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Welcome to this Watch LIVE. 
Hi, I'm Lydia Winters. 

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And I'm Boo Boo. 
And as I said, we're going deep 

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on perpetual calendars and 
annual calendars. 

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You. 
Did say that. 

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I did be and. 
Now you're delivering. 

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I am. 
I'm not delivering. 

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Take that, everyone delivering 
sometimes. 

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I was busy all day and you 
prepared this whole episode. 

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And I'm very excited because I 
will say that perpetual 

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calendars are something that I 
find fascinating, but because 

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I've never had a specific one 
that I was interested in, I've 

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never actually gone to any depth
with them at all to understand 

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them. 
Well, this. 

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So now you're going to teach. 
Me well, but this is also why I 

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became interested. 
Secret diary of a watch girl on 

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Instagram Emily she was talking 
with Justin Hest, said that her 

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grail watch was an IWC 3755 Da 
Vinci Perpetual Calendar and 

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then someone that he knew 
reached out said there was one 

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in Amsterdam. 
They went down together for her 

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to buy it. 
This is her grail watch. 

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It is such a cool white ceramic 
and gold watch. 

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It has a crown controlled 
perpetual calendar which is 

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super cool. 
Is actually invented by Kurt 

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Kloss who worked at IWC. 
That sounds. 

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Super cool. 
It's Iwc's first movement 

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featuring a moon phase, year, 
month, date, day, hours, 

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minutes, seconds and a 
chronograph. 

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That's a lot. 
Which I was like, that's 

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actually really cool to have a 
perpetual calendar with a 

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chronograph. 
It's not big at all. 

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It's like a, it's a 39 
millimeter. 

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Like not a huge case, really. 
Yeah, very nice. 

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But this is what so Emily's 
Germany is what got me really 

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excited about basically 
perpetual calendars in general. 

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Annual Calendars. 
Annual. 

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Calendars. 
Because I've also just, I think 

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it's kind of that like it's the 
next frontier for me is like 

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more complications. 
I want a moon phase, you know, 

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it's like very. 
Yeah, yeah. 

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I owned an annual calendar once 
and I I did. 

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I liked the functionality but 
the watch was a little weird on 

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me. 
OK, it was an Omega Deville 

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annual calendar. 
I forget exactly the model. 

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This was 10 / 10. 
Years ago, I didn't even realize

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it was a annual calendar. 
Like, I didn't know that. 

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Yeah, that was an. 
But I guess it was before I 

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cared. 
I was like, that watch does 

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watch stuff. 
Yeah. 

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Yeah. 
And you didn't really like the 

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look of it on me. 
And it just, it didn't last 

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long. 
I it was, it was more of an 

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experiment. 
I I got that one and then I let 

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it go fairly quickly. 
OK, so perpetual calendar 

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complications dates back to the 
mid 1700s as a pocket watch. 

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So that's when it started. 
But then they were integrated 

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into wristwatches in 1925 by 
Patek Philippe. 

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And this was like a really big, 
like, adapting that from a 

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pocket watch to a wristwatch was
a very significant milestone in 

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horology because it really 
showcased the complexity and 

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precision of perpetual calendars
and a especially to all of a 

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sudden make them wearable in a 
size that can fit on your wrist.

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Yeah. 
And then today, even today, 

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perpetual calendars watches are 
still considered a pinnacle of 

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watchmaking. 
Yeah. 

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They're capable of automatically
adjusting for different month 

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lengths and leap years, which is
really wild. 

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They require adjustments only 
once every century. 

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That's pretty cool. 
That's really, really, really 

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cool. 
Yeah. 

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So for for that means at least 
anyone I've ever heard of, you 

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only have to adjust it once. 
Mm, hmm. 

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Ever. 
Yeah, probably not even that, 

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because you're probably not 
getting it as a baby. 

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It's just. 
I'm just saying. 

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Pure little baby. 
You're going to have to change 

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it multiple times. 
So, oh, wait, actually. 

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But it's not 100 years from the 
time you get it. 

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No, OK. 
I I I just wasn't thinking. 

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Anyway, that's how that works. 
It's. 

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So, yeah, obviously like 
advantages of this are they're 

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extremely precise, minimal 
manual adjustments, which is 

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very cool. 
And then the disadvantages are 

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like it's very expensive and 
it's extremely complex 

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mechanisms. 
Do not drop your perpetual 

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calendar. 
Probably not a cheap fix. 

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No, I would assume not. 
So then this part is what 

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surprised me because perpetual 
calendars and annual calendars. 

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I knew a bit of the like. 
The perpetual part is that it 

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keeps going. 
But an annual calendar? 

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If someone had asked me before I
researched this, which came 

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first, the chicken or the egg? 
The perpetual calendar or the 

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annual calendar? 
What one would you say? 

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Annual calendar. 
It's a simpler movement. 

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No, perpetual calendar was 
first. 

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I mean, I kind of figured that 
as you asked the question. 

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Well, yeah, 'cause I the. 
Only reason you'd ask this is if

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it's the surprising one, but I I
went along with your your your 

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your. 
Ruse. 

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OK, but it's surprising because 
annual calendar watches are not 

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only a more recent innovation, 
but the first one was introduced

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by Patek in 1996. 
What? 

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So from 1925 to 1996, they were 
like, there's only one way this 

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can happen, and it's where you 
can never change. 

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It so prior to that they had 
perpetual calendars and then 

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regular watches with a date and 
then but they it's like they 

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realize like wait a second. 
Yeah, well. 

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We can get most of what you get 
out of a perpetual calendar for 

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much less work, which means we 
can charge much less money. 

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It's designed as a simpler and 
more affordable alternative to 

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the perpetual calendars. 
But it's so interesting to me 

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that it it was so long in 
between because I was like, oh, 

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OK, surely annual surely, 
because. 

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It's more simple. 
You develop that first, but it 

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turns out no. 
Yes, and so with an annual 

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calendar they can distinguish 
between months with 30 and 31 

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days, but require manual 
adjustments once a year at the 

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end of good old February, the 
month that makes no sense. 

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Well, it makes sense in the 
great. 

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Yeah, OK. 
It makes sense somehow. 

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OK. 
And then after Patek Philippe 

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had success with this, because 
people were like, wait, what? 

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I can have all of the 
functionality, I just have to. 

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Change it. 
Once a year. 

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That's 100 times more. 
But yeah, but still, it's a lot 

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less than other watches. 
I'm changing all the time 'cause

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I'm wearing too many. 
Well, OK, but that's. 

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Yeah, that's not. 
Yeah, that's its own. 

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Problem own problem. 
I think a regular watch you 

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would change like 7 * a year 
right? 

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Because it's any month that's 
less than 31 days +2 you you 

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you'd have to reset it for the 
two times that the hour. 

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Changes, yeah. 
Depends on where you live. 

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Yeah. 
If you live in Phoenix, AZ then 

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you don't change for daylight 
savings. 

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OK, annual calendar watches, an 
advantage is that less frequent 

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adjustments more affordable than
perpetual calendars. 

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So I mean, it's, well, it's not 
less frequent adjustments 

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overall, but it's still less. 
Frequent adjustments than a 

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regular calendar. 
A regular watch with a date. 

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Exactly. 
And then the disadvantages are 

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that it still requires annual 
adjustments and it's less 

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complex, but that's also that's 
the price difference. 

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It's also like kind of 
interesting because with an 

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annual calendar, so for the 
2:00-ish years that I own that 

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annual calendar, it kind of made
like Leap Day. 

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Is that what it's called? 
It's called Leap Day, I think. 

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Yeah, right. 
Yeah, it made that more special.

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It's like Kermit Day on the Oris
because. 

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When I had that annual calendar,
that's the first time I bought a

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watch Winder because I'm like, 
well, this is a watch that 

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belongs on a Winder, so that it,
it, it'll just always know the 

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date, you know, other watches. 
I didn't bother with winders and

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I still don't. 
But if you have an annual or 

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perpetual calendar and they're 
automatic, then a Winder could 

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be really nice. 
Yeah, that's true. 

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So an annual calendar, it's 
ideal for someone who wants a 

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sophisticated watch, but still 
minimal maintenance. 

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And I think they're very nice. 
And then a perpetual calendar, 

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it's really that like watch 
enthusiasts and collector who 

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appreciate the intricate or 
logical complication because it 

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really is like super cool. 
I'm not really sure actually. 

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I like them both. 
I think that a lot of times 

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perpetual calendars in my mind 
have been more bulky. 

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But then when I saw this IWC Da 
Vinci, that secret diary of a 

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watch girl has, I was like, 
wait, that's not that big. 

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And some of the older like 
obviously the ones I want are 

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like a PS Yeah. 
Yeah, yeah. 

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You know. 
Just casually, but they're so 

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beautiful and I think it's 
really cool. 

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OK, well, I the The thing is, 
it's because, so from a 

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functional standpoint, there's 
not a huge difference for you, 

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right? 
Like I I'm just talking about. 

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Between the two between because 
I was like for me though as like

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my in my current. 
Watch between the two. 

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Functionally, they're not that 
difference for you, for for for 

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you. 
But if you're still interested 

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in the perpetual calendar, then 
what that does mean is what 

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you're saying is you're 
interested in some of the 

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technicalities of movements and 
what can be achieved. 

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Well, I mean, yeah, because if I
think about my current 

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collection, I have date. 
Yeah, I have. 

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AGMT No. 
No, not anymore. 

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I have a chronograph and I have 
a day date. 

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The Seiko 5 is the day date, but
to have the date, day month a 

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moon phase would be cool. 
Like that's a really useful 

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everyday watch. 
Like it's very cool to me 

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because sometimes I am like, 
what month is it, What day is 

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it, what year is it? 
So I've heard various things 

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about the durability of the 
average. 

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I don't know what the average 
for perpetual calendar is, but 

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like that, you know, obviously 
there are many more parts, yeah,

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which is many more failure 
points. 

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And so probably most perpetual 
calendars are not worn daily, 

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but probably the makers of them 
want them to be able to be worn.

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Daily. 
You know, like I, I, I assume 

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that would be a goal is that 
they could endure the regular 

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rigors of life. 
It may not be your adventure 

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watch, but like a daily wear it 
around town, go to the office 

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type of watch. 
That would be a cool daily watch

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to. 
Yeah, it would be calendar. 

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As your daily. 
It would be pretty cool, Yeah. 

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00:11:36,280 --> 00:11:37,960
Yeah, I mean. 
Depends on the watch, of course.

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I just think with either of 
them, they're really cool 

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because you see like a level of 
sophistication in the watch 

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making and also just a lot of 
craftsmanship because in order 

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to, you know, like it's a lot of
different things combined into 

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one. 
That's why I find the IWC Da 

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Vinci one that it's also a 
chronograph to be so cool 

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because you have all of these 
hands everywhere basically. 

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But it's also, when you look at 
it, you can see what everything 

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is. 
So the chronic, the sub, the 

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subdials actually have, you 
know, some of the hands are in 

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gold and then some are in blue, 
like a blue. 

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Black. 
Specifically for that one with 

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the chronograph. 
And so it's really cool that you

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can use one subdial and it's 
doing multiple things. 

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So you don't have listed here 
leap year, Is that not on the 

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move on on the face of the 
movement? 

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It's 'cause they're not on 
every. 

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Not. 
Every perpetual calendar I've 

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seen shows the leap year. 
But but many do. 

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I don't think they all have to. 
No, I wouldn't. 

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You kind of need to know like 
for when you said it, but you 

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don't need to see it. 
No. 

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If I buy a perpetual calendar, 
I'm having someone else said it 

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obviously, and then it can run 
for 100. 

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Years. 
Well, so then if you get a 

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00:13:02,240 --> 00:13:06,200
perpetual calendar, which now 
that this bug is in your. 

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00:13:06,200 --> 00:13:08,120
It is. 
No, it definitely feels. 

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00:13:08,120 --> 00:13:09,360
It feels. 
It feels. 

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00:13:09,360 --> 00:13:12,440
Like. 
It yeah, I do feel a bit like 

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I'm I'm I I definitely was doing
a deep dive of my friend a dose 

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of time to. 
Trade towards. 

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00:13:21,480 --> 00:13:24,680
No, but I was looking at a dose 
of time at Jacqueline and she 

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has a lot of old Patek perpetual
calendars, some old AP ones and 

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I was just like I they're so 
beautiful because it's just, 

237
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it's just very cool, especially 
from someone who pretty much 

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daily wears like a three hand 
watch, like that's pretty, you 

239
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know, like occasionally I have 
the date, but not that often. 

240
00:13:45,960 --> 00:13:48,360
So I find it really cool 
suddenly. 

241
00:13:48,400 --> 00:13:50,680
Interested in this? 
Yeah, in a way. 

242
00:13:50,680 --> 00:13:54,920
So I've talked about really. 
Seems like it's way up your 

243
00:13:54,920 --> 00:13:58,160
alley when I say it like that. 
It sounded, yeah. 

244
00:13:58,240 --> 00:14:02,080
Yeah. 
Well, no, it didn't sound gross 

245
00:14:02,080 --> 00:14:04,760
until you then called it gross. 
Now it definitely. 

246
00:14:04,760 --> 00:14:07,320
Sounds gross. 
Anyway, moving on. 

247
00:14:07,760 --> 00:14:13,000
The thing is, I do enjoy 
complexity in many different 

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ways, and I enjoy technical 
achievement and technical 

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complexity. 
Yeah. 

250
00:14:18,960 --> 00:14:21,160
So therefore. 
Does all make sense. 

251
00:14:21,200 --> 00:14:29,400
However, I also enjoy like 
really clean, clear, easy to 

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read displays and I really value
that. 

253
00:14:32,680 --> 00:14:36,920
And it takes a really great 
designer to make a perpetual 

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00:14:36,920 --> 00:14:41,200
calendar that you can glance at 
and glean the information that 

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00:14:41,200 --> 00:14:44,440
you want fairly quickly. 
But that's why I like some of 

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00:14:44,440 --> 00:14:47,400
the vintage ones. 
I feel like they're decluttered 

257
00:14:47,400 --> 00:14:52,680
in a way and I think it's really
nice, especially how. 

258
00:14:53,240 --> 00:14:55,440
Long. 
Royal Oak, that. 

259
00:14:56,280 --> 00:14:59,400
It'll take Olivia to get a 
provincial calendar. 

260
00:14:59,400 --> 00:15:01,800
OK. 
But then the question back to 

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you is, would you pick you would
pick perpetual over annual? 

262
00:15:05,800 --> 00:15:09,560
It depends on the watch. 
So the thing about that Omega 

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00:15:09,560 --> 00:15:12,400
Deville, our vision, that's what
I call what's called the Omega 

264
00:15:12,400 --> 00:15:15,280
Deville, our vision annual 
calendar. 

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00:15:15,480 --> 00:15:18,400
And one of the cool things about
that watch was on the sides of 

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00:15:18,400 --> 00:15:21,480
the case, it was sapphire. 
So you can see the movement from

267
00:15:21,480 --> 00:15:22,920
the side. 
I thought that was. 

268
00:15:22,920 --> 00:15:23,880
Pretty cool. 
That was pretty. 

269
00:15:24,040 --> 00:15:28,160
Cool, but the design of the dial
made it look I think dated 

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00:15:28,160 --> 00:15:30,120
already. 
Like now when I look at those 

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00:15:30,120 --> 00:15:33,360
watches they they look like they
were from 10 years ago. 

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00:15:33,920 --> 00:15:39,320
Anyway, the thing about an 
annual calendar is it can just 

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00:15:39,320 --> 00:15:42,960
look like a watch with a date 
because you don't have to see 

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00:15:42,960 --> 00:15:46,280
the month in order to set it and
not all annual calendars tell 

275
00:15:46,280 --> 00:15:51,680
you the month. 
So that one specifically, it 

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00:15:51,680 --> 00:15:55,240
just had the day. 
Well, here's the thing for me is

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00:15:56,880 --> 00:16:04,000
if if you can't see it and I 
paid extra for no, I'm like, if 

278
00:16:04,040 --> 00:16:06,160
I'm paying extra for it, I want 
to see. 

279
00:16:06,440 --> 00:16:08,920
Wait, so that's why I didn't 
know that yours was an annual 

280
00:16:08,920 --> 00:16:11,400
calendar? 
Because you didn't even know 

281
00:16:11,400 --> 00:16:14,560
what an annual calendar. 
Was but yeah, here's here's what

282
00:16:14,560 --> 00:16:20,280
I really want one of these like,
you know, old royal oats. 

283
00:16:20,520 --> 00:16:27,640
Well, yeah, I know that like an 
old 80s sorry, not Royal Oak AP 

284
00:16:27,640 --> 00:16:31,080
perpetual calendar moon phase. 
I think they're just so clean 

285
00:16:31,080 --> 00:16:33,720
and cool. 
The moon phase looks awesome, 

286
00:16:33,760 --> 00:16:37,640
has the Big Dipper, which is 
super cool right there. 

287
00:16:38,160 --> 00:16:41,280
I love the Big Dipper and the 
Little Dipper, but also they're 

288
00:16:41,280 --> 00:16:44,840
very thin and I find I just 
think that's so cool, huh? 

289
00:16:45,720 --> 00:16:53,000
What's the size of the watch? 
This one is 36mm, so perfect for

290
00:16:53,000 --> 00:16:54,200
me. 
Yeah. 

291
00:16:54,480 --> 00:16:57,440
So I'm I, I, I. 
Think anyone have one for sale I

292
00:16:58,120 --> 00:17:00,840
we have a. 
An immediate buyer? 

293
00:17:00,840 --> 00:17:06,400
No, I am definitely not an 
immediate buyer, but I feel that

294
00:17:06,760 --> 00:17:13,000
this may be, you know, moving 
towards something in the next 3 

295
00:17:13,079 --> 00:17:15,240
watches in. 
The next three watches, I 

296
00:17:15,240 --> 00:17:16,640
thought you were going to say 
three years. 

297
00:17:16,640 --> 00:17:19,160
No, no, no. 
And you're like, then I should 

298
00:17:19,160 --> 00:17:20,800
have known it's more like 3 
months. 

299
00:17:20,800 --> 00:17:24,440
No, it will probably be longer 
than that, but it's also I'm 

300
00:17:24,440 --> 00:17:28,720
very excited about it and I'm 
I'm super excited about secret 

301
00:17:28,720 --> 00:17:32,000
diary of a watch girls and I 
have definitely been looking up.

302
00:17:32,000 --> 00:17:33,440
There's a lot of cool Da 
Vinci's. 

303
00:17:33,440 --> 00:17:35,600
Hers is ceramic, so it's like 
ultra special. 

304
00:17:35,600 --> 00:17:38,920
There were like 40 of them made,
but the gold 1, the gold Da 

305
00:17:38,920 --> 00:17:43,000
Vinci perpetual calendars are 
more readily available and 

306
00:17:43,000 --> 00:17:47,240
they're also beautiful too. 
So it's happening I guess. 

307
00:17:47,320 --> 00:17:50,120
You'll have to see. 
Let us know what you think. 

308
00:17:50,120 --> 00:17:53,000
Would you go perpetual, annual, 
or neither? 

309
00:17:54,760 --> 00:17:55,800
Or just calendar.
