
I'm going to be thinking about 

818
00:49:55,640 --> 00:49:59,160
that as I smell so good thanks 
to the perfume you gave me. 

819
00:50:00,640 --> 00:50:03,240
I'm Diane Grissell. 
This has been the Silver 

820
00:50:03,240 --> 00:50:05,600
despedience perception dynamics 
podcast. 

821
00:50:05,920 --> 00:50:08,440
My guest today has been Sue 
Phillips. 

822
00:50:08,440 --> 00:50:12,320
She is a fragrance expert who is
world renowned. 

823
00:50:12,800 --> 00:50:16,640
Below you will be able to find 
her links to her website to her 

824
00:50:16,640 --> 00:50:20,040
social media. 
I highly encourage you take the 

825
00:50:20,040 --> 00:50:23,080
free perfume test that's right 
on her website. 

826
00:50:23,200 --> 00:50:26,840
I'm going to go take it because 
now I'm very curious what is my 

827
00:50:26,840 --> 00:50:28,440
scent? 
Even though I smell delicious 

828
00:50:28,440 --> 00:50:30,280
right now thanks to a gift from 
Sue. 

829
00:50:31,040 --> 00:50:35,520
So please subscribe, please tell
your friends about this episode,

830
00:50:35,520 --> 00:50:38,520
share it and see you soon.
