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Hello my friends and welcome to 
Simply Hooked, a crochet 

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podcast. 
I'm your host Marcy, a crochet 

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designer, mom of two, and 
creative entrepreneur. 

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Here we celebrate the joy of 
crochet and talk about what it 

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really means to create a life 
you love through your own unique

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gifts. 
Hello my friends. 

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So if you are new to crochet, 
you may have recently taken your

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first trip down the yarn aisle 
of a Michaels or Hobby Lobby and

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probably felt a bit overwhelmed.
I know I did the first time. 

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Walking into the yarn aisles can
sometimes feel like landing in a

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foreign country. 
It's beautiful. 

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There's colors everywhere that 
there's so much texture. 

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But then you pick up a scheme 
and suddenly you feel like you 

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need a translator. 
There are abbreviations for 

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stitches. 
There's words that do not 

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exactly roll off your tongue. 
Does anyone remember the first 

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time they tried to pronounce the
word scheme? 

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Or is it skein? 
Or is it skein? 

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I call it scheme. 
I don't know if that is correct 

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or not. 
And then there's that paper 

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wrapped around the middle of the
yarn, and it is covered in tiny 

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symbols, grids, numbers, laundry
icons, like what does all of 

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this mean? 
Today we are going to crack the 

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code of the yarn label. 
So this is a great episode if 

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you're just starting out because
those labels are not meant to 

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confuse you or gatekeep the 
hobby. 

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They're actually a CHEAT SHEET. 
They are there to help you 

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predict exactly how your project
will turn out before you ever 

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pick up your hook. 
So let's walk through these 

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labels one little box at a time,
because reading the label saves 

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us from heartbreak later. 
So not all the yarns work well 

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for all projects. 
A yarn that is perfect for a 

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thick winter scarf might be a 
terrible choice for a 

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lightweight summer top. 
And a yarn that looks beautiful 

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on the shelf might not hold up 
well as a baby blanket or 

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something that needs to be 
washed frequently. 

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So understanding the yarn labels
helps you choose yarn that fits 

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the purpose of your project, not
just the look, and it will help 

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you avoid surprises and 
frustration later on. 

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So here are the main things the 
labels are going to tell you. 

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How thick the yarn is. 
How much yarn is in the scheme. 

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What hook size to start with. 
How to care for your finished 

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piece. 
What the yarn is made of and 

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information about color and the 
dye lot. 

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So once you know where to look, 
it all starts to feel much less 

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intimidating. 
So if you have a skein of yarn 

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nearby that still has the 
wrapper on it, go ahead and grab

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it and we will go through this. 
So when you look at the wrapper,

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you're going to see a few 
distinct sections. 

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You'll see the brand name, big 
and bold on the front. 

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And then if you rotate it, 
you'll find all the technical 

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stuff. 
And usually these are organized 

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into little shapes or boxes. 
So first we're going to look at 

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the yarn weight. 
On almost every commercial yarn 

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label, you are going to see a 
small icon that looks a little 

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bit like a black and white 
scheme of yarn. 

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And inside that scheme, there 
will be a number, usually 

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ranging from zero to seven. 
And just to clear up confusion, 

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when I say weight here we're not
talking about how heavy the ball

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of yarn is on a scale. 
We're talking about the 

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thickness of the strand. 
So yarn weight refers to the 

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thickness. 
And the scale works like this. 

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You've got 0, which is the 
finest lace weight, super tiny, 

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think doilies. 
And then you've got 4, which is 

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medium or worsted weight. 
This is the most common weight 

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of yarn, and then it goes up to 
seven, which is jumbo. 

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This is like massive. 
You would need a very large 

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crochet hook. 
So this icon matters because 

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patterns are written for 
specific yarn weights. 

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And if a pattern calls for a #4 
medium yarn and you use a #2 

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fine yarn, your finished project
is going to be very tiny. 

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So and it's not going to look 
proportionate. 

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It's so always look for that 
little scheme symbol with the 

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number inside. 
This is really your North star 

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for sizing. 
Right next to that, you're 

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probably going to see the 
physical weight and length. 

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This is listed in ounces and 
grams and then yards and meters.

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And this is crucial if you're 
substituting yarn. 

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So let's say a pattern tells you
that you need 3 schemes of a 

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specific brand. 
If you buy a different brand, 

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you cannot just buy 3 schemes 
and hope for the best. 

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You need to look at the yardage.
So one brand might have 200 

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yards in a ball, while another 
only has 150. 

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So even if the balls of yarn 
look the same size, they're not 

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always match the total yards 
required, not the number of 

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schemes and yardage is something
I pay the most attention to it. 

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It certainly took several 
projects or even a couple of 

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years to kind of figure out how 
much yarn I'm going to need for 

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something like with Omega Rummy 
I, I tend to design bigger 

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animals. 
So when I use burn that blanket 

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yarn that there's 220 yards in 
those schemes and recent and I 

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use like a good bit of it. 
I would probably say I use close

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to 200. 
So and that's for like a, you 

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know, probably 14 inch animals, 
probably 14 inches in length or 

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so. 
But recently I designed a 

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Unicorn with loops and threads 
Demi parole yarn, which is 152 

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yards and I literally had inches
left. 

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So I really cut it close with 
that one and I don't like doing 

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that because if someone uses 
your pattern and they only buy 

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one scheme of it, but they don't
crochet with as tight of 

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attention that I do, then they 
might be stuck buying 2 schemes 

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and finding out, you know, when 
they have one leg left. 

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And that's just so frustrating 
to have to go to the store and 

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get another scheme. 
So the yardage definitely 

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matters and something you want 
to pay attention to. 

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If you're making something like 
a blanket though. 

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I mean, if you're making a baby 
blanket, maybe you would get 2 

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schemes. 
But if you want to make like a 

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throw blanket for your entire 
couch, I mean, you might need 8.

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It just depends how many yards 
are in one scheme. 

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But when you think about making 
like huge blankets like that, 

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it's going to it's going to get 
a little costly depending how 

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much the yarn is. 
I mean, if you need to buy 8 

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skeins anyway. 
So the next thing you are going 

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to look at is the fiber content.
And this is where you'll see a 

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list of percentages. 
So it might say 100% cotton or 

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90% acrylic slash 10% alpaca. 
So this tells you how the yarn 

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is going to behave. 
So cotton is going to have very 

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little stretch and is great for 
durability. 

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Wool is going to be warm and 
springy, and acrylic is often 

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durable and machine washable. 
That's the best thing about 

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acrylic. 
I know some people hate on 

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acrylic because it's cheap, but 
it's also just the most 

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practical. 
And I'm OK to say that because 

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acrylic yarns are what make 
blankets machine washable. 

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And I don't know about you, but 
I, I sure prefer that over hand 

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washing something. 
So This is why 2 yarns that look

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the same on the shelf feel 
different in your hands. 

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So if you're making a summer 
top, check this section to make 

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sure that you're not buying 100%
wool or you're going to be very 

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hot. 
Right? 

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All right, so now we're moving 
on to hook size. 

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You're going to see 2 little 
square icons. 

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One has a pair of crossed 
knitting needles and one has a 

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single crochet hook. 
And next to the crochet hook 

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symbol, there's going to be a 
number like 5.5mm or H-8. 

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And this is the manufacturer's 
recommendation for the best hook

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size to use with that yarn. 
However, this is a suggestion 

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not required. 
It's not a law. 

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So if you're making omegurumi, 
for example, you're going to 

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want to use a hook size that's 
smaller than what is recommended

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on the label to keep your 
stitches tight and keep the 

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stuffing from showing. 
But if you want to make 

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something like a flowy shawl or 
a big blanket, you might want to

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actually go up a size. 
But if you are just starting out

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and don't know where to start, 
just grab the hook size that is 

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listed on the label and you will
be just fine. 

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All right, so now let's talk 
about the box that most people 

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like to ignore, including me. 
This is the gauge box on the 

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label. 
This usually looks like a square

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grid with numbers along the side
that say 4 by 4 inches or 10 by 

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10 centimeters. 
And So what this tells you is if

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you use the recommended hook 
with this yarn and you crochet 

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this many stitches and this many
rows, you will get a four inch 

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square. 
So if you're making Omagorami, 

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you can mostly ignore this. 
But where gauge does matter is 

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when you're making a sweater or 
a hat or something where the 

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size is critical. 
So gauge is most important if 

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you're making wearables. 
But don't worry if you have 

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ignored Gage before. 
You are not alone. 

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I had one person reach out to me
in the last, you know what, 1314

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years to to say to tell me that 
they thought my gauge was wrong 

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on my patterns. 
But it's just not something I 

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pay attention to for Omagoromi. 
Some people are very particular 

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about it and if you're making 
wearables, then yes, like it 

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matters, but in my world it just
doesn't matter as much. 

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But anyway, that is what gauge 
means and how to interpret it. 

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All right, finally, we have a 
row of little shapes that look 

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like laundry tags and these are 
the care instructions. 

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You will see a little tub of 
water and this tells you if you 

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can machine wash it or if there 
is a hand in the tub. 

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It means hand wash only if you 
see a triangle. 

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This is for bleach rules. 
And then when you see a square, 

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this tells you how to dry it. 
So a circle inside the square 

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usually means you can tumble 
dry, while a flat line means you

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need to lay flat to dry. 
So before you start a baby 

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shower, Kift for example, look 
at these symbols. 

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If you give a new mom a blanket 
that has to be hand washed and 

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laid flat to dry, she might not 
love you for it. 

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For babies and kids, always 
check the machine wash symbol 

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first. 
Most acrylic yarns, like I said 

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earlier, are usually fine to be 
machine washed. 

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I made two, but I made two 
blankets for my son five years 

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ago and now I'm using them for 
the baby and they are still 

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going strong. 
I wash those blankets probably 

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once a week at this point and 
they're great. 

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I mean the the colour on one of 
them has faded a little bit, but

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I mean it's minimal and I mean 
that I don't have any loose 

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strings coming out. 
I mean everything's just whole. 

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It is held up so well. 
One of them was made with Baby 

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Burnett velvet yarn and the 
other one was more standard. 

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I don't recall the exact scheme 
but it was probably like a Loops

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and Threads impeccable or the 
Soft Classic. 

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It was just a standard forested 
wet yarn, but they're doing 

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great and they even get, you 
know, softer the more you wash 

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them. 
So it's it's so useful. 

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If you're making a baby blanket 
for someone, try to get ones 

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that that moms can wash in a 
machine. 

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She'll thank you for it later. 
One last thing, so near the 

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barcode there's usually a color 
name and a dye lot number, so 

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yarn is dyed in large batches. 
So even if you see two schemes 

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that say the colour is seafoam, 
if they come from different 

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batches, 1 might be slightly 
darker than the other, which is 

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incredibly frustrating. 
If I know that I'm going to need

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more than one scheme for 
something, I always hold them up

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in the light at the store to 
make sure they're perfectly 

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matched. 
Because it it's really 

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frustrating when you're buying 
when you need another scheme, 

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but you don't know that you're 
going to need it until days or 

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weeks later. 
You get around to it and then 

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you put it together and then you
pulled it up a little bit and 

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you're like, oh man, the shade, 
it's just like slightly off. 

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But that's why it's because the 
way they're manufactured. 

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If they're in different dye 
lots, sometimes they can just be

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slightly different. 
So just something to keep in 

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mind. 
But that is what that number 

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means. 
So at the end of the day, our 

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yarn label isn't a test that you
have to pass. 

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It's really just a tool in your 
kit. 

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And once you know what those 
little grids and skiing icons 

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mean, shopping becomes less 
overwhelming and a lot more 

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empowering. 
I mean, once you know, you don't

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have to guess anymore and you 
can start choosing yarns with 

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confidence. 
So the next time you're standing

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in the yarn aisle holding a 
scheme in your hands and reading

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those labels, I hope that you 
will remember this episode and I

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really hope that it is helpful. 
All right, friends, that is it 

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for this week. 
Please visit marcyma.co to 

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browse my crochet patterns. 
I have a new Unicorn pattern 

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that is dropping on Tuesday the 
13th and it's super fun. 

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And also come join us on school.
I have a free community in 

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school and we you're working on 
a hippo lovey right now for our 

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January crochet along so and 
that's it for today. 

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I will see you all next week.
