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But the creative directors who 
you know go to a new brand and 

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within a season they're expected
to effect great changes, very 

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noticeable changes. 
The danger being that the the 

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heritage of that brand is 
damaged or if not destroyed. 

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So you look at some brands where
there have been a series of 

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creative directors chopping in 
change and maybe 3 or 4 over the

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last 10 years, what's left of 
the original DNA of that brand 

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after? 
All that time. 

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I've never taken a bow at the 
end of a runway show because why

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is that? 
Because it would. 

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It seems arrogant and unless 
every single person in the 

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company from the chairman to the
to the to the cleaning staff 

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could come out with me and and 
take a take a bow because 

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they're the response responsible
too. 

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I. 
Mean, what would you say is sort

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of your the the thing that 
you're most proud of? 

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Surviving in the fashion 
industry for so long. 

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Today I'm going on a style 
journey with the supremely 

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talented British designer and 
creative director of Max Mara, 

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Ian Griffiths. 
Hello and welcome, Ian. 

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Hello, Amanda. 
Thank you. 

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It's very it's a great pleasure 
to be here. 

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Oh, it's lovely to have you 
here. 

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I must admit I've watched your 
work over the decades and 

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really, really been in awe of 
it. 

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Because 37 years at Reggio 
Emilia, yes, Wow. 

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I mean, is Italy more of your 
home than London or Britain now?

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Finally, after all these years, 
I have to admit that it is for 

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years and years I was in in 
denial. 

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I guess you'd say. 
You know, I used to race home 

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every weekend to here, to London
or to our cottage in Suffolk. 

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And I used to pretend that I 
wasn't living in Italy. 

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But finally after Brexit, I had 
to concede that that was my 

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home. 
I'm a resident there now. 

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I'm much happier because I live 
and work in the same place. 

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And so I feel more of a sense of
belonging there. 

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Yeah. 
And now I'm a kind of style 

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wise, I think I've turned into a
kind of Italian person's version

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of what an Englishman's like. 
If you can, if you if you can 

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understand that it's. 
So explain that to me. 

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Well, I've become a kind of 
caricature of myself or, yeah, a

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caricature of an English person 
in the way that I dress, in the 

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way that I behave. 
I mean, I don't know what an 

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English person would make of me 
if I was dressed as the way that

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I would be in, in Italy, because
it's quite ludicrously, 

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exaggeratedly English with the 
Savile Row suits and the Brooks 

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Brothers shirts and the churches
or the Chinese shoes. 

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I've kind of become like this, 
this Italian version of, of an 

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English person. 
And in a sense, being in Italy 

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has given me the freedom to to 
indulge that kind of fantasy. 

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So do you find that your style 
becomes it changes as you come 

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back to Britain? 
It changes slightly, especially 

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if I'm in Suffolk where I have 
the cottage, because there I 

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look most of the time like I'd 
slept in a hedge with my inside 

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out jumpers and my dirty jeans 
from gardening and my and my 

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soil encrusted fingernails, my 
shirts and jumpers with the 

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holes in the elbows. 
Love that, love that. 

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But Max Marra, coming back to 
that for a second, has this 

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wonderful reputation of keeping 
its staff, which speaks volumes 

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for the company culture. 
I mean, 38 years, it must feel 

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like you're really part of a 
large family. 

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Yes, exactly. 
I mean everyone knows that Max 

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Marra is a family owned company,
but Max Marra is a family and 

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we're not related by blood, but 
we're, we're close enough to 

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each other to be able to argue. 
I mean, that's the difference 

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between a normal corporate 
structure and Max Marra, that if

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we disagree, we can have a have 
a really good argument and there

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are no, there are no, yes, there
are no hard feelings afterwards.

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And I think that's one of the 
reasons why we're also committed

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to what we do and why the 
decisions we make are often the 

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right ones because we've argued 
them about. 

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Them so many times. 
And so would you say that is the

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secret for why people stay so 
long We're. 

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Arguing. 
I mean, in this ageist world 

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that we inhabit, what would you 
say is your secret to keeping 

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the collection ageless and yet 
so relevant and fresh? 

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You should put that question to 
my mother, who's 90, and she 

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very often points out, I mean, 
she's my greatest critic. 

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She very often points out, I 
mean, she says that there should

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be something in every collection
that she can wear, and she 

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insists that there is. 
But she often points out that 

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the things that she likes are 
the same things that my niece 

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likes. 
And she's 23. 

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So I think that really the 
secret to staying relevant is, 

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is think young and keep young. 
And if I take my mother as an 

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example, you know, the way that 
she keeps young and the way that

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I hopefully keep young, in my 
mentality at least, is by 

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constantly reading and talking 
and having a dialogue with young

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people constantly. 
Yeah. 

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I mean, do you have a lot of 
young people in the design 

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studio or is it a real mixture? 
It's a real mixture because on 

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on the one hand I've got people 
who've been with me for 32 

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years, so they're obviously not 
so young. 

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But then at the same time I've 
got, I mean, it's quite a small 

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team. 
At the same time, I've got 

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people who've graduated from 
college within the last to or 

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even or, or direct graduates 
from college. 

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So yes, there's a, there's a, 
there's a mixture, but I think 

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dialogue with young people keeps
you young. 

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Our listeners would be 
fascinated to understand what 

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your sort of day looks like. 
It depends where I am. 

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I mean, inspiration can come 
from anywhere. 

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You've just got to be open to it
and you never know when it's 

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going to strike next. 
I always think that in terms of 

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a starting point for a 
collection, the important thing 

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is never to try too hard. 
Because I think if you're going 

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to if you're going to design 
clothes that are easy to wear, 

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which hopefully Maximara clothes
are, then they have to be easy 

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to design as well. 
And anything difficult about the

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conception of them will show in 
the final, in the final product.

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So the inspiration very often 
just happens wherever I happen 

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to be. 
So I mean, one example, I was 

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talking about Suffolk just now, 
but I was walking with a friend 

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through the Suffolk countryside,
through the woods. 

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And we we came to Olbra and we 
stopped outside the house where 

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there was a blue plaque. 
And the, the blue plaque was to 

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commemorate the fact that 
Elizabeth Garrett had lived 

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there and she was, as you know, 
the the first lady mayor of 

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Obra. 
But more importantly, she, she 

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was, she founded the Garrett 
Hospital, I think the Garrett 

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wing of the. 
Hospital. 

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So I mean, she was a very 
important suffragette feminist. 

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And so that was the starting 
point for a a whole collection. 

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So you know, everything you do 
can inspire you or affect you or

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influence you in some way, which
is why it's so important to go 

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to the right places because 
wherever you go, you're going to

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be affected. 
So make sure you go to the the 

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nicest or the best places. 
Yeah, I I always have thought 

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that as a designer, your eyes 
are like sponges. 

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You're just constantly absorbing
and processing. 

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Yeah, so I, I've taught a lot 
and I've always said to the 

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students, you're a sponge and 
what comes out is what goes in. 

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So just be careful what you put 
in because it you know, it's, 

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it's all influences and they're 
all milling around in your head.

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Sometimes you see something and 
you don't refer to it until 

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years later, or the relevance of
it doesn't strike you until 

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years after you saw it. 
And sometimes you can revisit a 

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a theme. 
And do you take notes in a 

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notebook or sketch in a 
notebook, or do you take lots of

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photos? 
Or is it a combination? 

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Well, like everyone, I take lots
of photos these days and my 

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phone is, I mean, the number of 
photos we take now, now is, is 

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scary. 
In the old days we used to be 

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able to take 12 or 24 or 36 
exposures at a time, but now we 

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can take 36 photographs in 5 
minutes if we want to. 

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So my phone has got thousands 
and thousands of pictures. 

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I'd like to say that I kept a 
sketchbook, but I don't. 

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It all goes into my, into my 
head. 

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It's all it's all there 
mentally. 

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It's in in your head. 
It's one big boiling pot of 

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ideas all bubbling. 
Up. 

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I mean, as creative director, do
you touch everything from roduct

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to visuals to ad campaigns to 
even storefits? 

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Yes, I mean, that's all part of 
the part of the brief really, 

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because it's all part of the 
image of the product and the the

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product. 
It works in the context of a 

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store. 
It works in the context of a 

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campaign of a show. 
It's all to do with the image of

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the of the brand and the way 
people perceive it. 

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So it's very much in the remit 
of a creative director to be 

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interested in all of those 
things. 

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Fashion's going through a a very
interesting time right now. 

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You know, we've got you at Max 
Mara for 38 years and then this 

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sort of plethora of other 
creative directors being sort of

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moved around the chess board. 
Yes, musical chairs. 

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It is musical chairs. 
Yeah, I don't know how they do 

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it. 
I mean, I really sympathise with

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them. 
I don't know how a designer, 

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because a creative director is a
relatively new term. 

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I tend to think of myself as 
just an older designer, an old 

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designer if you like, no, stop 
it. 

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But but the creative directors 
who you know go to a new brand 

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and within a season they're 
expected to effect great 

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changes, very noticeable 
changes. 

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The danger being that the, the 
heritage of that brand is 

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damaged or if not destroyed and 
once it's gone, you can't get it

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back. 
So you look at some brands where

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there have been a series of 
creative directors chopping and 

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changing maybe 3 or 4 over the 
last 10 years. 

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What's left of the original DNA 
of that brand after all that 

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time? 
I mean, there are some shows now

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where I, I, I can see the 
personality of the designer more

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than I can see the personality 
of the brand. 

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And I don't know if that's a, a 
good thing or a bad thing. 

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But in terms of Max Mara, Max 
Mara will always be Max Mara 

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00:11:06,080 --> 00:11:10,240
primarily, which is one of the 
reasons why I tend to be quite 

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low key about my job. 
And are you, are you happy to be

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the the man behind the brand 
rather than at? 

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The yes, I've never taken a a 
bow at the end of a runway show 

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because why? 
Is that? 

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00:11:28,440 --> 00:11:32,320
Because it would, it seems 
arrogant and unless every single

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00:11:32,320 --> 00:11:36,880
person in the company from the 
chairman to the to the to the 

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00:11:36,880 --> 00:11:40,720
cleaning staff could come out 
with me and and take a take a 

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00:11:40,720 --> 00:11:44,960
bow because they're the response
responsible too, then obviously 

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not everyone can. 
So that's never going to happen.

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00:11:48,160 --> 00:11:51,360
And it would seem like an 
arrogance to take to take 

197
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responsibility for the for the 
whole thing or to to reap the 

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00:11:55,120 --> 00:11:58,520
rewards of something which is 
ultimately A-Team effort. 

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Not just my current team, but 
all the people who've gone 

200
00:12:01,040 --> 00:12:04,240
before me to build the identity 
of that brand. 

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00:12:04,360 --> 00:12:07,280
Yeah. 
That's that's fantastically 

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00:12:07,320 --> 00:12:09,720
humble. 
I mean talking about the 

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00:12:09,720 --> 00:12:15,520
identity of the brand, if I were
to ask you what the style DNA of

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Max Mara is in three words, what
3 words would those be? 

205
00:12:22,160 --> 00:12:30,160
Discreet glamour and elegance. 
But the the the important thing 

206
00:12:30,160 --> 00:12:35,520
is people think that Max Mara 
women want to be unobserved 

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00:12:35,520 --> 00:12:38,720
because they turn up wearing 
camel. 

208
00:12:39,000 --> 00:12:42,320
But what's discreet or 
unobservable? 

209
00:12:42,320 --> 00:12:45,320
What don't you notice about a 
woman who walks into a room 

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00:12:45,640 --> 00:12:49,480
dressed head to toe in camel? 
It's not because she doesn't 

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00:12:49,480 --> 00:12:51,960
want to be noticed. 
She does. 

212
00:12:52,440 --> 00:12:56,600
She wants people to say wow, but
she wants it to be a quiet vow. 

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00:12:57,800 --> 00:13:00,080
And that's the reaction you get 
when you wear Maximara. 

214
00:13:00,080 --> 00:13:02,160
Love. 
That, I mean, over the years 

215
00:13:02,640 --> 00:13:10,640
you've obviously evolved the the
brand codes and the brand DNAI 

216
00:13:10,640 --> 00:13:15,080
mean, what would you say is sort
of your, the, the thing that 

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00:13:15,080 --> 00:13:19,160
you're most proud of? 
Surviving in the fashion 

218
00:13:19,160 --> 00:13:25,160
industry for so long. 
Well, chapeau to that, because 

219
00:13:25,280 --> 00:13:26,400
it ain't. 
It ain't an easy one. 

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00:13:27,040 --> 00:13:30,160
The, the thing that I'm really 
most proud of, seriously is 

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00:13:30,160 --> 00:13:36,000
hopefully what I've done is I've
enriched the heritage rather 

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00:13:36,000 --> 00:13:38,400
than weaken it. 
You know, if I was talking about

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00:13:38,400 --> 00:13:42,040
other creative directors who've 
had the, you know, the dubious 

224
00:13:42,040 --> 00:13:45,440
honour of taking over a brand 
and, you know, doing what they 

225
00:13:45,440 --> 00:13:47,520
could within the shortest 
possible time. 

226
00:13:47,520 --> 00:13:50,880
You know, I had a long time to 
think about Max Murrow and what 

227
00:13:50,880 --> 00:13:55,200
it was before I was at the helm 
of the company and could make 

228
00:13:55,200 --> 00:13:58,800
those kind of decisions. 
So, you know, hopefully I've 

229
00:13:58,800 --> 00:14:01,400
made the right decision. 
So I'm going to leave that 

230
00:14:01,400 --> 00:14:05,400
heritage in an even stronger 
position than it was when I took

231
00:14:05,400 --> 00:14:07,760
over. 
So the, you know, when I, when, 

232
00:14:08,320 --> 00:14:13,160
when I can, I visit our archive 
and remind myself where we've 

233
00:14:13,160 --> 00:14:15,280
come from. 
And I feel quite proud. 

234
00:14:15,280 --> 00:14:18,720
You know, I look back and think,
well, I did this and I did that 

235
00:14:18,720 --> 00:14:22,160
and sometimes refer back to my 
own work because, you know, I 

236
00:14:22,160 --> 00:14:26,120
mean, I've been at Max Mara now 
for about 75 years, of Max Mara 

237
00:14:26,120 --> 00:14:28,160
this year. 
And I've been there for nearly 

238
00:14:28,160 --> 00:14:30,680
40. 
That's more than half Max Mara's

239
00:14:30,680 --> 00:14:33,680
life. 
And Max Mara's been has been 

240
00:14:33,680 --> 00:14:37,000
part of my life for over well 
over half of my life. 

241
00:14:37,000 --> 00:14:38,720
Well, really, your entire adult 
life? 

242
00:14:38,720 --> 00:14:41,600
But it has. 
It has since I was 26. 

243
00:14:42,280 --> 00:14:47,520
So, so you know that that's, 
that's my, my proudest 

244
00:14:47,520 --> 00:14:49,560
achievement. 
I think of you know, what I'll 

245
00:14:49,560 --> 00:14:54,480
leave behind when it's finally 
time to, to stop, which is a 

246
00:14:54,480 --> 00:14:57,080
long way off yet because I, I 
feel I've got so much more to 

247
00:14:57,080 --> 00:14:59,080
say. 
In fact, in some ways I feel 

248
00:14:59,080 --> 00:15:01,840
like I'm just getting into the 
swing of things. 

249
00:15:01,840 --> 00:15:04,720
I'm just beginning to learn the 
ropes of the job. 

250
00:15:04,960 --> 00:15:07,600
Yeah. 
But I, I think that's a lovely 

251
00:15:07,600 --> 00:15:13,600
thing about this decade that 
we're both in, is that there is 

252
00:15:13,600 --> 00:15:17,800
a lot of that feeling like we've
got all of this knowledge and 

253
00:15:17,800 --> 00:15:20,640
now it's about applying it in a 
new way. 

254
00:15:20,960 --> 00:15:22,640
And that's exciting. 
Yes. 

255
00:15:22,680 --> 00:15:25,400
I mean, I think the the keyword 
is elasticity. 

256
00:15:25,400 --> 00:15:27,880
You have to be elastic. 
And you're asking, you know, 

257
00:15:27,880 --> 00:15:30,880
what keeps you young. 
And that's one of the things you

258
00:15:30,880 --> 00:15:35,840
have to try and work on is to, 
to not think in a standard way, 

259
00:15:36,120 --> 00:15:40,040
to always think in a corporate 
speak a little bit outside the 

260
00:15:40,040 --> 00:15:44,640
box and, and, and keep on being 
as elastic as possible, being as

261
00:15:44,640 --> 00:15:49,400
open as possible to new ideas 
and use your experience, because

262
00:15:49,400 --> 00:15:54,080
we do have experience to use 
your experience in the in the 

263
00:15:54,080 --> 00:15:58,240
wisest possible way. 
I think that that that that, you

264
00:15:58,240 --> 00:16:03,720
know, one thing that that age 
age does have over youth in a 

265
00:16:03,720 --> 00:16:08,400
sense is is. 
Is the ability to apply your 

266
00:16:08,400 --> 00:16:12,360
experience in an effective kind 
of way, and while younger people

267
00:16:12,360 --> 00:16:15,240
maybe have more energy, more 
mature people. 

268
00:16:15,600 --> 00:16:19,080
Have the ability to use that 
energy in a way that's more 

269
00:16:19,080 --> 00:16:21,880
effective and and waste less 
time. 

270
00:16:22,200 --> 00:16:25,480
And that's something that you 
learn over the years or the 

271
00:16:25,480 --> 00:16:28,160
decades. 
Work smarter. 

272
00:16:28,520 --> 00:16:33,240
Yes, but I'm not, I'm not saying
that for for one moment that, 

273
00:16:33,640 --> 00:16:38,720
that, that, that more mature 
people or older people are more 

274
00:16:38,720 --> 00:16:40,560
effective than than younger 
people. 

275
00:16:40,560 --> 00:16:43,760
I mean, far from it. 
I think we've got we can all 

276
00:16:43,760 --> 00:16:46,240
learn all the time. 
From younger people. 

277
00:16:46,240 --> 00:16:49,880
Yeah, it's about staying 
inquisitive and interested, 

278
00:16:49,880 --> 00:16:51,520
isn't? 
It curious curiosity. 

279
00:16:51,520 --> 00:16:53,160
Curious. 
Yes. 

280
00:16:53,520 --> 00:16:58,400
I mean, what are you would you 
say you're most excited about? 

281
00:16:58,400 --> 00:17:02,560
And at the moment, if your skin 
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282
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283
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doesn't, and new concerns like 
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284
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routines should too. 
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Well. 

299
00:18:09,400 --> 00:18:15,920
Every aspect of the the job is 
excites me, but the most 

300
00:18:15,920 --> 00:18:21,240
exciting thing is to work on a 
runway show and they, they are 

301
00:18:21,240 --> 00:18:25,000
exhausting. 
And my team and my great team I 

302
00:18:25,000 --> 00:18:28,000
have around me, they're they're,
they're marvellous. 

303
00:18:28,000 --> 00:18:31,160
And but you know, doing a show 
really takes it out of 

304
00:18:31,160 --> 00:18:34,200
everybody. 
But I I always joke to them and 

305
00:18:34,200 --> 00:18:37,240
if I could I would do a show 
every single. 

306
00:18:37,240 --> 00:18:39,760
Week of the year somewhere in 
the world Glutton. 

307
00:18:40,320 --> 00:18:44,240
For I can't wait till the next 
one because, you know, doing a 

308
00:18:44,240 --> 00:18:49,120
show like that is, is, is such a
pure expression of, of, of the 

309
00:18:49,120 --> 00:18:53,960
brand with no compromise at all 
in terms of proportion or, or 

310
00:18:53,960 --> 00:18:58,360
silhouette or, or it's a, it's a
pure, such a pure statement. 

311
00:18:59,480 --> 00:19:02,440
And you don't get the 
opportunity to do that when 

312
00:19:02,440 --> 00:19:06,280
you're working on, on, on more, 
the more, more commercial 

313
00:19:06,280 --> 00:19:09,680
aspects of, of, of a collection.
I mean, and there's nothing 

314
00:19:09,680 --> 00:19:12,880
wrong with that at all. 
I mean, commercial is not a, not

315
00:19:12,880 --> 00:19:15,240
a dirty word to me at all. 
I've always believed that 

316
00:19:15,240 --> 00:19:20,160
fashion is by definition a 
commercial and and product is is

317
00:19:20,160 --> 00:19:23,400
what we deal in. 
But when it comes to a show, 

318
00:19:23,720 --> 00:19:25,920
everything has to be in its 
purest form. 

319
00:19:25,920 --> 00:19:29,760
And I and I love that from and I
love the image that we can 

320
00:19:29,760 --> 00:19:33,960
create using not just the 
clothes, but the casting and the

321
00:19:33,960 --> 00:19:38,440
hair and the makeup, the music, 
the lighting to create a total 

322
00:19:38,440 --> 00:19:41,120
atmosphere. 
I think that shows have evolved 

323
00:19:41,120 --> 00:19:45,440
now into something like theatre.
The only thing that we don't 

324
00:19:45,440 --> 00:19:50,360
have is a dialogue. 
It's like a play without words, 

325
00:19:50,800 --> 00:19:57,200
but it's but we can convey such 
nuanced emotion through the 

326
00:19:57,200 --> 00:20:00,040
runway now. 
And people are so susceptible to

327
00:20:00,040 --> 00:20:03,680
it because of the fact that 
everybody can see runway runway 

328
00:20:03,680 --> 00:20:09,160
shows now as they happen or just
after they happen on live feed 

329
00:20:09,160 --> 00:20:11,480
or, you know, on on catch up on 
YouTube. 

330
00:20:11,920 --> 00:20:15,400
So, you know, everybody's 
susceptible to that as an art 

331
00:20:15,400 --> 00:20:17,840
form. 
And it is a sort of contemporary

332
00:20:17,840 --> 00:20:22,600
theatre about the way that we we
feel as a culture. 

333
00:20:23,960 --> 00:20:27,240
Do you work with an external 
stylist on the show? 

334
00:20:27,720 --> 00:20:31,280
Who do you you know is there? 
Is there anyone else that comes 

335
00:20:31,280 --> 00:20:33,360
in to work on the show with you 
at? 

336
00:20:33,760 --> 00:20:37,480
The moment I'm working with Tony
Goodman, who is one of I'm the 

337
00:20:37,480 --> 00:20:41,080
legendary Tony Goodman amazing, 
who I absolutely love. 

338
00:20:41,160 --> 00:20:43,840
And you need that. 
You need a reaction. 

339
00:20:43,840 --> 00:20:47,200
You need a person that you trust
to say, you know, you ask them, 

340
00:20:47,200 --> 00:20:49,840
what do you think of this? 
And she'll tell me honestly what

341
00:20:49,840 --> 00:20:53,360
she thinks of that. 
And I will filter it through and

342
00:20:53,360 --> 00:20:59,040
Mull it over and process it and 
then either modify it or, or not

343
00:20:59,040 --> 00:21:02,560
according to what I think. 
Or, you know, sometimes it takes

344
00:21:02,560 --> 00:21:06,320
a few days for an idea to, to, 
to filter through. 

345
00:21:06,320 --> 00:21:10,200
But you know, I totally listen 
to what she says When, when, 

346
00:21:10,200 --> 00:21:11,960
when we're bouncing ideas off 
her. 

347
00:21:12,400 --> 00:21:16,800
And, and I've also in the past 
worked with Corinne Roydfelt, 

348
00:21:17,440 --> 00:21:20,400
who is another of fashion's LED.
I've been very lucky. 

349
00:21:20,640 --> 00:21:25,280
I've worked with legendary 
people in, in fashion in terms 

350
00:21:25,280 --> 00:21:28,520
of stylist, but also, you know, 
photographers and models. 

351
00:21:29,240 --> 00:21:32,040
And Corinne was also like huge 
influence. 

352
00:21:32,040 --> 00:21:35,600
And the thing I got from her was
Twytwad. 

353
00:21:36,200 --> 00:21:38,920
You know, Corinne has this 
wonderful French accent. 

354
00:21:39,320 --> 00:21:43,360
So I would, I would show 
something to her and I'd say, 

355
00:21:43,360 --> 00:21:47,000
and she would not look up. 
She'd be looking down on her 

356
00:21:47,000 --> 00:21:51,840
phone not noticing the model and
say after 5 minutes I would say,

357
00:21:52,160 --> 00:21:53,800
Corinne, what do you think of 
this? 

358
00:21:53,800 --> 00:21:57,800
And she'd be carrying, she'd 
say, I think it's Twytwad, which

359
00:21:57,800 --> 00:22:03,120
means trying too hard. 
So now in my design team, 

360
00:22:03,360 --> 00:22:07,960
Twytwad is a word that we use 
for things that are too forced 

361
00:22:07,960 --> 00:22:12,280
or or or or or too stylised, 
trying too hard. 

362
00:22:12,280 --> 00:22:14,960
Not effortless. 
Not effortless, and so as I was 

363
00:22:14,960 --> 00:22:17,800
saying, everything should be 
effortless and should never look

364
00:22:17,800 --> 00:22:20,480
difficult. 
I love that one. 

365
00:22:20,560 --> 00:22:23,120
One more question on on Max 
Mirror and then I promise I'll 

366
00:22:23,240 --> 00:22:27,840
I'll move on. 
But with the show, do all of 

367
00:22:27,840 --> 00:22:32,320
those pieces actually go into 
production, or are some of those

368
00:22:32,640 --> 00:22:36,600
literally to illustrate the 
message? 

369
00:22:37,320 --> 00:22:42,000
Most of them go into production.
I mean, in the old days we'd 

370
00:22:42,000 --> 00:22:46,320
moved from a position where the 
show was the icing on the cake 

371
00:22:46,320 --> 00:22:49,200
and not expected to be so 
commercial. 

372
00:22:49,240 --> 00:22:54,800
But now the show is. 
And it's a 2 edged sword in a 

373
00:22:54,800 --> 00:22:59,040
way, because now the, the runway
show is a, is a project which 

374
00:22:59,400 --> 00:23:02,800
has quite an important 
commercial dimension too, in the

375
00:23:02,800 --> 00:23:05,800
sense that, and that's why I 
don't think commercial's a dirty

376
00:23:05,800 --> 00:23:09,080
word in the sense that, you 
know, it's, it's runway, but 

377
00:23:09,080 --> 00:23:13,720
we're also selling it. 
So whereas once most of the 

378
00:23:13,720 --> 00:23:18,200
pieces that were on the runway 
were there just for show, now 

379
00:23:18,200 --> 00:23:20,240
they're there for commercial 
reasons too. 

380
00:23:21,320 --> 00:23:24,360
Fascinating. 
And I mean, we're living in this

381
00:23:24,360 --> 00:23:27,960
increasingly sort of non binary 
world. 

382
00:23:29,480 --> 00:23:34,640
And I just wondered where Max 
Mara is on that front because I 

383
00:23:35,040 --> 00:23:40,600
think of it as a sort of 
ultimately feminine brand that's

384
00:23:40,600 --> 00:23:46,480
all about the woman. 
But I have seen quite a lot of 

385
00:23:46,480 --> 00:23:51,080
men wear it beautifully. 
And I just wondered where where 

386
00:23:51,080 --> 00:23:53,560
your thinking was? 
At well, I I find this very 

387
00:23:53,560 --> 00:23:56,640
amusing. 
People are constantly asking me,

388
00:23:56,960 --> 00:23:58,760
you know, why we don't do 
menswear. 

389
00:23:59,280 --> 00:24:02,080
And you know, this phenomenon 
of, of men wearing Max Mara, 

390
00:24:02,440 --> 00:24:03,920
it's the first time it's ever 
happened. 

391
00:24:03,920 --> 00:24:08,440
As far as I know, in the whole 
history of, of, of, of fashion 

392
00:24:08,720 --> 00:24:11,840
that, that men have borrowed 
from the female wardrobe. 

393
00:24:12,200 --> 00:24:13,480
It's always been the other way 
around. 

394
00:24:13,480 --> 00:24:15,960
You know, women wearing 
boyfriend jackets or boyfriend 

395
00:24:15,960 --> 00:24:19,040
men's and the men's coats, which
is where the Max Mara originally

396
00:24:19,040 --> 00:24:21,440
came from. 
It was a was a the camel coat 

397
00:24:21,440 --> 00:24:26,040
was borrowed from the men's 
wardrobe, but now men are 

398
00:24:26,040 --> 00:24:28,560
borrowing them back. 
It's come full circle. 

399
00:24:29,000 --> 00:24:34,400
And it's not just younger men 
who are asking me when Max Mara 

400
00:24:34,400 --> 00:24:41,080
going to do menswear. 
My uncle, who's nearly 90, came 

401
00:24:41,080 --> 00:24:43,680
to visit me in Italy a few weeks
ago. 

402
00:24:43,680 --> 00:24:49,080
And he was asking because he was
saying that he, when he goes to 

403
00:24:49,080 --> 00:24:53,600
the Max Mara store with his 
wife, he, he would like 

404
00:24:53,600 --> 00:24:56,000
something that he could look at 
and, and try on. 

405
00:24:56,000 --> 00:24:59,800
So we should do menswear. 
And I was saying to him, Uncle, 

406
00:24:59,800 --> 00:25:03,640
you know, I mean, I don't think 
that, that the, that the Max 

407
00:25:03,640 --> 00:25:06,920
Mara would coat would translate 
in a way that would, that you 

408
00:25:06,920 --> 00:25:10,600
would feel comfortable wearing 
as a, as an older sort of man, 

409
00:25:10,840 --> 00:25:15,360
maybe on a younger skinnier guy,
it, it works. 

410
00:25:15,360 --> 00:25:17,280
But maybe for you Uncle, it 
wouldn't. 

411
00:25:17,280 --> 00:25:19,600
Work. 
And so we went back to my flat 

412
00:25:19,600 --> 00:25:23,840
and I was, I had a few Max Mara 
coats I had made for myself in 

413
00:25:23,840 --> 00:25:27,240
my size and he tried one on and 
he just walked out the door with

414
00:25:27,240 --> 00:25:29,800
it. 
That was it, that was it. 

415
00:25:31,640 --> 00:25:36,520
So men of all ages are asking 
for Max Mara menswear. 

416
00:25:37,120 --> 00:25:42,240
And is that ever a possibility? 
There's an ideological reason 

417
00:25:42,280 --> 00:25:46,240
why it's not, you know, if Max 
Mara has been there with a 

418
00:25:46,240 --> 00:25:51,400
mission to, to, to help women 
empower themselves over the 

419
00:25:51,400 --> 00:25:56,040
years. 
And I don't think that the, that

420
00:25:56,040 --> 00:25:59,160
that struggle is over yet. 
I still think the glass ceiling 

421
00:25:59,160 --> 00:26:02,680
is in place. 
The women have risen to to great

422
00:26:02,680 --> 00:26:05,040
heights. 
But you know that the the the 

423
00:26:05,040 --> 00:26:09,000
journey isn't quite over to 
sudden Max Burrow is one of the 

424
00:26:09,000 --> 00:26:12,440
things that women had that that 
men didn't have. 

425
00:26:12,800 --> 00:26:17,160
To suddenly give that to men as 
well would be taking the 

426
00:26:17,160 --> 00:26:19,880
advantage away. 
One of the few advantages that 

427
00:26:19,880 --> 00:26:23,120
women have. 
So I think that's an ideological

428
00:26:23,120 --> 00:26:26,400
reason why for the time being, 
Max Mara won't be doing 

429
00:26:26,400 --> 00:26:29,200
menswear. 
And in the meantime, the only 

430
00:26:29,200 --> 00:26:33,080
person in the whole world who 
who has Max Mara menswear is the

431
00:26:33,160 --> 00:26:34,080
man. 
I'm looking at. 

432
00:26:36,120 --> 00:26:40,880
Because I'm lucky enough I get 
the fabrics and I I go to to to 

433
00:26:40,880 --> 00:26:44,440
my tailor, Timothy Everest. 
So you. 

434
00:26:44,560 --> 00:26:46,840
Bring them. 
Bring them over. 

435
00:26:46,920 --> 00:26:50,800
Yes. 
And he, he makes my, he makes 

436
00:26:50,800 --> 00:26:53,640
my, my, my, my suits and my 
jackets. 

437
00:26:54,000 --> 00:26:59,240
And then I have another tailor 
called Jo Allen in, in Islington

438
00:26:59,520 --> 00:27:03,480
who makes my duffel coats. 
So I get those beautiful sort of

439
00:27:03,600 --> 00:27:07,560
cashmere duffel coats, double 
faced, double faced cashmere 

440
00:27:08,560 --> 00:27:11,440
duffel coats. 
Lovely, but you never have 

441
00:27:11,440 --> 00:27:15,080
anything made in Italy. 
No, I don't, ironically, apart 

442
00:27:15,080 --> 00:27:18,600
from a few apart. 
From a few coats that are in the

443
00:27:18,600 --> 00:27:20,520
back of my wardrobe. 
But are they? 

444
00:27:20,560 --> 00:27:23,400
Those coats are more based on a 
Max Mara. 

445
00:27:23,400 --> 00:27:28,440
They're Max Mara sized up so or 
slightly modified and that's it 

446
00:27:28,440 --> 00:27:31,880
was one of those that my uncle 
went off with a few weeks ago. 

447
00:27:32,160 --> 00:27:34,920
I mean, I didn't intend for him 
to to run off with it at all. 

448
00:27:34,920 --> 00:27:36,640
I I, you know, I was quite 
surprised. 

449
00:27:36,880 --> 00:27:39,240
I felt too polite to say 
actually, I was going to have 

450
00:27:39,240 --> 00:27:42,160
you one made if you liked it, 
but he he was already gone by 

451
00:27:42,160 --> 00:27:43,400
that time. 
Oh, I love it. 

452
00:27:43,760 --> 00:27:46,760
I love it. 
Now today we are here to talk 

453
00:27:46,760 --> 00:27:52,120
about your personal style and so
we're going on the style journey

454
00:27:52,120 --> 00:27:54,560
together. 
I'd love you to talk me through 

455
00:27:54,560 --> 00:27:59,120
what you're wearing. 
I'm wearing my blazer, it's one 

456
00:27:59,120 --> 00:28:01,160
of my favourite jackets I've 
got. 

457
00:28:01,640 --> 00:28:05,320
I don't know, maybe 60 suits and
jackets hanging in my wardrobe 

458
00:28:05,320 --> 00:28:10,880
made by the same guy. 
Timothy Everest in in grey 

459
00:28:10,880 --> 00:28:16,280
flannel. 
And I'm wearing a Brooks 

460
00:28:16,280 --> 00:28:18,160
Brothers shirts. 
I only wear Brooks Brothers 

461
00:28:18,160 --> 00:28:22,480
shirts and I've bemoaned the 
fact they've now got lycra in 

462
00:28:22,480 --> 00:28:23,960
them because I prefer them when 
they didn't. 

463
00:28:24,240 --> 00:28:27,960
So if anyone from Brooks 
Brothers is listening, if you 

464
00:28:27,960 --> 00:28:30,440
can do shirts without. 
Totally. 

465
00:28:30,800 --> 00:28:33,840
Without stretching them. 
And I'm wearing books by those 

466
00:28:33,840 --> 00:28:37,680
trousers and I'm wearing some 
trainers from Todd's. 

467
00:28:38,320 --> 00:28:44,880
And this is a kind of relaxed, 
relaxed day in London look, I 

468
00:28:44,880 --> 00:28:47,440
guess. 
But gold buttons on your blazer?

469
00:28:47,440 --> 00:28:49,560
Gold buttons on the blazer, but 
they haven't got a Crest on 

470
00:28:49,560 --> 00:28:51,080
them. 
They're just, there's plain gold

471
00:28:51,080 --> 00:28:55,800
buttons and, and over that I 
have my my cashmere duffel coat.

472
00:28:56,240 --> 00:28:58,080
Your Max Mara. 
No Max Mara. 

473
00:28:58,080 --> 00:29:02,240
Spoke Timothy Everest. 
No, sorry, it wasn't Timothy. 

474
00:29:02,240 --> 00:29:03,480
Everest. 
No, that's Joe Allen. 

475
00:29:03,480 --> 00:29:06,360
Yeah, Joe Allen. 
Yeah, and my, my, my, my, my 

476
00:29:06,360 --> 00:29:09,240
style flourish is always a a 
pocket handkerchief. 

477
00:29:09,240 --> 00:29:11,920
Every day I have to have a 
pocket handkerchief. 

478
00:29:11,920 --> 00:29:13,520
I don't feel dressed without a 
pocket now. 

479
00:29:13,840 --> 00:29:18,280
I had read about that what what 
is the origins of the pocket 

480
00:29:18,280 --> 00:29:20,640
square? 
The pocket square is just a way 

481
00:29:20,640 --> 00:29:23,240
of personalising I actually 
really. 

482
00:29:23,720 --> 00:29:26,600
Nobody wears ties anymore, but 
I, I really enjoyed wearing them

483
00:29:26,600 --> 00:29:30,520
because they're a way of, of 
adding a, a personal touch to 

484
00:29:30,760 --> 00:29:33,200
whatever you're wearing, 
particularly something that's 

485
00:29:33,200 --> 00:29:35,720
quite classic like a, a shirt 
and a jacket. 

486
00:29:35,720 --> 00:29:38,720
It's just something that can be,
it can be quite classic or it 

487
00:29:38,720 --> 00:29:41,760
can be quite quaint to you can 
choose all sorts of patterns and

488
00:29:41,760 --> 00:29:44,720
colours or you can harmonise or 
you can contrast. 

489
00:29:45,160 --> 00:29:48,920
But given that we don't wear 
ties anymore, not not even guys 

490
00:29:48,920 --> 00:29:53,360
in the city wear ties anymore. 
The pocket square is a way of 

491
00:29:53,680 --> 00:29:57,000
just personalizing things in the
way that you could wear a piece 

492
00:29:57,000 --> 00:30:03,720
of jewellery or a scarf, or it's
just something that that adds a 

493
00:30:03,880 --> 00:30:06,480
personal touch or a bit of 
whimsy. 

494
00:30:06,960 --> 00:30:09,760
And do you collect them on your 
travels? 

495
00:30:09,800 --> 00:30:12,680
I've got hundreds and hundreds 
and people sometimes send them 

496
00:30:12,680 --> 00:30:14,240
to me because they know that I 
love them. 

497
00:30:15,640 --> 00:30:19,920
So I've got a whole drawer full 
at home which occasionally my my

498
00:30:19,920 --> 00:30:24,680
my my poor hard working 
housekeeper attempts to to to to

499
00:30:24,680 --> 00:30:28,240
colour code and within a week 
they're all messed up again as I

500
00:30:28,240 --> 00:30:32,560
go through but looking for the 
right one or sometimes not, not 

501
00:30:32,560 --> 00:30:35,280
being able to decide. 
Do you remember when you first 

502
00:30:36,560 --> 00:30:40,840
chose to wear a pocket square? 
No, I can't. 

503
00:30:40,840 --> 00:30:42,880
I can't review. 
It's like antediluvian. 

504
00:30:42,880 --> 00:30:45,120
I can't remember that far back. 
I've always worn them. 

505
00:30:45,760 --> 00:30:48,280
But you grew up in Derbyshire? 
Yes, I did. 

506
00:30:48,280 --> 00:30:51,480
Yes. 
And then went to Union 

507
00:30:51,480 --> 00:30:52,760
Manchester. 
Yes, I did. 

508
00:30:53,040 --> 00:30:55,680
But were you very aware of your 
parents style growing up? 

509
00:30:55,720 --> 00:30:59,320
My mother's I was very much 
aware and in fact I brought a 

510
00:30:59,320 --> 00:31:05,160
photograph today I which I found
and this shows my my mother and 

511
00:31:05,160 --> 00:31:08,640
father. 
This is just glorious on their 

512
00:31:08,680 --> 00:31:14,280
wedding day. 
On their wedding day in 1957 and

513
00:31:14,280 --> 00:31:18,200
my mother who's still alive and 
still wears Max Mara, as I say, 

514
00:31:20,520 --> 00:31:23,840
this is a dress that she made 
herself because she she couldn't

515
00:31:23,840 --> 00:31:25,680
afford to to buy many clothes 
so. 

516
00:31:25,920 --> 00:31:29,240
It was a copy of a Balenciaga, 
but she copied the right things.

517
00:31:30,000 --> 00:31:33,320
And there she is on her wedding 
day in 1957. 

518
00:31:33,840 --> 00:31:38,880
And, and she was, she was my 
first muse and, and still is 

519
00:31:38,880 --> 00:31:43,160
really. 
And she I spoke to her this 

520
00:31:43,160 --> 00:31:47,840
morning and and she always 
critiques me or she she tells me

521
00:31:47,960 --> 00:31:50,520
exactly what was good or bad. 
About the last collection that I

522
00:31:50,520 --> 00:31:53,320
did, wow. 
That's that's something. 

523
00:31:53,480 --> 00:31:58,480
But do you, do you remember that
moment that you put first, put 

524
00:31:58,480 --> 00:32:02,640
something on as a as a child 
that you felt particularly 

525
00:32:02,640 --> 00:32:08,400
dapper in or felt just a bit? 
Yeah, yes, I do, I do. 

526
00:32:08,440 --> 00:32:11,840
And and her mother was involved 
because she made my brother and 

527
00:32:11,840 --> 00:32:15,680
I little Beetle suits. 
It was the 60s and we were, my 

528
00:32:15,680 --> 00:32:19,800
dad was working in London. 
He was a sort of executive in 

529
00:32:19,800 --> 00:32:22,680
the computer industry. 
In fact he was working in 

530
00:32:22,680 --> 00:32:24,240
Putney, just over the the 
Bridge. 

531
00:32:24,720 --> 00:32:27,800
He used to work for a company 
called ICL International 

532
00:32:27,800 --> 00:32:32,120
Computers Limited and we we were
coming down to visit him for the

533
00:32:32,120 --> 00:32:35,800
week while he was at work. 
And she made these little suits,

534
00:32:35,800 --> 00:32:40,760
this grey flannel little shorts,
beetle suits with no collar and 

535
00:32:40,760 --> 00:32:45,400
little red polar necks to match.
And I felt so smart and so 

536
00:32:45,400 --> 00:32:49,320
dapper, but it was really snowy.
So she said, well, you can't 

537
00:32:49,320 --> 00:32:51,880
because your legs will be cold. 
And I insisted on wearing mine 

538
00:32:51,880 --> 00:32:54,400
anyway, even though I was 
freezing cold. 

539
00:32:54,920 --> 00:32:57,280
Because, you know, and that's. 
Another thing I learned from 

540
00:32:57,280 --> 00:33:00,680
her, she always used to say you 
have to suffer to be beautiful 

541
00:33:01,080 --> 00:33:02,240
and. 
I. 

542
00:33:03,280 --> 00:33:05,440
And I always did. 
Were you wearing knee length 

543
00:33:05,480 --> 00:33:07,320
socks? 
Yes, I was wearing knee length 

544
00:33:07,320 --> 00:33:11,880
length socks and little little 
lace up shoes like a little like

545
00:33:11,880 --> 00:33:15,120
a little Beatles boy with my my 
hair was cut in little Beatles. 

546
00:33:15,240 --> 00:33:19,160
But when did your passion for 
fashion get really ignited? 

547
00:33:20,320 --> 00:33:26,000
That would have been around in 
the late 70s when I was kind of 

548
00:33:26,000 --> 00:33:31,200
16/17/18, the latter years at 
school when I discovered I was 

549
00:33:31,200 --> 00:33:34,320
very bright at school. 
But at a certain point, I became

550
00:33:34,320 --> 00:33:38,000
a little bit less interested in 
the academic side and more 

551
00:33:38,000 --> 00:33:42,080
interested in the, the club 
scene and, and the, the, the, 

552
00:33:42,160 --> 00:33:44,840
the punk scene, which was just 
happening in the 70s. 

553
00:33:44,840 --> 00:33:50,000
And I went from being an ideal 
student to being a rebel just 

554
00:33:50,000 --> 00:33:53,880
about overnight. 
And that's when I was driving my

555
00:33:53,880 --> 00:33:58,520
poor parents absolutely mad. 
And as I fell into the, the punk

556
00:33:58,520 --> 00:34:02,640
scene and the, the club scene 
and started wearing the most 

557
00:34:02,640 --> 00:34:07,760
outrageous outfits, which got 
more and more outrageous as we 

558
00:34:07,760 --> 00:34:11,159
moved into the late 70's, the 
early 80's, the new, what's 

559
00:34:11,159 --> 00:34:16,520
so-called new romantic scene? 
I mean, so-called, I, I hated 

560
00:34:16,520 --> 00:34:19,840
the word and we all hated the 
word new romantic because it, it

561
00:34:19,840 --> 00:34:23,520
kind of dumbed down what was 
actually a very creative and 

562
00:34:23,880 --> 00:34:27,600
inspiring way of dressing. 
But some of my outfits were 

563
00:34:28,120 --> 00:34:31,080
bizarre to say the least, very 
flamboyant. 

564
00:34:31,760 --> 00:34:35,760
And my, my, my poor mum was 
taking down the, the curtains in

565
00:34:35,760 --> 00:34:38,679
the, in the sitting room one day
and I was at home for the 

566
00:34:38,679 --> 00:34:41,760
afternoon, about to go back to 
Manchester where I was at 

567
00:34:41,760 --> 00:34:44,760
college. 
So I was in, in Derbyshire and 

568
00:34:44,760 --> 00:34:45,960
she was taking down the 
curtains. 

569
00:34:46,239 --> 00:34:50,159
There was some gold, a gold 
brocade fabric. 

570
00:34:50,880 --> 00:34:53,520
And I said, Mum, are you, are 
you going to throw this away? 

571
00:34:53,520 --> 00:34:55,520
She said yes. 
Before she knew what I'd done. 

572
00:34:55,520 --> 00:34:58,000
I'd I'd made them in. 
I'd whisked them up on her 

573
00:34:58,000 --> 00:34:59,680
sewing machine. 
Like zip zip. 

574
00:35:00,120 --> 00:35:04,560
Zip, zip 4 seams and made like a
little, a little suit and I, I, 

575
00:35:04,760 --> 00:35:08,440
I, I, I, I skipped down the the 
drive and caught the bus back to

576
00:35:08,880 --> 00:35:10,720
Manchester to go clubbing that 
evening. 

577
00:35:11,120 --> 00:35:15,240
So that was a typical, a typical
moment from those from those 

578
00:35:15,240 --> 00:35:18,240
years when they were so 
creative. 

579
00:35:18,240 --> 00:35:21,520
And that's when my, my interest 
in fashion really, really 

580
00:35:21,520 --> 00:35:24,000
manifested itself. 
Even though I was studying 

581
00:35:24,000 --> 00:35:27,520
architecture at the time. 
Not for long because I was very 

582
00:35:27,520 --> 00:35:33,560
quickly encouraged to leave 
architectural school and and and

583
00:35:33,560 --> 00:35:38,240
and full became a full time 
clubber for a couple of years at

584
00:35:38,240 --> 00:35:44,720
Pips in Manchester and then the 
Hacienda when it opened and that

585
00:35:44,720 --> 00:35:49,120
it was a great time and then 
finally went back to college to 

586
00:35:49,240 --> 00:35:52,880
to study fashion. 
To much much to my parents 

587
00:35:52,880 --> 00:35:55,320
relief. 
I can remember sitting on a on a

588
00:35:55,320 --> 00:36:01,000
park bench in Norwich with my 
mum, waiting for the train back 

589
00:36:01,000 --> 00:36:05,280
to Manchester again, my poor 
long-suffering mum, and 

590
00:36:05,280 --> 00:36:08,480
explaining to her that I was 
thinking of going back to what 

591
00:36:08,480 --> 00:36:12,640
was then Manchester Polytechnic 
to resume my studies in fashion.

592
00:36:13,400 --> 00:36:16,680
And she was so relieved that I 
was going to do something 

593
00:36:16,960 --> 00:36:19,160
worthwhile. 
I think they were so worried 

594
00:36:19,160 --> 00:36:23,600
that I was going to end up just 
being an ageing club kid forever

595
00:36:23,600 --> 00:36:25,400
do. 
You remember what you wore for 

596
00:36:25,400 --> 00:36:28,400
your first day at Fashion 
College. 

597
00:36:28,640 --> 00:36:31,480
I wore a blue leather suit. 
Had you made? 

598
00:36:31,480 --> 00:36:34,400
It yes, of course, yes. 
Everything I made, we, we always

599
00:36:34,400 --> 00:36:37,400
made our clothes ourselves. 
I mean, I used to feel sorry for

600
00:36:37,400 --> 00:36:41,280
people who, who had to buy their
clothes from a shop because, 

601
00:36:41,280 --> 00:36:43,920
because I thought, you know, 
they, they didn't have the 

602
00:36:43,960 --> 00:36:47,720
creativity or the originality or
the, OR the technical skills to 

603
00:36:47,720 --> 00:36:50,480
make their own. 
But hang on technical skills. 

604
00:36:50,560 --> 00:36:53,800
Blue leather suit? 
That's not straightforward. 

605
00:36:54,080 --> 00:36:57,680
How did you learn the sort of 
pattern cutting of that before 

606
00:36:57,680 --> 00:37:00,440
you were even at college? 
Well, I mean, it's not brain 

607
00:37:00,440 --> 00:37:02,440
surgery. 
I mean, to become a brain 

608
00:37:02,440 --> 00:37:05,000
surgeon, you know, you have to 
know what's happening inside 

609
00:37:05,000 --> 00:37:07,800
people's heads. 
But to make a jacket, all you 

610
00:37:07,800 --> 00:37:12,360
need to do is take an old jacket
and take it apart and you can 

611
00:37:12,360 --> 00:37:14,280
see how it's cut and 
constructed. 

612
00:37:14,560 --> 00:37:16,880
And clothes are around us all 
the time. 

613
00:37:17,200 --> 00:37:18,640
You know, they're not, they're 
not hidden. 

614
00:37:18,960 --> 00:37:21,920
So it, it, it's quite easy to 
learn for yourself. 

615
00:37:22,360 --> 00:37:24,480
I discovered, you know, one of 
the reasons I went back to 

616
00:37:24,480 --> 00:37:28,160
college was because I thought 
there was some great technical 

617
00:37:28,160 --> 00:37:29,800
secret that I was going to be 
taught. 

618
00:37:29,800 --> 00:37:33,200
In fact, there wasn't. 
And I knew just about everything

619
00:37:33,200 --> 00:37:35,840
already. 
I I just learned how to do it 

620
00:37:35,840 --> 00:37:39,240
with a little bit more finesse. 
And was that disappointing? 

621
00:37:39,880 --> 00:37:42,000
No, it wasn't. 
It wasn't disappointing at all. 

622
00:37:42,000 --> 00:37:44,440
Reassuring. 
It was reassuring, yes, because.

623
00:37:44,760 --> 00:37:47,800
I mean, there's a lot to be said
for doing something with 

624
00:37:47,800 --> 00:37:50,200
finesse. 
Although I knew how a sleeve was

625
00:37:50,200 --> 00:37:54,160
set in or how a dart worked, you
know, I learnt how to do it 

626
00:37:54,160 --> 00:37:58,920
accurately and I learnt the 
finer points of, of, of cutting 

627
00:37:58,920 --> 00:38:03,040
a pattern or, and even now, you 
know, as a, as a person who 

628
00:38:03,280 --> 00:38:06,960
designs, but I don't have to 
make the clothes myself, you 

629
00:38:06,960 --> 00:38:11,360
know, the ability to, to spot 
precisely what's wrong with 

630
00:38:11,360 --> 00:38:13,640
something. 
I mean, you know, a millimetre 

631
00:38:13,640 --> 00:38:15,720
here, a millimetre there makes 
all the difference. 

632
00:38:15,720 --> 00:38:18,560
So that's what I learnt when I 
was at Manchester. 

633
00:38:19,000 --> 00:38:24,480
And it was in my third year 
there that Ozzy Clark came along

634
00:38:24,800 --> 00:38:30,640
as a tutor and he was the one 
that encouraged me to apply to 

635
00:38:30,640 --> 00:38:33,040
the Royal College of Art in 
London here. 

636
00:38:33,560 --> 00:38:35,400
And so he. 
Spotted your talent? 

637
00:38:35,400 --> 00:38:38,000
Yeah, he was. 
It was because of him that the 

638
00:38:38,000 --> 00:38:40,640
whole thing started. 
If if it hadn't been for him, I 

639
00:38:40,640 --> 00:38:44,480
would still have been up in 
Manchester clubbing away 

640
00:38:45,520 --> 00:38:49,000
probably. 
And then you came down to the 

641
00:38:49,000 --> 00:38:53,960
Royal College. 
Had your style evolved? 

642
00:38:54,680 --> 00:38:57,720
It had to. 
It had to because. 

643
00:38:59,800 --> 00:39:03,720
The. 
The, the, the, the shock head 

644
00:39:03,720 --> 00:39:07,040
punk look had to go eventually, 
which it gradually did. 

645
00:39:07,040 --> 00:39:11,400
And things become a lot, a lot 
tamer after 1985. 

646
00:39:12,160 --> 00:39:14,760
But we were still in the 80s. 
We still had five more years of 

647
00:39:14,760 --> 00:39:16,640
the 80s. 
So you know how that was an age 

648
00:39:16,640 --> 00:39:19,560
of great excess. 
And when I came down to London, 

649
00:39:19,560 --> 00:39:22,280
when in fact slightly before and
during the holidays, I used to 

650
00:39:22,280 --> 00:39:24,440
work at Browns in South Malton 
Street. 

651
00:39:24,440 --> 00:39:28,720
So great credit to Joan Burstein
who was, you know, one of the 

652
00:39:28,720 --> 00:39:35,280
big influences in my, in my 
style DNA life because I learnt 

653
00:39:35,280 --> 00:39:38,800
so much from her. 
And you know, my image when I 

654
00:39:38,800 --> 00:39:40,840
was working at Browns had had to
change. 

655
00:39:41,960 --> 00:39:45,680
I still made my own clothes. 
But it was it that by this time 

656
00:39:45,680 --> 00:39:49,640
we were wearing, if you 
remember, it was all sort of 

657
00:39:49,640 --> 00:39:55,120
Paisley jacquard shirts and 
quite, quite, quite rich looking

658
00:39:56,120 --> 00:40:01,040
Paisley prints and little tiny 
cashmere patterns. 

659
00:40:03,360 --> 00:40:06,720
But it was a. 
Still, a lot of hair and makeup 

660
00:40:06,720 --> 00:40:10,080
was going on. 
And were you still making most 

661
00:40:10,080 --> 00:40:10,960
of your own? 
Wardrobe. 

662
00:40:10,960 --> 00:40:12,440
Oh yes, I was. 
Yeah, yeah. 

663
00:40:12,440 --> 00:40:13,800
And. 
Where were you getting your 

664
00:40:13,800 --> 00:40:17,160
fabrics from? 
Well, in those days they used to

665
00:40:17,160 --> 00:40:21,400
come from, from anywhere that I 
could find them, but Soho had a 

666
00:40:21,400 --> 00:40:24,160
lot of shop. 
I'd probably want leftover 

667
00:40:24,160 --> 00:40:27,800
fabrics from your from your from
your house because they they 

668
00:40:27,800 --> 00:40:31,120
would, they would, they would 
sell designer off cuts or 

669
00:40:31,120 --> 00:40:33,720
remnants. 
So you I would use those or 

670
00:40:33,720 --> 00:40:36,640
things from the market. 
Or sometimes there were there 

671
00:40:36,640 --> 00:40:40,200
were old curtains, or old saris,
or things from jumble sales. 

672
00:40:40,200 --> 00:40:41,920
Saris were great. 
Saris were great because the 

673
00:40:41,920 --> 00:40:45,200
fabrics were so opulent. 
Would you design something in 

674
00:40:45,200 --> 00:40:48,000
your head and then go and look 
for the fabrics, or would you 

675
00:40:48,000 --> 00:40:50,920
look for the fabrics and be 
inspired as to what you were 

676
00:40:50,920 --> 00:40:53,120
going to make? 
It would be the fabric that I 

677
00:40:53,240 --> 00:40:55,600
would start with the fabric and 
think what can I make from this?

678
00:40:56,080 --> 00:40:58,920
But it had to be quick. 
I mean, shirts never had buttons

679
00:40:58,920 --> 00:41:00,800
on them. 
I used to pin them shirt. 

680
00:41:01,120 --> 00:41:04,600
So if, if if if you moved 
uncomfortably during the day, 

681
00:41:04,600 --> 00:41:06,880
you'd scratch yourself because 
you didn't have you didn't have 

682
00:41:07,160 --> 00:41:08,800
buttons, the pins would scratch 
you. 

683
00:41:08,960 --> 00:41:12,200
And did you ever did you ever 
buy vintage at that stage? 

684
00:41:14,120 --> 00:41:17,560
I would buy it to adapt it. 
I never wore vintage as it was 

685
00:41:18,120 --> 00:41:20,680
as as as I bought it. 
In fact. 

686
00:41:20,680 --> 00:41:24,360
Do you remember when you used to
buy really flared trousers from 

687
00:41:24,360 --> 00:41:26,000
the 70s? 
We tried to take them in. 

688
00:41:26,000 --> 00:41:28,880
But when you try and take in 
flared trousers, the tweak the 

689
00:41:28,880 --> 00:41:30,920
seams all twist around your 
legs. 

690
00:41:30,920 --> 00:41:32,760
Yeah. 
Remember that well. 

691
00:41:34,480 --> 00:41:36,560
I used to buy those from jumbo 
sales and things. 

692
00:41:36,840 --> 00:41:41,240
So yes, I was working at Browns 
by this start, this stage and I 

693
00:41:41,240 --> 00:41:44,760
was still making my own clothes 
and, and, and, and, and what 

694
00:41:44,760 --> 00:41:49,760
Brown's taught me was that even 
expensive designer clothes are 

695
00:41:49,760 --> 00:41:54,440
still commercial products. 
The 1st morning that I was 

696
00:41:54,440 --> 00:41:57,440
selling at Brown's I was working
in the men's department first of

697
00:41:57,440 --> 00:42:02,440
all, and a customer came in to 
try on a pair of Catherine 

698
00:42:02,440 --> 00:42:06,800
Hamlet trousers which I thought 
were great and he said I'll have

699
00:42:06,800 --> 00:42:09,520
them. 
I nearly fainted because I just 

700
00:42:09,520 --> 00:42:11,400
didn't. 
It hadn't occurred to me that 

701
00:42:11,400 --> 00:42:13,280
people actually bought these 
clothes. 

702
00:42:13,280 --> 00:42:15,320
I just thought it was like a 
museum and. 

703
00:42:17,080 --> 00:42:21,440
Did Mrs. B ever see you in 
something and say, God, that is 

704
00:42:21,760 --> 00:42:25,600
really good, Ian? 
She did, she, no, she often did.

705
00:42:25,600 --> 00:42:29,400
She often did and, and, and, and
sometimes, in fact, when we were

706
00:42:29,400 --> 00:42:32,760
doing the Elias store, she was 
the first, I mean, she was, she 

707
00:42:32,760 --> 00:42:34,680
was a pioneer in so, so many 
ways. 

708
00:42:35,040 --> 00:42:38,840
We were the first to have her as
Dean Elias store in London and 

709
00:42:38,840 --> 00:42:42,960
she she wanted me to work in in 
the Elia store, but she thought 

710
00:42:42,960 --> 00:42:46,440
I had great legs. 
So she so she she wanted me to 

711
00:42:46,440 --> 00:42:48,720
wear the Elia leggings and so I 
did. 

712
00:42:48,720 --> 00:42:52,480
So I used to wear Elia leggings 
with a sort of you, you always 

713
00:42:52,480 --> 00:42:55,160
luckily in every collection, I 
didn't have to wear a body. 

714
00:42:55,360 --> 00:42:59,160
And she, they, they just did 
quite I know she he always did 

715
00:42:59,160 --> 00:43:02,320
sort of a little boxy sweater. 
So he used to wear a little boxy

716
00:43:02,320 --> 00:43:07,120
sweater and these Elia leggings 
and, and wore them with doctor 

717
00:43:07,120 --> 00:43:11,320
Martins and, and and white socks
and the customers loved it. 

718
00:43:11,320 --> 00:43:15,000
And I think she, she, she 
really, she had her finger right

719
00:43:15,000 --> 00:43:19,080
on the button because she 
realised that, that because Elia

720
00:43:19,080 --> 00:43:22,800
was such a new thing and it was 
so body conscious, she, she very

721
00:43:22,800 --> 00:43:26,240
much felt that a lot of 
customers would trust the advice

722
00:43:26,240 --> 00:43:29,720
of of a boy because there would 
be no element of sort of 

723
00:43:29,720 --> 00:43:33,480
jealousy there. 
She felt so, so I think I used 

724
00:43:33,480 --> 00:43:36,840
to be quite successful at 
selling a liar and it, and it 

725
00:43:36,840 --> 00:43:39,960
wasn't so easy, you know, 
because it would, it was so it 

726
00:43:39,960 --> 00:43:41,560
was so tight and body conscious.
It was. 

727
00:43:41,760 --> 00:43:44,720
It was totally new. 
Yeah, and very expensive. 

728
00:43:45,000 --> 00:43:47,800
It was very, very, very 
expensive, but of course, and 

729
00:43:48,160 --> 00:43:52,640
you know, which didn't bother 
many Browns customers. 

730
00:43:52,640 --> 00:43:56,360
I mean, again, it was a big eye 
opener to me to see these 

731
00:43:56,360 --> 00:43:58,600
products bought as commercial 
products. 

732
00:43:59,560 --> 00:44:03,760
Now we've talked about your, how
your style evolved, but if I was

733
00:44:03,760 --> 00:44:08,920
to ask you, if you were could 
only dress in two brands, 1 High

734
00:44:08,920 --> 00:44:14,520
Street and one designer or 
Taylor, which two would those 

735
00:44:14,520 --> 00:44:16,400
be? 
Well, Taylor has to be Timothy 

736
00:44:16,400 --> 00:44:20,240
Everest and, and the, the, the 
High Street brand would have to 

737
00:44:20,240 --> 00:44:23,080
be Uniqlo. 
And that's the only, that's the 

738
00:44:23,080 --> 00:44:27,040
only High Street brand that I do
actually wear mostly went for, 

739
00:44:27,240 --> 00:44:32,360
you know, downtime when I'm, 
I'm, I'm very fortunate in 

740
00:44:32,360 --> 00:44:36,120
having a cottage cottage, a 
villa in Tuscany now. 

741
00:44:36,560 --> 00:44:39,720
So when I'm there, I wear Uniqlo
and when I'm here in, in, in 

742
00:44:39,720 --> 00:44:45,080
Suffolk doing my slept in a 
hedge look, that's mostly stuff 

743
00:44:45,080 --> 00:44:48,480
from Uniqlo too. 
I think that it's it's well 

744
00:44:48,480 --> 00:44:52,600
designed and it's good value. 
It's good quality and it's kind 

745
00:44:52,600 --> 00:44:54,880
of quite anonymous. 
You can't tell where it comes 

746
00:44:54,880 --> 00:44:56,920
from. 
I don't like to wear things that

747
00:44:56,920 --> 00:45:00,320
look obvious or with any kind of
obvious design detail on them at

748
00:45:00,320 --> 00:45:02,640
all. 
I don't like anything that you 

749
00:45:02,640 --> 00:45:05,560
could you could tell without 
looking at the label where it 

750
00:45:05,560 --> 00:45:07,560
comes from. 
Yeah, yeah. 

751
00:45:08,600 --> 00:45:12,480
Do you have a style icon for you
personally? 

752
00:45:12,480 --> 00:45:15,640
Not for the Max Mara brand, but 
for you personally. 

753
00:45:15,680 --> 00:45:17,160
Well, I have to say my mum 
again. 

754
00:45:17,680 --> 00:45:22,600
I, I keep referring back to her,
but you know, because I mean, 

755
00:45:22,600 --> 00:45:25,920
she is the, the, the, the, the 
person at the back of my mind 

756
00:45:25,920 --> 00:45:29,520
when I think about fashion. 
Because she's got strong views 

757
00:45:29,520 --> 00:45:35,920
on how you should dress or how 
does how does her influence? 

758
00:45:36,360 --> 00:45:38,720
Well, she did have strong views 
on how I should dress when I was

759
00:45:38,720 --> 00:45:41,840
wearing her old curtains. 
And she, she, she would have 

760
00:45:41,840 --> 00:45:43,640
said anything but what he's 
wearing now. 

761
00:45:44,120 --> 00:45:47,800
And, and luckily she, she proves
of the way that I, I, I dress 

762
00:45:47,800 --> 00:45:53,600
now, but I, I, I can't, I can't 
think of fashion in terms of you

763
00:45:53,600 --> 00:45:56,760
say, you know, my own personal 
style icon, but I can't 

764
00:45:57,040 --> 00:46:00,800
differentiate between my style 
and Max Mara style. 

765
00:46:00,800 --> 00:46:04,040
I mean, after all these years, 
the two have conflated so far. 

766
00:46:04,040 --> 00:46:06,840
So it becomes impossible for me 
to, to do that. 

767
00:46:07,160 --> 00:46:10,840
So I'd say that she was the, 
the, the, the biggest influence 

768
00:46:10,840 --> 00:46:14,360
in terms of always being as 
smart as you can possibly be 

769
00:46:14,680 --> 00:46:17,320
when, when she was a teacher. 
I mean, everyone knows that 

770
00:46:17,600 --> 00:46:21,360
teachers her a reputation for 
being so shabby sometimes. 

771
00:46:21,360 --> 00:46:23,800
And she would always, although 
she was making her own clothes, 

772
00:46:24,120 --> 00:46:28,280
she'd always wear these these 
really smart pencil skirts and 

773
00:46:28,440 --> 00:46:32,200
she'd always wear heels, always 
heels and smart blouses and or 

774
00:46:32,200 --> 00:46:35,080
dresses that she'd made herself 
that were tightly belted. 

775
00:46:35,080 --> 00:46:38,880
And she always looked really 
well turned out and smart. 

776
00:46:39,400 --> 00:46:40,920
And that's been a huge 
influence. 

777
00:46:40,960 --> 00:46:43,720
But on top of that, there are 
all these other women I've met 

778
00:46:43,760 --> 00:46:48,400
over the years who in some way 
or another or some aspect of 

779
00:46:48,720 --> 00:46:55,160
have formed this kind of 
conglomerate image of, of, of of

780
00:46:55,200 --> 00:47:00,520
a Max Mara woman composed of all
these different composite parts.

781
00:47:01,000 --> 00:47:04,560
And they're all there in the 
back of my mind of some kind of 

782
00:47:04,560 --> 00:47:08,320
schizophrenic conversation going
on in my mind when I'm 

783
00:47:08,320 --> 00:47:11,120
designing. 
But so if I were to ask you to 

784
00:47:11,120 --> 00:47:14,800
describe your style DNA in three
words, which three would you 

785
00:47:14,800 --> 00:47:21,080
choose? 
Tailored Anglo Italian if I can 

786
00:47:21,080 --> 00:47:23,680
use an extra word. 
Hopefully elegant. 

787
00:47:23,920 --> 00:47:27,840
I try, I try, I try for elegant.
We'll sneak the Anglo Italian. 

788
00:47:27,840 --> 00:47:32,840
Even when I was a punk worker 
yes, tailored Anglo, Anglo, 

789
00:47:32,840 --> 00:47:37,200
Italian, elegant love that I you
know, even when I was a punk, I 

790
00:47:37,200 --> 00:47:38,840
was I tried to be an elegant 
punk. 

791
00:47:38,840 --> 00:47:43,440
I hated I hated ugliness. 
So when I would see some some 

792
00:47:43,440 --> 00:47:47,240
goth funks on the King's Road 
and here we are in Chelsea, but 

793
00:47:48,360 --> 00:47:52,800
I reminded of those those Goths 
in the King's Road and I hated 

794
00:47:52,800 --> 00:47:54,440
the ugliness of some of their 
style. 

795
00:47:54,440 --> 00:47:57,240
I always wanted to a lightness 
and an elegance. 

796
00:47:57,880 --> 00:48:02,600
But so I would have thought that
when New Romantics came in, that

797
00:48:02,600 --> 00:48:06,400
that did have more lightness to 
it, didn't it? 

798
00:48:06,520 --> 00:48:09,480
It could have more lightness 
apart from the tons of makeup 

799
00:48:09,480 --> 00:48:13,440
that we wore and the hair, the 
tons of lacquer and hair. 

800
00:48:13,800 --> 00:48:16,200
You know, when people when 
people used to say to me, you 

801
00:48:16,200 --> 00:48:18,160
know, you look so much better 
without makeup. 

802
00:48:18,440 --> 00:48:20,560
I say the same thing to young 
people now. 

803
00:48:21,080 --> 00:48:24,440
And you know, at the time you 
can't see it, but you know, you 

804
00:48:24,480 --> 00:48:27,400
know, I probably did. 
But you know, the makeup and the

805
00:48:27,400 --> 00:48:32,200
hair are all part of it. 
And and funnily enough, the the 

806
00:48:32,200 --> 00:48:36,120
inspiration for the last 
collection, Max Mara collection 

807
00:48:36,120 --> 00:48:39,520
sort of springs from the from 
revisiting that whole new 

808
00:48:39,520 --> 00:48:43,040
romantic period because it was 
all inspired by the 18th 

809
00:48:43,040 --> 00:48:47,800
century. 
And this this year I went back 

810
00:48:47,800 --> 00:48:52,840
to the Rococo after many years 
and revisited some of the the 

811
00:48:52,840 --> 00:48:55,920
looks that were the the first 
outfit that I ever made. 

812
00:48:55,920 --> 00:48:59,720
For example, was one of the the 
the key looks on my mood board 

813
00:48:59,720 --> 00:49:01,680
this year for the latest 
collection. 

814
00:49:01,680 --> 00:49:05,080
God, how lovely do you carry a 
handbag? 

815
00:49:05,400 --> 00:49:07,160
Yes, I do. 
What is it? 

816
00:49:07,160 --> 00:49:13,000
It's a Whitney bag. 
Of course it's a Whitney bag. 

817
00:49:13,240 --> 00:49:18,800
Max Mara's Whitney bag is, is, 
you know, I've got various sizes

818
00:49:18,800 --> 00:49:21,920
and shapes at the moment. 
I've got a Whitney tote, which 

819
00:49:21,920 --> 00:49:24,360
is great. 
And it, it's a very 

820
00:49:24,360 --> 00:49:27,240
architectural bag. 
It was designed in, in 

821
00:49:27,800 --> 00:49:30,520
collaboration with Renzo Piano 
Building Workshop. 

822
00:49:30,520 --> 00:49:35,000
Oh, lovely. 
When we when we when we 

823
00:49:35,000 --> 00:49:39,000
sponsored the reopening of the 
Whitney downtown in New York for

824
00:49:39,000 --> 00:49:43,400
the relocation down to the 
Meatpacking District in 2016, we

825
00:49:43,400 --> 00:49:48,760
commemorated that with a 
collaboration with Renzo Piano 

826
00:49:49,200 --> 00:49:51,960
and that spawned the whole 
generation of bags. 

827
00:49:51,960 --> 00:49:55,120
And there are various shapes and
sizes, but at the moment I've 

828
00:49:55,120 --> 00:50:02,680
got a brown Whitney bag that 
people very often stopped me and

829
00:50:02,680 --> 00:50:05,000
asked where I got it from. 
I'm not, I'm not surprised. 

830
00:50:05,000 --> 00:50:10,400
It's so striking. 
Obviously we're in this era of 

831
00:50:10,680 --> 00:50:17,320
it bags being telephone numbers,
sort of enough to buy a small 

832
00:50:17,320 --> 00:50:20,400
car. 
What's your view on that? 

833
00:50:22,840 --> 00:50:25,680
I don't really know if I should 
have a view or if I do have a 

834
00:50:25,680 --> 00:50:27,680
view. 
I mean, if people can afford it 

835
00:50:27,680 --> 00:50:31,720
and people want to spend their 
money that way, then I think 

836
00:50:31,720 --> 00:50:36,880
that anything that people buy 
should have alive, it should 

837
00:50:36,880 --> 00:50:39,920
work for them. 
You know, I hate to see money 

838
00:50:40,000 --> 00:50:45,960
wasted, but if if a material 
costs that much and the and the 

839
00:50:45,960 --> 00:50:51,480
manufacturer is that great, then
then I don't I, I, I don't 

840
00:50:51,480 --> 00:50:53,560
resent anyone for for wearing 
it. 

841
00:50:56,880 --> 00:51:03,440
Max Mara clothes are renowned 
for not not being overpriced. 

842
00:51:04,600 --> 00:51:07,720
Absolutely no. 
And I, I wasn't referring to Max

843
00:51:07,720 --> 00:51:12,000
Mara, but the, you know, there 
are some of the mega brands out 

844
00:51:12,000 --> 00:51:17,080
there that have massive margin 
in what they're doing from cost 

845
00:51:17,080 --> 00:51:21,800
price to selling price. 
Well, in terms of that massive 

846
00:51:21,800 --> 00:51:26,360
margins, I think every product 
has to, to merit what, what goes

847
00:51:26,360 --> 00:51:29,680
into it. 
I, I don't believe in obscenely 

848
00:51:29,680 --> 00:51:34,000
inflated prices. 
And one of the, the, the things 

849
00:51:34,000 --> 00:51:37,840
about Max by which I've, I 
completely concur with is the, a

850
00:51:37,840 --> 00:51:42,040
slightly democratic aspect of 
the product, which is that, you 

851
00:51:42,040 --> 00:51:46,400
know, it's within reach. 
Having said that, I'm conscious 

852
00:51:46,400 --> 00:51:49,400
that I've once nearly caused a 
Twitter storm on the Today 

853
00:51:49,400 --> 00:51:53,360
programme because I said that, 
you know, a teddy bear coat was 

854
00:51:53,600 --> 00:51:57,720
reasonably priced at €2000, 
which, which Today listeners 

855
00:51:57,720 --> 00:52:01,760
found totally outrageous because
they, they presumably they're 

856
00:52:01,760 --> 00:52:05,360
very frugal and they would think
that perhaps, you know, 100 lbs 

857
00:52:05,360 --> 00:52:07,280
would be, would be quite 
sufficient. 

858
00:52:07,280 --> 00:52:11,200
But, you know, the Max Bara 
philosophy has always been that 

859
00:52:11,200 --> 00:52:15,120
it's within reach from the days 
of the the founder, Akili 

860
00:52:15,120 --> 00:52:17,160
Maramotti. 
That was his idea. 

861
00:52:17,160 --> 00:52:21,120
You know, it wasn't designed 
for, in his words, princesses 

862
00:52:21,120 --> 00:52:24,600
and countesses. 
It was designed for what at the 

863
00:52:24,600 --> 00:52:29,720
time were the, in his words, 
the, the wives of the local 

864
00:52:29,720 --> 00:52:34,040
doctor or the local lawyer. 
And that was back in the 50s. 

865
00:52:34,200 --> 00:52:37,800
And he realised those were women
were going to be the ones that 

866
00:52:37,800 --> 00:52:41,440
within 10 years they would, they
would be a lawyer or a doctor 

867
00:52:41,440 --> 00:52:46,120
themselves or eventually a judge
or the, the, the, the CEO of the

868
00:52:46,120 --> 00:52:50,960
local health authority. 
So, you know, he, he, he foresaw

869
00:52:50,960 --> 00:52:54,640
the the emergence of this class 
of women as being a major 

870
00:52:54,920 --> 00:52:58,640
economic force, but always felt 
that the clothes should be 

871
00:52:59,200 --> 00:53:02,960
within reach. 
Expensive, not cheap, but within

872
00:53:02,960 --> 00:53:04,480
reach. 
And they last for so. 

873
00:53:05,160 --> 00:53:06,720
Long too. 
And they last for so long. 

874
00:53:06,720 --> 00:53:10,360
I mean you rarely find and Max 
bar a coat in a charity store 

875
00:53:10,720 --> 00:53:13,040
because they don't wear out. 
I I love that. 

876
00:53:13,480 --> 00:53:18,360
I really love that. 
Let's spin on to grooming. 

877
00:53:19,320 --> 00:53:26,400
Is that important to you? 
Haircuts, facials, any of that. 

878
00:53:28,840 --> 00:53:35,640
Yes, I I for a long time I, I 
used to come back to London to 

879
00:53:35,640 --> 00:53:39,000
get my hair cut and sometimes 
I'd come back only to get my 

880
00:53:39,000 --> 00:53:41,920
hair cut. 
With a specific Barber. 

881
00:53:41,960 --> 00:53:46,320
Yes, in Islington San O'Hare in 
Islington Taco at San O'Hare 

882
00:53:46,320 --> 00:53:49,560
would cut my hair and and now 
I've had to concede that I can't

883
00:53:49,560 --> 00:53:51,400
come back every time my hair 
needs cutting. 

884
00:53:52,440 --> 00:53:55,840
But I have a a a a hairdresser 
in in Reggio Amelia. 

885
00:53:56,320 --> 00:53:59,360
But yes, grooming is terribly 
important. 

886
00:54:00,600 --> 00:54:02,640
But having said that, am I 
standing against? 

887
00:54:02,640 --> 00:54:05,160
Am I sitting against the light? 
Have I got hairs coming on my 

888
00:54:05,200 --> 00:54:06,960
ears or something? 
Not, not at all. 

889
00:54:06,960 --> 00:54:09,400
It's just it's a question I 
always ask and I'm always 

890
00:54:09,400 --> 00:54:14,000
fascinated by the answer. 
I mean tweakments, buttocks, 

891
00:54:14,000 --> 00:54:17,680
fillers, any of that. 
I, I, I, I've never done any of 

892
00:54:17,680 --> 00:54:21,760
those things, but I, I do 
believe in a, you know, daily, a

893
00:54:21,760 --> 00:54:26,520
daily ritual as much as you can.
I mean the the, the, the the 

894
00:54:26,520 --> 00:54:32,200
problem any any man over 45 or 
even younger will tell you is 

895
00:54:32,560 --> 00:54:36,960
men start to sprout hair from 
all over the place and that 

896
00:54:36,960 --> 00:54:38,840
becomes a a constant battle. 
Let. 

897
00:54:38,920 --> 00:54:44,520
Me tell you women do too. 
But if you wear glasses, it's so

898
00:54:44,520 --> 00:54:47,520
hard to see them as well. 
Magnifying mirror. 

899
00:54:47,520 --> 00:54:49,560
Magnifying. 
I've got one of those but it's 

900
00:54:49,560 --> 00:54:53,240
always smudged so I can never 
actually see in the the the 

901
00:54:53,240 --> 00:54:54,200
image clearly. 
Oh, I. 

902
00:54:55,520 --> 00:55:01,440
Mean you talk about travel a lot
because you're always on a 

903
00:55:01,440 --> 00:55:06,040
plane. 
Do you have a particular look 

904
00:55:06,040 --> 00:55:09,120
that you revert to to for 
travel? 

905
00:55:09,120 --> 00:55:16,240
Or is do you just seamlessly go 
from Italy to London to Shanghai

906
00:55:17,200 --> 00:55:18,880
in your Brooks Brothers in? 
Your. 

907
00:55:19,160 --> 00:55:23,440
Timothy. 
Evost most of my travelling is 

908
00:55:23,440 --> 00:55:26,680
is to places that I already have
a, a base. 

909
00:55:26,920 --> 00:55:34,880
So, so if it's here in London or
Suffolk or in Spain, Italy, I 

910
00:55:34,880 --> 00:55:37,280
have places there. 
So I've got a wardrobe there. 

911
00:55:37,920 --> 00:55:40,680
But then everything ends up in 
the wrong place because you have

912
00:55:40,680 --> 00:55:43,200
to travel in clothes. 
The ideal thing would be if they

913
00:55:43,200 --> 00:55:46,960
gave you like a either if you 
could travel naked or if you 

914
00:55:46,960 --> 00:55:49,520
could just have this thing that 
you put on at the airport, which

915
00:55:49,520 --> 00:55:53,040
is like a sort of bin bag that 
just covers you up so that you 

916
00:55:53,040 --> 00:55:54,560
don't have to take anything with
you. 

917
00:55:54,560 --> 00:55:56,840
So everything stays in the 
correct place. 

918
00:55:56,960 --> 00:55:59,440
How do you remember what you've 
got? 

919
00:55:59,440 --> 00:56:01,960
Where or are you different 
personas? 

920
00:56:01,960 --> 00:56:06,000
In Spain to Italy to Suffolk to 
London. 

921
00:56:06,160 --> 00:56:09,360
Slightly different personas. 
That's slightly, but not not not

922
00:56:09,360 --> 00:56:11,720
not. 
I mean, it'd be unusual to wear 

923
00:56:12,440 --> 00:56:16,040
a tailored suit in in Suffolk or
in my, well, my Bay. 

924
00:56:16,040 --> 00:56:22,640
Maybe you could, but but they, 
they tend to overlap very much 

925
00:56:22,640 --> 00:56:24,000
so. 
And as I say, everything always 

926
00:56:24,000 --> 00:56:25,400
ends up in the wrong place 
anyway. 

927
00:56:25,840 --> 00:56:28,880
What luggage do you use? 
I I bought a set of Rimowa 

928
00:56:28,880 --> 00:56:32,360
luggage last year. 
I'm very happy with it. 

929
00:56:33,120 --> 00:56:35,480
Colour. 
Silver, the classic one. 

930
00:56:35,480 --> 00:56:39,680
Absolute classic. 
Is there anything that you feel 

931
00:56:39,680 --> 00:56:42,160
you've got an excessive amount 
of in your wardrobe? 

932
00:56:42,520 --> 00:56:46,920
Clothes. 
No. 

933
00:56:46,960 --> 00:56:51,960
So on that note, are you are you
good at doing a wardrobe edit? 

934
00:56:52,000 --> 00:56:55,240
No, I'm not, I'm not. 
I'm very, I'm rubbish at it. 

935
00:56:55,520 --> 00:56:59,080
I can't edit and one of the the 
I've been through that phase now

936
00:56:59,080 --> 00:57:01,520
where you try to travel light 
and edit. 

937
00:57:02,080 --> 00:57:05,720
Now I travel heavy and don't 
edit, so I take everything with 

938
00:57:05,720 --> 00:57:09,400
me that I might possibly need. 
And are you a planner or are you

939
00:57:09,440 --> 00:57:14,880
a mood dresser? 
I, well, it, it doesn't make 

940
00:57:14,880 --> 00:57:17,920
much difference because wherever
I happen to be, if I'm getting 

941
00:57:17,920 --> 00:57:19,280
up in the morning, I'm going to 
work there. 

942
00:57:19,280 --> 00:57:21,880
There are, there's the 60 
jackets and suits. 

943
00:57:21,880 --> 00:57:24,440
I just choose one of them. 
Or if I'm in Suffolk, there they

944
00:57:24,440 --> 00:57:27,320
are all the sweaters with all 
the elbows worn out. 

945
00:57:27,560 --> 00:57:31,040
Or if I'm in Marbella, it's all 
the, the beach wear and the 

946
00:57:31,040 --> 00:57:34,080
stripy shirts. 
So there isn't much, there isn't

947
00:57:34,080 --> 00:57:37,800
much leeway within that for, 
for, for mood dressing. 

948
00:57:38,360 --> 00:57:40,520
That's my uniform for wherever I
happen to be. 

949
00:57:40,520 --> 00:57:43,880
Yeah, yeah. 
Let's talk about sustainable 

950
00:57:43,880 --> 00:57:46,560
fashion. 
What's your approach to that? 

951
00:57:46,920 --> 00:57:50,800
Well, I think that one thing 
that people underestimate is how

952
00:57:50,800 --> 00:57:54,520
the fashion industry as a whole 
is organising itself. 

953
00:57:54,520 --> 00:57:56,280
And that's really is the way 
forward. 

954
00:57:56,520 --> 00:58:01,160
And we, we, we hear about 
initiatives from individual 

955
00:58:01,160 --> 00:58:06,440
brands who tend to, to, to boast
about the, whatever they're 

956
00:58:06,440 --> 00:58:09,920
doing, whether it's happens to 
be nylon made from recycled 

957
00:58:09,920 --> 00:58:13,600
bottles or whatever it is. 
And, or, or in our case, it's, 

958
00:58:14,560 --> 00:58:17,800
it's a wadding for pufferjack. 
It's made out of recycled 

959
00:58:17,800 --> 00:58:22,120
cashmere or, or camel. 
Those are individual initiatives

960
00:58:22,120 --> 00:58:26,240
that won't solve anything on a 
industry wide basis or in the 

961
00:58:26,240 --> 00:58:28,880
long term. 
But what people aren't aware of 

962
00:58:28,880 --> 00:58:31,960
is that, you know, the industry 
is organising itself and there 

963
00:58:31,960 --> 00:58:35,800
are now norms which are becoming
more and more stringent with 

964
00:58:35,800 --> 00:58:39,560
eventually, you know, huge fines
for, for products which aren't 

965
00:58:39,560 --> 00:58:42,120
sustainable or can't be traced 
in some way. 

966
00:58:42,520 --> 00:58:47,800
And that is the future. 
I really believe in, in, in 

967
00:58:48,320 --> 00:58:54,600
industry based initiatives, but 
in terms of design and our 

968
00:58:54,600 --> 00:58:58,440
responsibilities now, I think 
it's important that we're 

969
00:58:58,440 --> 00:59:02,880
designing products which you 
have a life, whether whether 

970
00:59:02,880 --> 00:59:05,680
they're, you know, I was talking
about Uniqlo. 

971
00:59:07,840 --> 00:59:09,520
Obviously I've got no interest 
in Uniqlo. 

972
00:59:09,520 --> 00:59:14,600
But you know, if if I had to 
come play High Street brands, 

973
00:59:14,920 --> 00:59:17,880
then I would choose the ones 
that you know, that don't over 

974
00:59:17,880 --> 00:59:23,800
design and the clothes can be 
used for years and years rather 

975
00:59:23,960 --> 00:59:28,040
than a brand which which makes 
gums which get thrown away after

976
00:59:28,080 --> 00:59:31,760
one wear or two wears or maybe 
you don't even wear them at all.

977
00:59:32,360 --> 00:59:36,400
They'll end up on landfill. 
And I think that is ethically 

978
00:59:36,520 --> 00:59:40,720
questionable. 
But how does the industry 

979
00:59:41,240 --> 00:59:44,600
control that? 
Because you know, I think the 

980
00:59:44,680 --> 00:59:49,840
Max Mara's of this world, yes, 
beautiful product made to last a

981
00:59:49,840 --> 00:59:54,240
lifetime, all of that. 
But then we've got these 

982
00:59:54,680 --> 01:00:00,360
probably more fast fashion that 
they just want to pump out more 

983
01:00:00,360 --> 01:00:03,400
and more and more. 
Well, eventually they too will 

984
01:00:03,400 --> 01:00:07,120
have to sign up to these, to 
these initiatives, which which 

985
01:00:08,080 --> 01:00:11,120
mean that they will have to be 
able to certify where the fabric

986
01:00:11,120 --> 01:00:15,800
comes from, how it was dyed, 
what dyes we used, if it, if 

987
01:00:15,800 --> 01:00:20,360
there's any kind of cultivation 
of any fibres, you know, what 

988
01:00:20,360 --> 01:00:23,280
the annual of the plant was fed 
on and where that comes from, 

989
01:00:23,520 --> 01:00:27,760
how it was transported. 
Eventually and and and hopefully

990
01:00:27,760 --> 01:00:30,920
sooner rather than later, this 
thing will spread across the the

991
01:00:30,920 --> 01:00:36,600
whole industry. 
But coming back to you, what do 

992
01:00:36,600 --> 01:00:38,680
you do with your clothes when 
you've had enough of them? 

993
01:00:39,840 --> 01:00:43,800
I never I never have enough of 
them, but it but if they become 

994
01:00:43,800 --> 01:00:48,240
so worn out to the point where I
I can't even, you know, bear to 

995
01:00:48,240 --> 01:00:53,480
look at them anymore, or you you
were saying earlier, what do you

996
01:00:53,480 --> 01:00:54,880
have too many of in your 
wardrobe? 

997
01:00:55,120 --> 01:00:58,040
And I said clothes. 
But the second thing is moths I.

998
01:00:58,440 --> 01:01:01,440
Have too many moths in my 
wardrobe so things do get moth 

999
01:01:01,440 --> 01:01:03,400
eaten sometimes. 
So. 

1000
01:01:04,000 --> 01:01:07,160
That they get taken to the 
cleaners and then anything which

1001
01:01:07,200 --> 01:01:10,880
I can't wear anymore goes to the
Max Mora archive, of course. 

1002
01:01:11,400 --> 01:01:14,920
So there's a little section of 
the archive which is my old 

1003
01:01:14,920 --> 01:01:17,160
clothes and not, not just recent
ones too. 

1004
01:01:17,160 --> 01:01:21,360
Have my old leather biker 
jackets in there and a few other

1005
01:01:21,600 --> 01:01:25,280
things from the 80s. 
Not the new Romantic Curtain 

1006
01:01:25,480 --> 01:01:30,560
period, but from shortly after 
that they've all fit. 

1007
01:01:30,600 --> 01:01:33,760
Ended up in the Maximo Archive. 
God, what a dreamy place to 

1008
01:01:33,760 --> 01:01:36,240
visit. 
I mean, do you have a piece in 

1009
01:01:36,240 --> 01:01:38,840
your wardrobe that means the 
most to you? 

1010
01:01:40,120 --> 01:01:45,760
On a personal level, no. 
I, I, I, I I don't. 

1011
01:01:46,800 --> 01:01:50,840
But again, well, it's in my 
niece's wardrobe now. 

1012
01:01:51,360 --> 01:01:54,880
The first coat I ever designed 
for Max Mara, it's in her 

1013
01:01:54,880 --> 01:01:58,400
wardrobe via again my mum. 
I gave it to her with the 

1014
01:01:58,400 --> 01:02:02,200
prototype to her and then my 
sister stole it from her and 

1015
01:02:02,200 --> 01:02:05,880
then my niece stole it from her.
So it's in the third generation 

1016
01:02:05,880 --> 01:02:08,560
now. 
So it's not in my wardrobe, it's

1017
01:02:08,560 --> 01:02:10,520
in, it's in hers. 
Can you describe it? 

1018
01:02:10,760 --> 01:02:14,800
To me it's it's a collarless 
camel coat, so it wraps with a 

1019
01:02:14,800 --> 01:02:20,280
belt with a slightly dropped 
sleeve and it's in wool cashmere

1020
01:02:20,600 --> 01:02:22,840
with patch pockets. 
It's very, very simple. 

1021
01:02:23,280 --> 01:02:30,440
But it was a new proportion for 
the time and it stood the test 

1022
01:02:30,440 --> 01:02:31,760
of time. 
It's a bit shabby now. 

1023
01:02:31,760 --> 01:02:35,320
I mean the moths have been at 
it, but it but it's still 

1024
01:02:35,320 --> 01:02:39,600
presentable. 
I mean, I really believe in 

1025
01:02:39,600 --> 01:02:41,920
clothes and anything really 
designed. 

1026
01:02:41,920 --> 01:02:45,920
Generally I think things have to
be capable of being worn. 

1027
01:02:45,920 --> 01:02:49,240
And I always say to whenever 
working with an architect on a 

1028
01:02:49,240 --> 01:02:52,360
new project for a house or 
anything, I always say, you 

1029
01:02:52,360 --> 01:02:58,480
know, I would like. 
This table or this room to to be

1030
01:02:58,480 --> 01:03:02,600
able to be to wear gracefully, 
and the same thing applies to 

1031
01:03:02,600 --> 01:03:04,440
clothes. 
Same thing applies to people. 

1032
01:03:04,560 --> 01:03:09,080
We should all we should all grow
old gracefully and and the the 

1033
01:03:09,240 --> 01:03:13,680
the signs of wear and tear 
should be worn like a a badge of

1034
01:03:13,680 --> 01:03:17,000
honour. 
Yes, right. 

1035
01:03:17,200 --> 01:03:19,320
Let's spin on to some quick fire
questions. 

1036
01:03:20,000 --> 01:03:23,560
What fashion advice would you 
give your 20 year old self? 

1037
01:03:24,120 --> 01:03:31,040
Leave off the curtains. 
What fashion or trend or era 

1038
01:03:31,280 --> 01:03:33,440
would you most like to see make 
a comeback? 

1039
01:03:34,400 --> 01:03:38,040
The 80s, because everything was 
totally original. 

1040
01:03:38,040 --> 01:03:43,360
I mean, now we recycle, we 
recycle ideas. 

1041
01:03:43,360 --> 01:03:46,640
Everyone owns everything, so the
idea of originality is 

1042
01:03:46,640 --> 01:03:49,480
different. 
So it was then in the 1980s, 

1043
01:03:49,480 --> 01:03:54,040
everything that you saw in terms
of fashion, culture, music, art 

1044
01:03:54,200 --> 01:03:57,360
was totally new. 
And there was a there was a an 

1045
01:03:57,360 --> 01:04:00,280
enormous excitement and energy 
around. 

1046
01:04:01,120 --> 01:04:03,720
It's different today, but I 
would love to go back to that. 

1047
01:04:04,440 --> 01:04:08,240
Fashion or beauty trend that you
would consign to Room 101. 

1048
01:04:10,840 --> 01:04:14,560
Botox. 
Your last impulse buy? 

1049
01:04:16,360 --> 01:04:19,920
Whitney bag, but it was free 
anyway so I don't know if that 

1050
01:04:19,920 --> 01:04:24,160
counts. 
That doesn't count views on 

1051
01:04:24,160 --> 01:04:27,160
tattoos. 
I love one of the people, but 

1052
01:04:27,160 --> 01:04:30,480
not too many. 
I think they have to be used in 

1053
01:04:30,480 --> 01:04:32,480
moderation. 
I don't have any. 

1054
01:04:34,480 --> 01:04:37,840
It's too late for me, I think. 
The grooming or well-being 

1055
01:04:37,840 --> 01:04:41,240
treatment you couldn't give up. 
Well, I was talking about my 

1056
01:04:41,240 --> 01:04:45,800
hairdresser in Islington Sano 
and I can't go to him regularly,

1057
01:04:45,800 --> 01:04:49,040
but occasionally when I'm back 
in London I just have to go and 

1058
01:04:49,040 --> 01:04:50,360
see him. 
Hop in there. 

1059
01:04:50,360 --> 01:04:55,200
Yes, high end or High Street. 
High end without question. 

1060
01:04:55,680 --> 01:05:02,240
Savile Row or Levi's both double
breasted or single breasted. 

1061
01:05:02,560 --> 01:05:06,000
Double breasted Crocs, cute or 
puke? 

1062
01:05:06,480 --> 01:05:09,640
Fuch. 
Sports Lux or Rock'n'roll? 

1063
01:05:10,360 --> 01:05:13,000
Rock'n'roll. 
Cashmere or cotton? 

1064
01:05:13,440 --> 01:05:18,200
Well. 
Cargoes or chinos? 

1065
01:05:18,720 --> 01:05:20,960
Chinos for me, cargoes for the 
runway. 

1066
01:05:21,400 --> 01:05:24,160
Trend or style? 
Style. 

1067
01:05:24,360 --> 01:05:28,520
Colour or monochrome? 
Monochrome Camel. 

1068
01:05:28,800 --> 01:05:30,320
Camel. 
I live in Camel Andy, don't 

1069
01:05:30,320 --> 01:05:32,840
forget that. 
Print or plain. 

1070
01:05:33,640 --> 01:05:35,960
Plain. 
Hoarder or editor? 

1071
01:05:38,240 --> 01:05:41,080
Hoarder because I never throw 
anything away. 

1072
01:05:41,560 --> 01:05:45,560
Charity shop or resale? 
Charity shop. 

1073
01:05:46,160 --> 01:05:47,880
Budgie smugglers or board 
shorts? 

1074
01:05:50,880 --> 01:05:52,560
I think you got the wrong person
here. 

1075
01:05:52,800 --> 01:05:54,600
I mean, most definitely board 
shorts. 

1076
01:05:54,720 --> 01:05:58,480
And finally, traditional last 
question at the end of the day, 

1077
01:05:58,480 --> 01:06:00,400
what do you or don't you wear in
bed? 

1078
01:06:00,760 --> 01:06:06,600
Don't at all. 
Fantastic, Ian, what a pleasure 

1079
01:06:06,600 --> 01:06:08,120
to have this conversation with 
you. 

1080
01:06:08,120 --> 01:06:13,560
Thank you for slipping over to 
Chelsea and spending this time 

1081
01:06:13,560 --> 01:06:15,120
with me. 
It's been really, really 

1082
01:06:15,120 --> 01:06:16,640
wonderful. 
It's a pleasure. 

1083
01:06:16,640 --> 01:06:18,720
It's been really fun and I've 
really enjoyed it. 

1084
01:06:18,720 --> 01:06:20,800
Thank you very much, Amanda. 
Thank you.

